oil drips from oil plug

[emzdogz]

This is really confusing. I have a drop of oil that keeps re-appearing on the oil plug of my project bike. It's the back oil plug. Right now the bike doesn't even have oil in it. It's just some residual oil that must be creeping into that bottom area.
I installed a new copper washer, in preparation for adding oil soon, prior to (trying to) start it.

The oil doesn't seem to be coming from anywhere else on the bottom of the engine. Just right from that drain plug. This plug doesn't seem like one you'd want to tighten down really hard, right? I use a big wrench on it, rather than a socket, so I can't measure the torque... but I honked on it pretty good. <<< nice unit of measurement, huh?

Was wondering if any of you all had had this issue.
I can tighten it more.....

I remember someone on here had mentioned using a big o-ring there instead of the copper washer, or maybe it was in ADDITION to the copper washer.

Anyway, I hesitate to add the full amt. of oil if it will continually leak.

It's just like one fat drop always hangs there..... and this little smear in a pan I keep under it. I'd have thought it would drip itself dry by now.

thx for any input....

 

[TeeCat]

Mine will sometimes do this, though it sat for most of a mid-Atlantic winter with thinner oil. You need to use the copper crush washers; I have always gotten mine from Mike's. They compress when tightened (I use about 30 ft lbs and it's worth having a torque wrench), but if you use them more than a few times, it's recommended that you either heat anneal them or replace them. I do the latter, but need to order some more, so right now I have the dribble. Don't overtorque, because those plugs are steel and at least one of the threaded case sections is softer alloy. The crush washers are cheap insurance... I really need to get more.

TC

 

[emzdogz]

TeeCat, thanks for the response - the thing is, I just put in a brand new one of those copper crush washers and it's still leaking.

 

[malloym]

2 things..

there 1 time use as is all copper sealing washers

proper torque is a good pratice.. (over tighten and they will deform and leak)

also put the open side of the washer towards the engine.

 

[TeeCat]

Oh, then in that case, I'll bet you that it's undertorqued. I think that the rear threads are the ones that are aluminum, and if you're "feeling" your way to final torque, there's a good possibility of error. I zealously recommend a moderately priced (Craftsman) torque wrench. Guessing could mean undertorquing, or the opposite, which could make you very unhappy, and cost a lot more that a torque wrench.

TC

 

[emzdogz]

I wonder how many people actually torque this to spec though. I have a torque wrench, just no huge socket!

...and I noticed Mike's (for instance) sells a big wrench that they describe as being good for this purose, so I figured the torque might not be critical.

I'm gonna flip the washer over tonight and re-honk and see what happens. 30 ft lbs is a good bit of torque - maybe I don't have that on it.

thanks! will report back....

 

[pyroman]

Has Your Honker been calibrated recently? As far as the dribble, I can relate.....

 

[TeeCat]

Double check torque spec before you do it. I think Yamaha changed it at least once, and I'm going from memory.

 

[Dusty]

I think it was me that mentioned the o-ring fix, but I turn a groove in the flange of the plug so as not to smash the o-ring. I have also heated copper washers red hot to soften them up.

 

[650Skull]

I have never torqued a bolt in my life, on cars or bikes. (maybe thats why mine is off the road ). Seriously, You may have the washer round the wrong way or not enough torque, wouldn't recommend an o ring, you seem to have the right feel, a good honk.........if you take the copper washer off give it a bit of heat to soften it again then retry, Think like a spark plug, at first just take up the tension then with steady pressure crank on it slowly and feel it pull up tight then give it a bit of a jerk. if it leaks then honk on it some more, or there could be some other issue like a damaged face or a bit of dirt between the plug and case......

 

[Dusty]

Why wouldn't you recommend an o-ring ? I have done this to my last 3 650's, no oil leaks. I think most of the new engines run o-rings instead of gaskets. I think an o-ring is a clean,easy fix, and you don't have to crank the plugs down so tight that you risk stripping the threads.

 

[650Skull]

More for the fact an o ring can/will twist under pressure from a turning surface, (if that sounds right). Ok, if the 2 surfaces the ring is sealing are pressed together, but as i said if one surface is turning the ring can twist. if you make a grove in one of the mated surfaces then that would in all likelihood be ok, but a copper washer should do the job as it has been doing since the model T, if not there has to be a reason.

If you are cranking a copperwasher down so hard you strip the threads then you are doing it wrong.

 

[xjwmx]

You can drain virtually all the oil using just the front plug. So, I would just put some gasket material of some kind under it and honk it real good and never use it again. If the copper didn't work, then something softer.

 

[TeeCat]

On a related topic (don't want to hijack the thread), anyone care to give a little primer on how to prepare a copper crush washer for re-use? Might save some money and wait time. Little hand-held propane torch? Red hot or how hot? And do you have to quench them right afterward, or just let them cool? Might be good in a pinch.

 

[650Skull]

Propane torch is good enough, better to have a heating tip. Get the copper hot enough to change color and you have to be careful when getting it red hot you don't start to melt the copper. Do not quench it as that will harden it again, let it cool on its own. And try to get an even heat all round

 

[ReycleBill]

It's just marking its territory.

 

[gggGary]

I have had to beat off (oops) that back plug by smacking the end of a breaker bar with a maul and haven't seen a stripped thread yet. Just put on my first set of Wicks Aircraft crush washers and love the feel of a new crush washer. I always clean the plug with carb cleaner and scrub it with a tooth brush and carefully wipe the flange on the crankcase too. Can't count how many washers I have reused with no prep and no leaks.

 

[emzdogz]

hey hi-jack away...I think it would be good to have that info available easily to "search" here on the forum.

 

[TeeCat]

Excellent, thank you, Skull and all!

I'm going to have to re-use mine for my upcoming summer weight oil change, as have to order more. Good tip on the carb cleaner and toothbrush, Gary!

TC

 

[emzdogz]

You can drain virtually all the oil using just the front plug. So, I would just put some gasket material of some kind under it and honk it real good and never use it again. If the copper didn't work, then something softer.

I have to confess - I can't get my front plug out.
It is soooooo freakin tight. Even with a long bar on it. Will not budge. Don't want to mess up the plate it attaches to by sticking it in a vise. So I use the back one to drain. It's a mess removing that sump plate though, to inspect/clean that filter.