A suggestion: resist the urge to clip those extra wires off until everything's wired and working correctly. They ain't hurtin' anything jus' hangin' out.
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Yam_Tech314's official build thread
- Thread starter G_YamTech_314
- Start date
The lights checker is one a Yamaha engineer must've come up with during a bad night's sleep. At the cost of several miles of additional wiring, this wonderful gizmo monitors your dipped beam and if that fails, it switched the main beam on for you. First sign the dipped filament has blown is when all the lorries coming towards you put their full bank of lights ON . . .
Interesting. Sounds like a blast lol.
I have everything working on both switches EXCEPT the headlight. I can't remember if it only comes on when the bike is running or not. I also may have to switch two of the wires going to the light checker. Since my wiring colors are different I had a 50/50 shot at getting it right.
IIRC The 78 had the headlight come on when the engine starts WHICH THE 76 didn’t have. I bought a 77 that a PO had installed a later switch and had an extra amount of wires added to make it work. I replaced the switch with the correct one and had to sort out the mess. Which RH control are you using?
I BELIEVE the controls both left and right are 1978 compatible .. I had a super hard time finding remanufactured parts for a 76. I think that's why I bought the "wrong ones" they match the ones that came on the bike when I got it because there was a 78 (or later) front end put on it at some point in its life.
I have all the right colors on this diagram... The only wires that don't have a home are Y/B, L/Y and Y/R
I've traced the diagram on each wire coming from the dimmer switch and they do not show up anywhere on the diagram. This is why I was led to believe they werent needed. I don't get any power to the headlight socket on either of the wires (green or yellow) I've got good ground for sure. I'm THINKING that ONE of the wires into each switch need to be receiving 12v otherwise nothing will work. My RH switch (Lights on/off switch specifically) looks to have more wires in it than what my diagram shows... "On" position I can physically see a white with yellow tracer wire, and a blue wire. The "off" side shows a red/yellow tracer and a blue wire as well.
Im kinda lost in this part specifically.
I've traced the diagram on each wire coming from the dimmer switch and they do not show up anywhere on the diagram. This is why I was led to believe they werent needed. I don't get any power to the headlight socket on either of the wires (green or yellow) I've got good ground for sure. I'm THINKING that ONE of the wires into each switch need to be receiving 12v otherwise nothing will work. My RH switch (Lights on/off switch specifically) looks to have more wires in it than what my diagram shows... "On" position I can physically see a white with yellow tracer wire, and a blue wire. The "off" side shows a red/yellow tracer and a blue wire as well.
Im kinda lost in this part specifically.
Try drawing a diagram yourself of what you want to happen - power from ignition to lights on/off to dip switch to one/other side on the headlamp bulb. Then see what colours you have in & out of those switches. Its the logic that matters, not the colours, If you can't match the colours then at least note them, but following the logic will get everything working.
Im tryin! I've learned a ton these last two days. I'm up for the challenge. I'm just not sure exactly HOW the on/off and dimmer switch work. I know more about the dimmer switch than the on/off. The dimmer is just switching power from the low filament to the high filament. So no worries there. However, I'm not sure where it's supposed to be getting it's power from.
Follow the squares I colored in.
Power to the lights comes from the ignition sw. (red squares). That leads to the headlight sw.
From there it goes to the dimmer sw. (blue squares).
The dimmer sw. splits and it either comes out the yellow, high beam, or the green, low beam wire.
Power to the lights comes from the ignition sw. (red squares). That leads to the headlight sw.
From there it goes to the dimmer sw. (blue squares).
The dimmer sw. splits and it either comes out the yellow, high beam, or the green, low beam wire.
Thanks Jim... That helped me out a ton. After looking closer. And closer. And even closer, I noticed on the diagrams that the L/G and L/Y wires were responsible for supplying power to the dimmer switch. I checked my on off switch with a voltmeter to ensure I had power going to it in the on position. But NOT in the off position. I alligator claimed everything together to verify I was on the right track before cutting and splicing, and BAM. Everything worked. Hi/Lo... Horn... Starter... On/off... Flashers front and back... BRAKE LIGHT....
We now just need a way to get a rear pedal brake light switch working for a rear disc set up, (I think I already have the parts for it...) the rest of the hardware needed to secure my headlight to the bucket, and a set of gauges and this thing will be ready for the street (minus a paint job)
So glad the worst of this is done and it's now onto bigger better things...
Funny how fast I wanna get it done when it's time to ride and I sold my only ridable bike huh?
We now just need a way to get a rear pedal brake light switch working for a rear disc set up, (I think I already have the parts for it...) the rest of the hardware needed to secure my headlight to the bucket, and a set of gauges and this thing will be ready for the street (minus a paint job)
So glad the worst of this is done and it's now onto bigger better things...
Funny how fast I wanna get it done when it's time to ride and I sold my only ridable bike huh?
Here's the pics of the set up Ive come up with!
