ok seen as how its obvious that the whole bolt has been twisting whilst riding the welded stopper on the left had side was bent back so i removed it. this has allowed me to get an adjustable wrench on it as its not a D its a D with both sides flat, so i have now got the bolt to turn, its very solid but i can get a full turn so i think patience is now needed. sorting out the stop tag will be easy, but it looks like a need a new pivot bolt
Hi nb1914,
yeah, it's not a D-shape, it's two flats. Sorry, it's been a long time since I did mine.
It had the other problem, it's M14 threaded end fell off and the bolt fell out in the street.
At highway speed.
My son's dirt bike riding skills enabled him to keep the bike upright as it skidded to a stop with the locked up rear wheel leaving a 100' black line in the road.
The used replacement broke too, luckily I noticed it when it was only part way out.
The M14 ends break off because the high torque needed to tighten the bolt enough to lock the bearing sleeve in place plus the sharp transition from 16mm to 14mm just about guarantees a stress/fatigue failure.
Then I replaced it with a full M16 threaded end bolt from a Suzuki.
Which has a full hexagon head that I had to grind one of the flats deeper to fit the frame stop block.
And why you should get a full M16 threaded replacement throughbolt so it don't happen to you.
And if your throughbolt has twisted your frame stop block off I betcha it's rusted into the bearing sleeve and it's serious BFH time anyway.