Yam_Tech314's official build thread

[G_YamTech_314]

The holes seemed pretty well deburred to me. The discs looked prepped well and everything like that, the only thing I noticed now is uneven shine on them.

When I test rode new bikes an older tech taught me to count to five on A firm brake grab in like 2nd or 3rd gear to help seat the brakes for the customer so it actually stopped when they left the dealership. I did this on the XS650 and now, with the 180 miles down, it still squeals just as bad. It's either the uneven surface of the rotors, or a pad-in-caliper issue. It sat for a long time before getting ridden for real so I'm sure they could use a tear down and lubing. Will try all that I can and report back haha

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Also, I realized I never Answered you about the carb settings that I finally went with. It's 2.5 turns out for each. I went one more half turn out, and heard an increase in idle. Then I went ANOTHER half turn out and observed no change. I then went back to 2.5 on both and then fiddled with them just a tad to smooth out the idle. The last step was adjusting the idle speed. It has better 1/4 throttle response now, doesn't pop on decel, and only had one weird "hiccup" on a slow left hand turn at 2k rpm that I couldn't seem to recreate (I suspect the bike was still kinda cold after one of my test stops) I'm sure some minor changes could still be made but it's really pretty good now. It even feels like it has more power than it did the day before yesterday. I'm debating riding it to work this morning haha.

 

[5twins]

Going in half turns to adjust and set the mix screws is pretty big steps. I only go in 1/4 turns, reducing that to 1/8 turns when I get close. I noticed your headpipes are turning colors? If they are the original double wall pipes, they shouldn't do that unless you're running really hot (lean). So, maybe you could use a step up on the pilots. That should also reduce the number of turns out you need on the mix screws a little.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

So, maybe you could use a step up on the pilots. That should also reduce the number of turns out you need on the mix screws a little.

I do believe I mentioned this earlier on

I suppose it's all a part of the process lol

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Took a break from all the riding and tuning and blah blah blah so I could focus on the points that still need addressed for legal roadworthiness. I present to you all: Super Sloppy and Primitive Fender/Tail Tidy/Rear Light Bracket Assembly! It went from the flat steel and sharpie marks I shared earlier to a fully functional (mountable) prototype!

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Here's some better angles

 

[46th Georgia]

Here's some better anglesView attachment 350440View attachment 350441

I like our roadworthiness test better. Until the man sees something illegal, you're good.

 

[5twins]

I suggest 4 bolting the plate on, and with a sheet of rubber between it and the bracket (section of old inner tube would work).

 

[Raymond]

I suggest 4 bolting the plate on, and with a sheet of rubber between it and the bracket (section of old inner tube would work).

Good suggestion - them XS650 vibes might not bother you but they will eventually fracture anything you bolt to the bike.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Good suggestion - them XS650 vibes might not bother you but they will eventually fracture anything you bolt to the bike.

That's an excellent suggestion. The holes I'm using are for the original rear fender mount. I was hoping there were some grommets that I could get for those holes as well but it looks like the grommets ride in the rear fender itself. I'll certainly be doing something to lessen the shock to the bracket.

I like our roadworthiness test better. Until the man sees something illegal, you're good.

This has been doing just fine for me so far... And I'm not going to stop riding the bike with or without inspection stickers being present... I'm registered and insured so that's enough from my eyes... But the challenge of having a motorcycle that's got every box checked for state inspection intrigues me. Especially since I am a licensed motorcycle inspector for the state of PA. Just feels wrong not to make it right lol.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Just finished a "practice sync" on the carbs. Had to move the screw about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn to line em up. Kinda felt like a far move but I was turning the wrong way at first so there's that...

I'm going to get longer fuel lines and a "T" splitter to feed both carbs from an auxiliary tank. I tried flipping my tank backwards and using the really short fuel lines with very little success so I don't exactly trust my results.

