Idle running too high

CoastsideXS650

Princeton Motor Works
Messages
450
Reaction score
44
Points
28
Location
San Francisco, CA
I am having a difficult time getting my idle to sit right.

My motor is a 277 rephase with Pamco. I just shortened my advance springs and lubed the cam bushings with moly grease. They pass the snap test just fine.

My carbs are 1980 BS34's with brass floats.
Uni Foam filters and homemade pipes with the cheapo baffles shoved in the end.
137.5 Main, 45 Pilot, air/fuel screw 3 turns out

I recently rebuilt the carbs with new o-rings, throttle butterfly seals, set float height, synched carbs using manometer. Everything is working just fine. My only problem is the idle seems high. I have the idle stop screw turned out till there is no contact with the throttle lever and it still is too high.

I can kinda push the throttle lever back a little more with my thumb and the idle drops to a perfect purr. Its almost like the throttle plates don't have enough spring tension to them.

Am I supposed to double wind the throttle springs on the carbs? Could my throttle plates be slightly not seated completely?

The 3 mix holes are covered by the throttle plate when closed. Only the air mix hole is on the other side of the plate.

Im stumped guys.
 
My two best guesses would be the carbs are out of sync or the butterfly plates were not centered properly when you installed them after the shaft seal replacement and they are binding.
 
Sounds like binding butterflys. Id check that first, mainly because of the idle screw position. If you can force the throttle lever farther back, then there is more room to close up with the plate. Closed is closed, but almost closed and you can force it back more.
 
With your hand off of the throttle there should be visible slack in the throttle cable. The first couple degrees of rotation at the throttle control should merely remove the slack, it should not cause the butterflies to move at all. Other than that, check what the others said.
 
If you take the top off the carbs, take out the springs, diaphrams and the needle etc (just slides out) - REMEMBER which way they were in as there is a little hole that faces the ENGINE if I recall
Then you can look through the top, (on an angle) and SEE the throttle plates, Mine was all over the shop, I did it this way and got it to almost perfect just by sight... some people use a thin piece of paper to balance them... I would definately start there...

ALSO, you say that you can push down a bit and it moves, that could be as above mentioned they are not closing enough but also could be your throttle cable routing.
If the cable twists, turns, etc it might be 'short' and wont let the throttle close all the way (like said above, there should be some slack in the cable)
Easy way to test is to unhook the carb side of the throttle cable and see if your bike idles correctly. If so its probably the cable or the throttle, if same problem I would say that its the throttle plates not closing.

Let us know how you go!
 
Seen this when throttle plates are installed backwards (plate bevel not matching bore) and/or throttle shaft bores are worn. Think back to the throttle seal replacement, were the shafts wobbly in the bores? Engine manifold vacuum on that size butterfly plate can produce 10-15 lbs of force, leading to wear, and unpredictable plate contact with carb bore...
 
Back
Top