Here's a file I put togehter from sev websites
Thought you might use it.
Tank Swap to xs750 or 850 STANDARD
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Mounting an XS750 tank on an XS650
« Thread Started on Jan 24, 2008, 7:18pm »
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When I first started researching this conversion I had a HECK of a time finding detailed information on how to do it. I emailed several people and got a few replies, but no one had pics and most of the info I got was along the lines of "It's easy, you'll figure it out once you start".
I vowed that when I did mount my XS750 tank I would document the procedure and put it out there for all future Cafe' Racers! So, here goes nothing.....
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First thing, strip the old tank and seat off. You'll notice that the 650's have a "cup" on the frame that faces towards the rear of the bike and a rubber bumper on the tank. This is reversed on the 750's, with the "cup" on the tank and a bumper on the frame.
We used a cold chisel to knock off the cup from the frame.
This image is reduced by 57%, click it to view full size.
This image is reduced by 57%, click it to view full size.
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Next, we trial fitted the tank and noticed that the rubber bumpers for the 750 tank will need to be mounted much higher than the original position of the 650 cups. In these pics, you can see where we ground down the weld marks for the cups and mounted the rubber bumpers.
We used a Sharpie to mark the position of the bumpers while the tank was mocked up. I used lag screws and a washer inside the bumper to mount it. We drilled a pilot hole and then screwed the bumpers on.
I found that the rubber bumpers from the 650 worked a little better. There is a slight difference in the bumpers on a 750 and a 650. This is what worked best for me.
This image is reduced by 57%, click it to view full size.
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At this point, we noticed that the tab on the frame that normally holds the side covers on was interfering with the rear of the tank. Out came the cold chisel and grinder and off they went. You can see where they originally were, right in front of the red tie-down strap.
Also, you'll notice that we used the rear rubber mount from the 750 tank. I believe that the 650 mount would have worked just as well.
This image is reduced by 57%, click it to view full size.
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Next came making the rear of the tank fit on the frame properly. I've been told that you just have to bend the rear mounting tab down but, after taking a big rubber mallet to it, we saw that we needed to cut a notch in the tab on the tank in order to get it to bend up far enough.
This image is reduced by 57%, click it to view full size.
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Now we were able to get the rear mounted properly. Sorry, my camera takes crappy close-ups.
This image is reduced by 57%, click it to view full size.
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And here's a shot from the front of the tank showing the cups/rubber bumper mount on the frame. Again, sorry for the blurry pics.
This image is reduced by 57%, click it to view full size.
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This is how it looks fully mounted and with my Omars Narrow Cafe Fender mocked up. I'm glad we didn't mount the fender yet because it needs to be moved back quite a bit to fit the 750 tank properly. If we had followed the instructions that came with the fender, the tank would have never fit.
This image is reduced by 57%, click it to view full size.
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Xs1100 tank????
It won't fit. The XS1100 has a double backbone, so the tank has a very wide tunnel. You want a XS750/850 tank.
Marty (in Georgia)
PETCOCKS
Re: gas tanks & petcocks
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- youve probably got a vacuum operated petcock...78-84 North Am 650's have, as original, vacuum operated petcocks linked to the intake-carb holder or boot
- these leak and are a pain to repair
- better to get a non-vacuum earlier style petcock and blank off the vacuum source
The pipe pointing toward the center of the bike is the gas outlet. The pipe pointed toward the front is the vacuum inlet. The vacuum for it comes from the barb on the left intake. The carbs are joined by a T one gas like feeds both. The reserve comes from two lengths of pipe inside the tank. When gas gets below a certain level it can't get into the first pipe and you must switch to reserve to route gas from the second pipe.
Make sure the right hand vacuum barb is capped off.
If you go with an aftermarket standard petcock you can link the two barbs together with a bit of vacuum line.
If I have a spotless tank (acid etched and bare metal inside, NO rust), clean carbs and a pair of good, non-vacuum, early style petcocks with the internal filters....why would I need inline filters between the petcocks and carbs?
The mesh on the internal filters is good and very fine. I'm contemplating not running external filters. Thoughts?
FuelFilters
- if youre running ethanol gas and not keeping the tank 100 percent full then you will get rust ... can you guarrantee the quality of any gas at all petrol stations you stop at ? ... can you see your internal filters ? and be certain theyre not compromised ?
- in line filters are cheap insurance ... once youve had to strip down your carbs to clean your pilot circuits once or twice you will see the light
--I have the little square fuel filter one from mikesxs. It's in between the carbs, right above the "T", under the top bracket. My line then comes from the filter, between the bracket and follows the frame up to the tank. Although I do have a single petcock and pods.
And I agree, the filter does not need to be up-right, but there is an inlet and outlet to som
--I've run inline filters just behind the petcocks on the standards. On one I tucked them under the butterfly brace but had to take 1/8" off the inside of the brace to get them to fit.
On the specials I gave up on fighting the "T" length and filter length and followed another members idea of turning the "T" to the bottom requires more tubing but it is oh so much easier.
--Yep, 'T' turned down. The filter is visible but I can watch it fill when I turn on the manual petcock and also see if there's any debris in there. Makes removing the tank a two minute job...max.
--I use the 90 degree filters from 650central.com. The 90 degree feature makes for easy installation.
--Don't be concerned about air showing up in your filters. I quite often see air in mine, but I consider it normal...................causes no problems.
--I got some of those 90 degree filters from the local bike shop when I was putting together my XS750. It too had the dual petcocks. Another trick that worked well on that bike was to run the fuel hoses to the opposite side (left petcock fed right carb inlet, and vise versa). That gave it a bit more slack to position the filters and made it easier to pull the tank.
--- Re: Where do you put the fuel filters?
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got the at local bike shop almost 5 bucks each but z1enterprises.com has em for 2.70 each
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Charlie