Oh! And @Wingedwheel... I am going to have to do something about that darn throttle spring hitting the nipple. It misses the brass, but hits the edge of the hose when installed... So another test will be necessary anyways. The new sync gauges work well though. I was going to make a cheapo manometer but quickly changed my mind when I looked at the CB900 behind the XS650... plus I know for a fact I'll lose pieces to something man made LOL.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

I also diag'd my headlight failure (I think) both bulbs I have in my possession are spent. I don't hear a typical rattle when shaking em, and I can't see an obviously burn element on either of them, but neither work when I plugged em in... Furthermore: I get 10.6 volts to the green wire. And when high beam switch is actuated, each wire splits 12v. So I get 6 at each. I assume this is because both high and low beam elements light up when high is on.

I also had a friend at work tell me his dad was a bike tech in the 80s for awhile and the first sign of bad brushes on the alternator for the XS's was usually a finicky headlight. This true? And if my diagnosis is correct, then what's the best bulb replacement you all like to use?

 

[Wingedwheel]

I replaced my bulbs with LED’s. You can order a cheap H4 headlamp shell and use an LED headlamp bulb. I just replaced mine after about 3 yrs when it started flickering then wouldn’t light. Probably due to vibration but everything on the bike is subject to that. On those gauges, You can check the sync with a vacuum brake bleeder you just have to use a T to pump down two at a time and if they don’t match you adjust with the small screw on the face. If you want to sync more than two you just move one hose over and do the next in line and so on. Even a small difference on those gauges will mess up your carb sync.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

On those gauges, You can check the sync with a vacuum brake bleeder you just have to use a T to pump down two at a time and if they don’t match you adjust with the small screw on the face. If you want to sync more than two you just move one hose over and do the next in line and so on. Even a small difference on those gauges will mess up your carb sync.

I'm the reading this comment over and over to try and wrap my head around it... I don't quite follow... I was always taught that you let the bike get to operating temp and while the bike is running you need to meter the flow at the gauges with the dampening screws to see an accurate reading (less needle jump)

Then you whack the throttle and let em slap closed and recheck your sync on the gauges. Opening and closing the dampener screws a few times.

Are you saying your method doesn't involve the bike to be turned on? I guess I'm just confused as to what you're "pumping down" Lol I'm really trying here to follow that but I'm tired as hell and losing it more by the minute.

 

[Wingedwheel]

I use a brake vacuum bleeder pump to pull equal pressure on the gauges. One of these.
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-63391.html
Doesn’t involve the bike at all but will put equal vacuum on the gauges for testing/sync

 

[Wingedwheel]

It has nothing to do with the bike. Just makes sure the gauges are synced before using them.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

I fully understand hahaha I was like... Wait how??? You're saying that your way just ensures uniform function of the gauges PRIOR to putting them on the bike. Makes complete sense now. And also sounds like a pretty solid idea.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Going in half turns to adjust and set the mix screws is pretty big steps. I only go in 1/4 turns, reducing that to 1/8 turns when I get close. I noticed your headpipes are turning colors? If they are the original double wall pipes, they shouldn't do that unless you're running really hot (lean). So, maybe you could use a step up on the pilots. That should also reduce the number of turns out you need on the mix screws a little.

Had the bike out today. Rode it to work and back. Then some more just for fun. I definitely need to enrich the carbs still... Plugs are snow white after my evening ride and about two minutes of idling once I got home. There was a lot of decel popping and it was hiccuping a lot at 2500-3500 rpm's I've considered going up a size in the main and seeing what happens, but that kinda feels like a mistake. Perhaps the pilot needs a notch UP first... Then back to the 1.5 turns out on the mixture screw until I can fiddle with it and get stuff dialed back in.

Also, I was wrong about the headlight bulbs. I found a poor connection in the wiring in the bucket and corrected it. I am once again one step closer to passable state inspection.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

I also did a compression test for fun. The difference in compression is because I didn't feel like kicking anymore... I could probably get a little higher numbers out of both cylinders, but that'll be another day when I do a leak down test too and feel like recording it all. With how good the bike pulls, and all other factors considered... It has plenty of compression and chamber sealing lol

 

[Raymond]

Those are good numbers.