bike wiring

This is how I wired the last couple of XS650s that I worked on.


Bracket added for battery and bracket added for regulator. This is a 1973 frame, and I have mounted the solenoid onto one of the existing side cover mounts. The rectifier is mounted, and I am holding an identical one in my hand so that you can see what it looks like.


The mounted rectifier is visible in the top right of this picture. I have mounted a toggle bolt for an ignition switch onto an existing seat tab. Radio Shack sells an excellent, inexpensive toggle switch with a built-in red LED that is rated a hefty 30 amps at 12VDC, part #275-0024




Shorai battery and Advance Auto regulator mounted. Terminal strips mounted.
Shorai specifies their LFX14L5-BS12. It is about 1/3 the weight and half the size of a conventional battery.
The regulator I use is in this thread:
http://xs650temp.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=Charging&action=display&thread=3246


Inline waterproof blade type fuse holder added.


More inline fuses added.
If you go back up to the very first picture, in the lower right I have added a quick disconnect that goes to the brake/tail/license plate lights. This allows the rear fender to be easily removed for tire changes.

Here's a different bike. Wiring is just about identical, except for the placement of the components.


Everything is under the seat.


Existing tabs and mounts used where possible.

Sweet, clean, very tidy, very impressive!

Im jusy wondering about the it with the brat kit, since ill be cutting all of that ^^^ stuff off haha. Looks clean though!

Posted via Mobile

You're still going to have a seat though, right? A full-power Shorai or other lithium-ion battery, or an under-powerd conventional battery will fit under the seat. Even a solo seat on a brat frame (not a hard-tail frame). Everything else can be hidden/distributed throughout the frame.
I will be wiring a friend's brat with solo seat, it's going slow and will be a while, but eventually I'll add it to this thread.

I hope so! Ky battery is 5 1/16hx5 7/8Lx3.5W

Here is where I mounted everything on a hard tail that I recently wired. From the side, the battery is barely visible, everything else is pretty much hidden.
For a while now, I have been using Hong Kong rectifiers instead of the Radio Shack DIY one. The price is about the same as making the Radio Shack one, it is a single-piece unit, and you can get them already with a heat sink. It's in my earlier posts in this thread too.
The horn button is just an automotive dashboard mount-type, pointed down -- a little inconvenient, but it passes inspection. And very easy to wire, being right next to the horn itself and the fuse. The whole circuit took about a foot of wire.


Finished. The expanded metal allows you to easily put the components wherever, and makes it easy to zip-tie the wires in place. There is a gap under the seat, so the fuse holders and wiring are okay as shown. I always use in-line mini blade-type fuse holders, purchased in bulk from eBay, rather than fuse boxes, because they are more versatile. I never put components in an "electric box" because most components generate heat and don't belong in a box, and I never use a fake oil bag -- It's an XS650, not a Harley, and I have never understood why builders find it necessary to mimic something that it's not.

Great work there.............looks real professional

Yes, I don't get this Harley fake oil bag either. Why do they want to mimic a HD? They should just try to be original thinkers and come up with their own unique electrical installations.

What gauge wire are you getting on the fuse holders? I see they're offered in everything from 8 to 18.

Thanks RG.

5twins said:

What gauge wire are you getting on the fuse holders? I see they're offered in everything from 8 to 18.

Click to expand...

Sorry for the delayed response, I missed your posts. I use 14 gauge for the main fuse and 16 for all others. Anything bigger is unnecessary overkill in my opinion. I have used 12 in the past, it is unwieldy working with such big gauge wire.
It seems that 90 percent of the stock wiring is 18. I think the only 14 gauge the factory used is the wire that goes from the battery, through the main fuse, and to the key switch.