drive chain tension

Jaydela180

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Been fighting adjusting chain after changing rear tire. Fender is getting some damage on lower run of chain. Chain grinds mostly while in the middle of 3, 4 and 5. Currently, I'm running about a 1/2" of play up and 1/2" down. I guess that's my question: Manual calls for 3/4" of play, but is that total or each way? And is this appropriate tension for hard tail?
 
you could get a spring tensioner like what monstercraftsman sells. I have one. I just tension the chain, that makes the tensioner go down, and make it so the chain in and out of the drive sprocket is parallel to each other. let the tensioner do the job. ive had no problems. I bought the weld on with the powell peralta wheel. I had to take a 1/4" off the back side of the wheel to 'middle up' the chain on it. just for looks though.
 
I know that is an option and will probably end up going that route but was seeing if I could tension correctly without one. So for the time being, am I on the loose side and could tighten little more?
 
I searched around awhile before posting but had to dance around a bunch of cam chain tension threads. Coundnt seem to find that thread, but am just gonna tighten chain and ride awhile before making any purchases. Thanks
 
you could get a spring tensioner like what monstercraftsman sells. I have one. I just tension the chain, that makes the tensioner go down, and make it so the chain in and out of the drive sprocket is parallel to each other. let the tensioner do the job. ive had no problems. I bought the weld on with the powell peralta wheel. I had to take a 1/4" off the back side of the wheel to 'middle up' the chain on it. just for looks though.


One of the BEST purchases I ever made......Ive got the same one as you, works great.

Before I was adjusting the ever loving shit out of my chain and it was still tagging the fender far to often.....now no worries.

As for adjusting it correctly.....guess I aint the guy to give you advice....couldnt ever get it right.

With the hardtail atleast you dont have to worry about suspension rebound in your equation, I really think you could go more on the "tighter" side of the spec......but YMMV.
 
Ive got the adjuster on my hardtail. I was looking for the 'best' process to adjust the chain too and the search proved painful (cam chain argh!)

I do the following: if its wrong or can be improved let me know!
1. Undo the adjuster bolts
2. Undo the axle nut
3. strap down the chain tensioner (the bolt on one I have) so it is not touching the chain
4. adjust using the adjuster bolts and measure frame to wheel until its straight with a 'bit of slack in the chain - 1/2 inch max
5. nip up the adjuster lock nuts
6. tighten up the axle nut to 110+ ft/lb
7. Measure again to make sure all good
8. UNDO the adjuster lock nuts
9. nip up the adjuster bolts so they are firm
10. Lock the adjuster nuts completely
11. untie the bolt on chain tensioner and let it push on the chain

Any adviace tips etc? to the OP - does that help at all?
Mind you this is AFTER I bent one of my adjuster bolts on my maiden run because the axle nut wasnt on tight enough. I just hope my torque wrench IS out because I get it to 120 ft/lb - feels very tight but feels like I could go even tighter no drama...

Cheers,
Peter.
 
JD750ace - great link on roller chains from Tsubaki!

Jaydela180 - Try the upper left google search using: "hardtail"+"chain"
(More mind-numbing threads, less about camchains though)

Pristic - Nice checklist! Okay, you asked for it:

Item #4 - what I do is adjust the left adjuster first, getting near 1/2" (for hardtail, 3/4" for swigarm) slack at tightest point, then just mildly snug the locknut. (I guess you call that 'nip up'?) Then adjust right side, while viewing tire edges, comparing alignment to front wheel. When even/centered, finger snug locknut. Then examine alignment marks on swingarm. Mine aren't exactly equal, but have ref mark to doublecheck. Someday, may recut alignment indicators, but that seems too anal.

Item #6 - Ever done that "twister" game? I'll go on right side, apply rear brake with right foot while (whilst?) leaning over left side to tighten axle nut.
Wow, 110? I usually get away with 50-60 ft-lbs.
 
JD750ace - great link on roller chains from Tsubaki!

Jaydela180 - Try the upper left google search using: "hardtail"+"chain"
(More mind-numbing threads, less about camchains though)

Pristic - Nice checklist! Okay, you asked for it:

Item #4 - what I do is adjust the left adjuster first, getting near 1/2" (for hardtail, 3/4" for swigarm) slack at tightest point, then just mildly snug the locknut. (I guess you call that 'nip up'?) Then adjust right side, while viewing tire edges, comparing alignment to front wheel. When even/centered, finger snug locknut. Then examine alignment marks on swingarm. Mine aren't exactly equal, but have ref mark to doublecheck. Someday, may recut alignment indicators, but that seems too anal.

Item #6 - Ever done that "twister" game? I'll go on right side, apply rear brake with right foot while (whilst?) leaning over left side to tighten axle nut.
Wow, 110? I usually get away with 50-60 ft-lbs.

Apparently the manual states 108ft/lb ??
Also you have me thinking. We should do a "chain adjustment instructions thread" seems common to ask how to do it.

Also you got me interested. Why do you press the brake before tightening up the axle nut? Does that do anything important? I love twister when drunk and naked. The more I drink the less I care who I'm playing with. Hahaha.

Peter.

Posted via Mobile
 
So my next question, why the wheel type over sprocket? Looks like 2 votes wheel and 0 for sprocket. For some reason I'm leaning towards sprocket, but would like to be convinced otherwise for a good reason.
 
Ow! Gonna take 2 weeks to get that picture outta my head...

Applying the brake ensures that the brake shoes will be centered. Maybe not important here, but was normal procedure back then, and was vital on many older bikes. Look at old panhead rear brake backing plate for example. Across from the actuating brake cam shaft is a large recessed nut which holds the static brake shoe post (about which the shoes pivot). After refit of new shoes, this nut is loosened, wheel rocked a bit while pressing brake, and tightened while pressing brake. Failure to do this brake shoe 'centering' procedure leads to premature uneven wear, and worse case, brake chirp, which can actually shear-off the brake cam shaft.
 
Mine is the sprocket one. Bolt on not weld on.
Apart from looks I 'believe' sprocket one is ;
1. Slightly more fiddly to line up
2. Noisier
3. Adds wear to the chain

Me likes the sprocket one though.
Pete

Posted via Mobile
 
Jaydela180, My chop is stretched 4", and with 1/2" slack (that's total movement, 1/4" up, 1/4" down), it never produced problems. Just flowed smoothly, no flopping. Are you running longer stretch and considering roller/sprocket tensioner to control flop?
 
Its your standard tc bro stretch of 4 back and 2 down. Tensioner would be for chain flop, but have yet to tighten chain and see how that rides. Tensioner is plan b.
 
I can't seem to get it to stop bouncing on decompression. I noticed it is leaving scuff marks on the tire( yes I checked the tire pressure, and the chain is straight). I'm running a hard tail (tc bros) with 110 link chain and sprocket tensioner.
 
Yeah, that is a bit close. Everytime the chain touches the rolling wheel will add to your chain flopping. Maybe some ideas needed here. I like a minimum 1/2" clearance, so offset sprockets/spacers, guided chain tensioner, adjust rear wheel lacing to move wheel to the right, narrower tire, create horizontal chainguide to prevent rightward deflection, new chain (if old chain has tight spots), medication (to help you ignore it)...
 
I do have the kinks starting to show in the chain, guess I order new chain. I am running an Avon rear tire might go narrower when I need a new one. I'll try the spacer thing when I replace the rear sprocket this winter. I've already tried the medication route, that coursed the wife to find me curlied up on the floor mumbling some thing incoherently :umm:

Thanks toomany
 
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