oil drips from oil plug

You might want to try a plastic dead-blow hammer on the end of the bar. I use a big wooden carving mallet in situations like that. These both apply "shock" but are absorptive as well. Just make sure you're tapping your bar in the right direction, as when threaded things are "upside down" it's embarrassingly easy to get confused. It'll come out. In a worst case, you can at least replace the sump plate. The lower case half, though... not so much.
 
I can't get my front plug out.

Bar and a BFH lay the bike over on some cardboard to improve the angle two people really helps. I'll kick the bar wearing heavy boots. But I take stuck plugs as an affront to my manhood..... I also own a 27mm 6 point impact socket. some days I wish it was 3/4 drive instead of 1/2 drive though.

Or buy a different sump plate they are very cheap on fleabay often they include a nice torn filter.
 
Re. annealing copper washers, gaskets, etc.: heat cherry red and quench. Quenching hardens steel but softens copper; it ain't the same stuff. The crush washers from Mike's XS aren't copper (they look like aluminum with a copper wash?), so don't try the annealing process on those. I have OEM washers with 30-plus years on 'em that work just fine.
 
something just occurred to me... are the front and the rear oil drain plugs the same? (interchangeable)

ps: answered my own question by looking at parts fiche..
YES they are the same part #
 
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I had drain plugs that always had a small amount of leakage. I tried using the so called copper washers from Mikesxs, but they leaked as well ( they are too hard ..........see comment by grizld1) . I had an Athena gasket kit from Mikesxs, which contained fibre type drain plug gaskets. 5twins suggested I use those, and I have used those for the last few years. The fibre gaskets are leak free................I use 40 ft-lbs.

Here's a tip from Pamcopete:

www.aircraftspruce.com
#AN900-19...............1 and 3/16" ID.............83 cents each (real copper I suspect)
 

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