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win some, lose some -- 1971 XS1B
- Thread starter DogBunny
- Start date
All great ideas on the stuck motor, but my personality is tending towards Gary's. I'm probably going to go ahead with the fancy store-bought jack screw. It has a swivel head, will be used on multiple motors, maybe will find other uses for it, and for $30 I just like it. Going to give it 24 hours, and then I'll buy it.
As for the piece of steel: I live 2 miles from an excellent metal supply house. They have a "drop" area (remnants) that they sell by the pound. I'll see what they have. Most likely will just be a thick plate that spans 4 studs.
As for the piece of steel: I live 2 miles from an excellent metal supply house. They have a "drop" area (remnants) that they sell by the pound. I'll see what they have. Most likely will just be a thick plate that spans 4 studs.
Pictures, old bud!
Funny I had you as the kind of guy (me) that has a pile "of too good to toss" scrap iron....
Funny I had you as the kind of guy (me) that has a pile "of too good to toss" scrap iron....
I do have a bin of scrap iron, but since I don't weld, it's not extensive, and mostly small stuff.
I started with ATF/acetone poured through the spark plug holes. I lost confidence in it after just a few days, and took the head off so that I could clean the mixture out and move on to vinegar. A crust develops on the surface of the vinegar. In the pic, I have broken up the crust with my finger. The crust is black iron oxide??? Shouldn't that sink instead of float?
The vinegar really cleaned up the piston top and the cylinder nice after just a couple of days. I periodically sponged it out and refreshed it over two weeks. Every time the crust would re-form after 24 hours. Which is weird, because everything looked pretty clean and rust-free by then. So what is the crust really, and where is it coming from?
After two weeks, I lost confidence in the vinegar. I had a little left over ATF/acetone mix, so I went back to it.
More importantly, I added the 1/2" PVC spacers shown to the studs. A 2M idea, he said they wouldn't harm the jugs. This allows me to torque on the crank in both directions. Being able to move the pistons upwards is especially logical to me, as it means that I am moving the piston into an area of the bore that is "clean" by virtue of the vinegar eliminating the rust.
It's been like this for a week. I'm about to switch back to the vinegar.
I started with ATF/acetone poured through the spark plug holes. I lost confidence in it after just a few days, and took the head off so that I could clean the mixture out and move on to vinegar. A crust develops on the surface of the vinegar. In the pic, I have broken up the crust with my finger. The crust is black iron oxide??? Shouldn't that sink instead of float?
The vinegar really cleaned up the piston top and the cylinder nice after just a couple of days. I periodically sponged it out and refreshed it over two weeks. Every time the crust would re-form after 24 hours. Which is weird, because everything looked pretty clean and rust-free by then. So what is the crust really, and where is it coming from?
After two weeks, I lost confidence in the vinegar. I had a little left over ATF/acetone mix, so I went back to it.
More importantly, I added the 1/2" PVC spacers shown to the studs. A 2M idea, he said they wouldn't harm the jugs. This allows me to torque on the crank in both directions. Being able to move the pistons upwards is especially logical to me, as it means that I am moving the piston into an area of the bore that is "clean" by virtue of the vinegar eliminating the rust.
It's been like this for a week. I'm about to switch back to the vinegar.
So, my fancy $45 of custom ratchet straps arrived (see post #9). Bought 5, could only fit up 4. These are what's called endless straps, or bundling straps -- look it up -- and you can't just go to HF or Lowe's for them. Now I know what I should have bought. I thought the wider, the better, in order to distribute forces, but the problem is the wide straps don't conform to the sloping tank. I should have ordered nine 1" endless ratchet straps.
In order to keep the too-wide straps from slipping off the sloping tank, I had to wire them to each other.
In any case, It was very easy to close up the sprung tank a little. It's far from perfect, but the main thing is that I got the distance between the damper locators where they should be, so the tank mounts up good. There was a little buckling at the front top of the tunnel, as the pic shows. Looking at my before pics, I think the beginnings of this buckling were already there, but I made it worse. Nothing that can't be fixed with a shrinking hammer and some Bondo. Far from perfect, but with some body work and paint, once mounted, no one should be able to tell anything is wrong with it.
Well that's another rare tank saved from the scrap pile.
I've just looked at the pictures of your stuck pistons, and those barrels are the rare early type for the four bolt type chain tensioner .
Worth making an effort to save even if the pistons and liners are scrap.
I suspect that you'll end up having to sacrifice that piston in order to save the crank and barrels.
I think that I might try carving away the piston with a die grinder, until there isn't enough piston left to grip the bore
I've just looked at the pictures of your stuck pistons, and those barrels are the rare early type for the four bolt type chain tensioner .
Worth making an effort to save even if the pistons and liners are scrap.
I suspect that you'll end up having to sacrifice that piston in order to save the crank and barrels.
I think that I might try carving away the piston with a die grinder, until there isn't enough piston left to grip the bore
Kinda.I also split my tank right at the top front of the tunnel using air to pop a dent.
Curious if the tank were restrained before pressurizing what the outcome would be.
Has anyone done this? If I had an old tank I'd give it a try.
I used my bench vise to close the tunnel back up and soldered the split.
Still trying to save the piston, just to see if it can be done. Am now using PB Blaster. Several times a day I whack the piston top with a 3-pound hand sledge on a wood block, 100 hits at a time, probably at least 500 whacks a day. Done in an effort to get the penetrating fluid to infinitesimally
penetrate a little bit more each time.
Waiting for my fancy jack screw to arrive from India, and then I'll get serious. I have a couple of ideas regarding using the jack screw
That is an excellent idea. Put straps on the outside of the tank. Block the tunnel area of the tank -- there are a few ways this could be done. Then pressurize.
Your vise must be huge.
