What level of mechanical know how and tools do I need to replace my cam chain guide

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vdubplate

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What level of mechanical know how and tools do I need to replace my cam chain guide. I just changed out my sump filter and saw that a very large piece of what I believe is part of my cam chain guide was trying to pass through the filter.

I'm thinking of trying to dislodge my motor for the first time, get a gasket set and take the top off in search of the cam chain guide. I was hoping you guy could give me a heads up on some of the pitfalls i might run into that would put me in over my head.

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Mechanic level 3.
A service manual.
A set of combo wrenchs.
Socket set.
Torque wrench.
Feeler gauges.
A hoist of some kind, back, pipe and straps, come along or ..............
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feeler_gauge
You will use the feeler gauges to set the valves going back together.
And a few other things while the head/jugs are off depending on how much you want to know.
I may have made to little of the job, bump to 5 out of 10.
You may also consider elephant foot adjusters while in there.
Now you can bump the job factor to 7. Grinding the rocker arms would make me nervous.
Not saying it can't be done. But it does require more thought than say..sweeping the floor.
 
Hi vdub watch this it will give you a chance to see whats involved
After i shot this video below 5twins told me that I should have put the cam chain guide in the jugs before I put the jugs back on.This so you can make sure that the guide is centered top and bottom. it can be put on at a slight angle"not good". So I tooh it back apart and sure enuff it was at a small angle. I centered it and reassembled.
Engine back together and running
good luck with the job it's not hard to do.
 
Thanks guys. I'm just trying to figure out weather I can fix this by reading or posting what problems I'm having in order to work my way through the problems. I wanted to gauge weather or not I will have to spend the cold cash to get it done or figure out if I can do it myself. I have the time and patience but if I'm up against a task that is going to throw situations my way where I'm not going to be able to troubleshoot the problems then I will be be in a tough spot. I can read a manual and I can read a manual so we will see how far that gets you I guess. :). I'll check out those videos and see where my confidence level is at. I guess you have to start somewhere right?

@ I am carbon: Thanks for taking the time to send those videos. I appreciate it
 
vdub yw. there are some great guys here to help you through your problems. video have help me when i've needed help. i've shown them and I get an answer from someone. and I have asked a couple good ones :D. . any way we are here for each other. they got me threw my barn find 'no lie a barn" to a top end rebuild and now my everyday ride. Ed
 
Thanks guys. I watched all these videos before I went to work this morning. They were a big help. I appreciate you posting them. I'll prob take the plunge and see how far I get in the next couple weeks.
 
A couple things come to mind on engine removal. Once all attachments are removed, I disconnect all motor mounts 'cept for the bottom......then tilt the motor forward and take the carbs off, then remove the last mount bolt. Engine comes out easier on the left side due to the starter setting lower on the right.
The oil feed tube.....hold the lower connector on the case tight with one wrench and turn the chrome upper connector off with another.....seen a few twisted oil tubes where this wasn't done. You can leave the oil tube attached to the top end if it wasn't leaking at those banjo bolts......otherwise be prepared to replace some copper washers and MIND ALL TORQUE SPECS. You'll be fine.
 
Personally, I would run the thing for a while. Do a couple quick oil changes, like at 3 to 500 miles, and check the filters each time. Get a feel for how it runs and discover if there's any odd ticking noises that can't be adjusted away. I rode mine for 2 seasons and about 4 or 5K before I tore into it. By then it had developed a pronounced ticking at start-up that went away after 30 seconds or so. Turned out to be the rubber strip on the front guide half unglued and flapping until oil got circulating and quieted it down.
 
@5twins: I was thinking of running it for most of the summer and then doing the overhaul in the winter if I dont have metal shavings or anything out of the ordinary.

Do you guys have a good torque wrench you would recommend that isn't a small fortune.
 
I recently replaced min for the very same reason. 5twins has a good point, but after extracting my chain guide, the whole plastic buffer separated from the aluminum with the slightest of fingernail pressure. In my case, I'm glad I replaced it now versus later.

BTW, Powersportsplus.com has the guide priced around 48 bucks and it took about 10 days to get it.
 
So when someone says he has rebuilt a motor what is the typical process for doing this?
So you would replace anything thats broken, Replace all the gaskets, possibly bolts an washers where needed. Clean the thing. What am I missing? Also here comes the noob question. What type of tool do I need to check compression. Do you test your compression before you rip into the motor and then check after to see if there is a difference? I guess the manual will tell you what the pressure should be.
 
Head and base gaskets, top end o-ring kit, top end copper washers and a chain guide is minimum. In my case all of the above, plus valve guide seals, piston rings, cylinders honed and valves lapped. Close to 3 bills for all that. If you have a high miler, throw in a cam chain, too.
 
Get one of those thread it in gauges for the spark plug hole. I did one side at a time having the plug in the one that I wasn't testing....motor in the bike. Kick, kick, kick while holding the throttle wide open. After a few kicks it won't rise any more. Make a note of the pressure and then do the next side.
 
As far as what the compression should be? My runner is 130/135 @ 8-1 compression.......I have a spare motor with 150/155 stock setup and my '77 that had the seized engine was 80/85, it runs and doesn't smoke. So.........
 
I believe I've seen it posted that you don't want a big difference between the 2 readings. My runner when originaly brought home had 110 in the left side and 30 in the right.....scored cylinder and a stripped plug hole.
 

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