Is the blue and/or red wire connected to the harness right now?
If it is, disconnect it and see how many Ω?
If it is, disconnect it and see how many Ω?
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Yam_Tech314's official build thread
- Thread starter G_YamTech_314
- Start date
I'm gettin ready to call it a night myself. Your bike will still be there tomorrow.
This might make things easier.
And since you have a bit of a bitsa... what with a '76 bike and a replacemet '78 harness, you're gonna be doing some changes. This power distribution is for a '78.... your harness. The easiest way to go might be to wire the bike to match the harness.
And here's how the safety relay works. Disregard the red jumper wire all the way to the left. I did that for someone/something else.
Study these and the one GLJ posted above and hopefully you'll get a better understanding of how you need to set things up.
And here's how the safety relay works. Disregard the red jumper wire all the way to the left. I did that for someone/something else.
Study these and the one GLJ posted above and hopefully you'll get a better understanding of how you need to set things up.
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Alright... I get a resistance of 3.5Ω when I measure between red/white and blue/white. So it passes THAT test.
I was smart enough to put my battery on the tender last night so I knew I'd get good results when testing today.
I'm thinking next step may be trying to diag this safety relay.
I was smart enough to put my battery on the tender last night so I knew I'd get good results when testing today.
I'm thinking next step may be trying to diag this safety relay.
Attachments
Go to the red/white wire at the solenoid. With it connected, turn the key on and see if you get 12v there.
If you get 12v, it means the safety relay is passing power along to the solenoid... like it's supposed to.
If you read no voltage, then start working your way back to the safety relay.
If you get 12v, it means the safety relay is passing power along to the solenoid... like it's supposed to.
If you read no voltage, then start working your way back to the safety relay.
Further more, when I connect a jumper from the negative side of the battery to the blue white at the solenoid with key on, I get the starter to crank. So the only thing not working is the grounding function of the button itself.
I'm getting closer. Does the switch have a ground that I'm missing somewhere??
I'm getting closer. Does the switch have a ground that I'm missing somewhere??
Remember, the handlebars are mounted (risers actually) in rubber dampeners, so the bars are not grounded.
So the path for start button ground is....
Across the start switch itself and grounds to the switch housing.
The right switch housing grounds to the handlebars.... and across the bars to the left switch housing.
There's a black ground wire in the left switch that goes into the headlight buckets and is connected to a ground terminal there.
I have good continuity all the way through the blue/white wire. Checked that in case there was a broken wire in the harness somehow (you never know) I did the same thing with the red/white wire. Both are good.
I also checked to make sure the button produced a beep with my meter when compressed. It does. So I'm really not sure why it isn't workin.
Is there any kind of safety switch on this ole girl that would prevent it from turning over? The bike is in neutral on its center stand. There aren't any clutch lockout switches on it, and even if there was a neutral switch I am in neutral.
I also checked to make sure the button produced a beep with my meter when compressed. It does. So I'm really not sure why it isn't workin.
Is there any kind of safety switch on this ole girl that would prevent it from turning over? The bike is in neutral on its center stand. There aren't any clutch lockout switches on it, and even if there was a neutral switch I am in neutral.
Sumbitch... It was me.. I was the problem...
The starter button works alright. When the killswitch is IN THE OFF POSITION.
So I have that fucker wired wrong. Not the button. What a learning experience
The starter button works alright. When the killswitch is IN THE OFF POSITION.
So I have that fucker wired wrong. Not the button. What a learning experience
It still only functions when I use a jumper from the switch directly to the ground wire though. I'll have to figure it out from here but at least I know it works.
So basically... If my bars are painted... I'm gonna have a bad time.
Yep. You'll need to sand a bit of paint off the bars directly under the switches so the housings make contact with each other.
Or run a ground wire to the right switch.
This shit is hard.
I took a break from trying to get the motor to crank with the button and moved over to the other side to try and get the horn to work. I continuity tested the black wire to the bare metal on the bars verify good ground. I have that now. I also continuity tested the pink wire to be sure it went to the horn. It does. I plugged everything in and the horn will click but will not sound. It will sound when hooked directly to the battery...
My turn signal relay also clicks when hitting the horn button... So something is definitely still very wrong and I'm definitely in over my head. I will figure this out. But it's gonna take a lot more than a little head scratching.
Here's the '76 and '78 diagrams. You're just gonna need to figure out which one to wire your bike up as, print that one out, and go through it wire by wire, checking continuity until everything's matched.
If you don't follow some sort of logical plan, you'll just go nuts.
If you don't follow some sort of logical plan, you'll just go nuts.
Is it normal for the turn signal. Relay to click when you turn the key on and off??? Something isn't right here and I still don't know what. But I'm starting to feel like I'm chasing a ghost. Considering all possibilities.