I've been trying throughout my whole build not to chop anything off of the frame, but there's some chunky obsolete brackets that honestly might have to go. The seat hits them and they will quickly tear the fabric of my $400 seat...
I can still do more to clean up the wiring even further but today was all about making everything work in full.
Next step is a cluster, new speedo and tach cables, and a brake light switch fix for the rear pedal.
I've been trying throughout my whole build not to chop anything off of the frame, but there's some chunky obsolete brackets that honestly might have to go. The seat hits them and they will quickly tear the fabric of my $400 seat...
I can still do more to clean up the wiring even further but today was all about making everything work in full.
Next step is a cluster, new speedo and tach cables, and a brake light switch fix for the rear pedal.
Attachments
Got me a nice set of gauges from a fellow member here. I'm going through each wire on the diagram to map things out and test each light to confirm proper wires. I'm wondering... When these were new and people were first doing the 78 and newer front end conversion to the 76's... What else did they have to add? Are the headlight and tail light failure lamps wired to the light checker? Or to the reserve lighting? If I recall correctly, my 76 doesn't have reserve lighting module... The turn signals, neutral light, high beam light, etc. Have been figured out. I'm now just hoping to sort out the center portion of the lights on the cluster.
Yes. I'm in my laundry room... It's the closest room to the bike and it's warm and dry in here HAHA
Yes. I'm in my laundry room... It's the closest room to the bike and it's warm and dry in here HAHA
Attachments
Get rid of the headlight warning light and finagle a volt meter in there.here's one replaced the stop lamp failure bulb
I DO like that idea a lot .. where might I find one that'll fit in that spot?
here's one replaced the stop lamp failure bulb
View attachment 347876
all them little chinese voltmeters fit if you trim off the ears.
Ah found it here you go
https://www.xs650.com/threads/voltmeters-and-usb-ports-howd-you-do-it.48243/
Ah found it here you go
https://www.xs650.com/threads/voltmeters-and-usb-ports-howd-you-do-it.48243/
Made a lot of really nice progress on the ole Yamaha today since the weather was so nice. I'd still love to finish wiring up the gauge cluster but it's really proving how much I still have to learn about electrical.
I mounted all of my turn signals, got my gauges mounted, every light on the bike works aside from the gauge lighting... I thought I'd take it one simple step at a time and work through them all... My hi beam light SHOULD work, but doesn't. (It works when bench testing but somehow my wiring skills are failing even this small task.
I skipped it and moved onto turn signal light in the gauge wiring... I can get ONE SIDE to work but not both. No matter what I seem to try I can either have independently working signals and NO gauge indicator function OR I get both left and right to work with the switches on the gauge but ALL of my flashers blink simultaneously... I've studied and studied and studied the diagram and cannot figure out what im doin wrong. All help will be greatly appreciated.
Theory tells me I should be able to treat that gauge signal light as a third signal (front, middle, rear) but if that's wrong then boy no wonder I'm so lost haha
In other news, I finally caved and cut off the seat tabs on the frame... Didn't wanna... But I wasn't really willing to do damage to the seat I paid $400 for
The touch up paint job isn't my greatest work .. but that's what happens when you decide to chop stuff off after painting it all. Funny how my mind changed so much over the years.
I mounted all of my turn signals, got my gauges mounted, every light on the bike works aside from the gauge lighting... I thought I'd take it one simple step at a time and work through them all... My hi beam light SHOULD work, but doesn't. (It works when bench testing but somehow my wiring skills are failing even this small task.
I skipped it and moved onto turn signal light in the gauge wiring... I can get ONE SIDE to work but not both. No matter what I seem to try I can either have independently working signals and NO gauge indicator function OR I get both left and right to work with the switches on the gauge but ALL of my flashers blink simultaneously... I've studied and studied and studied the diagram and cannot figure out what im doin wrong. All help will be greatly appreciated.
Theory tells me I should be able to treat that gauge signal light as a third signal (front, middle, rear) but if that's wrong then boy no wonder I'm so lost haha
In other news, I finally caved and cut off the seat tabs on the frame... Didn't wanna... But I wasn't really willing to do damage to the seat I paid $400 for
The touch up paint job isn't my greatest work .. but that's what happens when you decide to chop stuff off after painting it all. Funny how my mind changed so much over the years.
Attachments
SO.
If I go Ch to B(ground) and Dg to Dg (for proper signal function, then my indicator light will work but ONLY with my right turn signals... Switching the DG from the gauges to the Ch on the harness side and then hitting the left hand switch will make the light function during the LH function. So obviously it works, but how do I make it work with BOTH.
If I go Ch to B(ground) and Dg to Dg (for proper signal function, then my indicator light will work but ONLY with my right turn signals... Switching the DG from the gauges to the Ch on the harness side and then hitting the left hand switch will make the light function during the LH function. So obviously it works, but how do I make it work with BOTH.
