Unless the owner of a paint project speaks up, I really can't say.
.... In other words, I could tell ya, but then I'd have to kill ya.
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Painting Tins. No really...
- Thread starter Jim
- Start date
.... In other words, I could tell ya, but then I'd have to kill ya.
I worth more dead than alive.. I lots of ways
I've had good luck running chromed parts through the bead blaster just enough to rough it, followed by 2k self etch then 2k urethane primer.Same dealer, new game....
I used to think the only way to paint over chrome is taking it to a chromer's and have 'em take the chrome off. That's before I discovered these... 60 grit flap wheel. Takes chrome down to a paintable finish like a knife through butter.
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Handed off to the painters... 2 part epoxy.
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This'll be a custom color. Stay tuned, you'll not wanna miss it.
Twinsies once again. No longer identical twins, but kindred spirits nonetheless.
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Pro tip time...
You can get really anal about vinyl placement... measure, mark... measure again, scribble out the old marks and pencil in new.... trying to be exact can be maddening. Hint; you don't need to be exact, jus' close enough so no one notices...
I find a reference point, in this case the white line across the bottom... and use painters tape to "stack" lines until it becomes it's own reference point "about" where you want the vinyl. Run another side to side across the top and Bob's your uncle.
'Nother tip... after you squeegee the vinyl on and peel the top off, use a pencil point flashlight and shine across it at as shallow an angle as possible. Any air bubbles that need removing will stand out like a sore thumb by the shadow they cast. Here you can clearly see the grain of the vinyl. Yes, it's shiny, but even shiny will have a grain. If the grain cast's a shadow, a bubble will look like a mountain. Got lucky on these, so unfortunately no bubbles to shoot a pic of.
Last tip... a personal preference actually. Use a soft squeegee. Most vinyl kits come with a hard squeegee. They work good when you first apply the decal. After you peel the paper off however, they can scratch the vinyl.... and pretty badly in some cases. A brand new bondo applicator does an excellent job of chasing out bubbles without scratching.
You can get really anal about vinyl placement... measure, mark... measure again, scribble out the old marks and pencil in new.... trying to be exact can be maddening. Hint; you don't need to be exact, jus' close enough so no one notices...
I find a reference point, in this case the white line across the bottom... and use painters tape to "stack" lines until it becomes it's own reference point "about" where you want the vinyl. Run another side to side across the top and Bob's your uncle.
'Nother tip... after you squeegee the vinyl on and peel the top off, use a pencil point flashlight and shine across it at as shallow an angle as possible. Any air bubbles that need removing will stand out like a sore thumb by the shadow they cast. Here you can clearly see the grain of the vinyl. Yes, it's shiny, but even shiny will have a grain. If the grain cast's a shadow, a bubble will look like a mountain. Got lucky on these, so unfortunately no bubbles to shoot a pic of.
Last tip... a personal preference actually. Use a soft squeegee. Most vinyl kits come with a hard squeegee. They work good when you first apply the decal. After you peel the paper off however, they can scratch the vinyl.... and pretty badly in some cases. A brand new bondo applicator does an excellent job of chasing out bubbles without scratching.
Good thing I took a second look... found a bubble. The problem is, if you don't take care of 'em now, you're screwed after you clear coat. Soon as the sun warms the tank up, it'll grow to the size of Mt Everest.
Pro tip time...
You can get really anal about vinyl placement... measure, mark... measure again, scribble out the old marks and pencil in new.... trying to be exact can be maddening. Hint; you don't need to be exact, jus' close enough so no one notices...
I find a reference point, in this case the white line across the bottom... and use painters tape to "stack" lines until it becomes it's own reference point "about" where you want the vinyl. Run another side to side across the top and Bob's your uncle.
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'Nother tip... after you squeegee the vinyl on and peel the top off, use a pencil point flashlight and shine across it at as shallow an angle as possible. Any air bubbles that need removing will stand out like a sore thumb by the shadow they cast. Here you can clearly see the grain of the vinyl. Yes, it's shiny, but even shiny will have a grain. If the grain cast's a shadow, a bubble will look like a mountain. Got lucky on these, so unfortunately no bubbles to shoot a pic of.
View attachment 324322
Last tip... a personal preference actually. Use a soft squeegee. Most vinyl kits come with a hard squeegee. They work good when you first apply the decal. After you peel the paper off however, they can scratch the vinyl.... and pretty badly in some cases. A brand new bondo applicator does an excellent job of chasing out bubbles without scratching.
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The trend in surfboard glassing went from these Thalco rubber squeegees
To the yellow bondo style squeegees.
The problem with the bondo style is they are too hard and pull too much resin and don’t easily conform to subtle curves the the rubber ones.
The solution is to soak them in acetone for a day. You can get those bonds squeegees nice and soft.
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