BS34 Plastic Float Measurement Point

gregoryp

XS650 Enthusiast
Messages
65
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
North Carolina
I'm pretty new to the forum, but have been taking in as much information as possible while planning my build. I just picked up an 81' and am trying to get it running. I've read through the documentation in the tech section on the carbs, but didn't see anything that showed the actual measurement point for the top of the plastic floats. Looking at them from the side mine are round, but then have a square area that connects them to the metal bracket where the float pivots. The question is do I measure from the carb body to the top of the round area of the float, or to the flat/square area where the metal bracket connects to the plastic part of the float. Seems like the two points would make a few mm difference in the float height.
Thanks,
Greg
 
Measure to the lower rounded portion of the float, not the upper square section by the hinge. Here's one set at about 21mm .....

34Correct.jpg


Make sure you sight directly across the top of the float, perpendicular to it's side. If you look from too high or low of an angle, your reading will be off. The spec for the plastic floats is 22 +/- 1mm.
 
I'm at the same point in my carbs too...perfect timing... :)

The floats look to be pretty close to "level"...is that what you are essentially shooting for...I'm assuming so...?

My carbs for my '82 were incomplete, so last week i ordered some floats and needles from Mikesxs....do you find the aftermarket carb parts any good? Dealing with vintage sleds all these years has taught me that some carb parts while "OK" the repops never seem to be as good as the original stufff...is it the same thing with vintage bikes?
 
Thanks 5Twins,
That is exactly what I was looking for. Renegade, I got my rebuild kits from Mikes xs and so far everything fits well, we'll see how they run. The previous owner of my carbs was not kind to them and apparently had no idea how to work on them. Looks like the needles were sticking and they wacked them with a hammer to free them up every time they rode it. The carb I'm working on now had the float tab bent so far that the float bracket hit the mounting bracket before it even lifted the needle off the seat and the mixture screws were screwed all the way in.:eek:
 
Properly set, the floats aren't quite level with the body. If you look closely at the seam on the side, you'll see it angles up slightly away from the hinge.

Aftermarket carb parts are hit and miss. The 34 rebuild kit from Mike's is good but there's not much to it. It contains a bowl gasket, that rubber plug for capping the pilot jet, and a float needle seat assembly.

Mike's replacement plastic floats on the other hand, are not so good. If you examine an original, you'll see the hinge has a tube shim installed in it so it fits nice and snug on the pivot pin. Mike's replacements don't have that shim and are a loose fit on the pin. They can jiggle all around while operating and I think this adversely affects their ability to accurately control the fuel level in the bowl. If there's any way to clean up and re-use your original floats, I recommend you do so. The plastic floats are pretty bulletproof. They're solid so they can't spring a leak.
 
Back
Top