Oil seeping from left side of engine

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xs650dude63

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Hey everyone, I need to re-torque all my head bolts, but the washers that are on there now are steel, they aren't copper, none of the studs on top of the engine have copper washers, they are all steel, what kit do I need to buy at mikexs so I have copper for all of the studs. I have a 1980 XS650 Special. Thanks!
 
Hey xs650dude, I am also about to do the same procedure as you in hopes of stopping a weeping head gasket. From what I have learned only the outer 4 acorn nuts on the 10mm studs have to have copper washers under them because they help to direct oil. The inner 4 can be steel washers that's fine only if they are think enough to allow the acorn washer to make full contact with the head before bottoming out on the stud. The ones on mikesxs are brass washers, you want copper. So go www.650central.com, click on engine on the left side, scoll down almost to the bottom and they are called copper head sealing washers. They are about 3 bucks a piece and you'll need 4 of them. That's what your looking for.
Good luck sir
 
Also if you didn't already read about it, when retorqing the head loosen the faseners one at a time, clean up the threads well, put anti-sieze on them then reinstall and torque them to your required setting in increments.
 
I've got the same thing going on with my 79. Otherwise she runs good, now that I cleaned the carbs. She does have an upper cylinder rattle at idol...but it quiets down on the road. Anything to worry about?
 
I don't know, you might want to start a new thread on that question, I am sure one of the senior members will chime in to give you their opinion, also, thanks Burdine97, for the great information!
 
xs650dude63 said:
I don't know, you might want to start a new thread on that question, I am sure one of the senior members will chime in to give you their opinion, also, thanks Burdine97, for the great information!
Click to expand...
Hey anytime man! Hope that gasket stops leaking for ya! Im certain it will.
 
Shortly said:
I've got the same thing going on with my 79. Otherwise she runs good, now that I cleaned the carbs. She does have an upper cylinder rattle at idol...but it quiets down on the road. Anything to worry about?
Click to expand...
Hey shortly. That is often strange that after a carb cleaning you notice an engine noise. It probably quites down on the road cause of wind noise and you can't hear it. I'd try setting you valves for starters. Not sure what would be rattling around loose but whatever it is can't be good if your certain it's coming from the engine.
 
I could only find the copper washer kit where you get 10 washers for $8.50, they do have brass washers for $3.75 each, but I think the 10 piece kit seems to be the better deal, since copper is better then brass.
 
xs650dude63 said:
I could only find the copper washer kit where you get 10 washers for $8.50, they do have brass washers for $3.75 each, but I think the 10 piece kit seems to be the better deal, since copper is better then brass.
Click to expand...
Hi dude,
for that money you can get a 6-pack of Dowty sealing washers from Drummond McCall.
Us cheapskates anneal and re-purpose the copper banjo bolt sealing washers we saved from the last time we swapped out our brake lines.
 
OK, I got 4 copper washers from mikexs so I can re-torque my head bolts, is it necessary to do all 8 or can I just do the 4 that the copper washers are going to go on? If I need to do all 8 what pattern should I use? I know the outer 4 are to be at 30 FT Lbs, but what about the inner 4? And what about the ones under the spark plugs, do I need to re-torque those, if so what FT Lbs are those supposed to be?
There is also 4 other bolts they are 12mm 2 in front and two in back on top of the motor, do these need to be re-torqued also, if so what FT Lbs are those?

Sorry, so many questions, I just want to make sure I do it right the first time. Thanks!
 
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Here's a diagram with torque values and tightening sequence. Yes, do all 8 of the big acorn nuts on top of the head (#1 - 8), also do the two under the spark plugs (#9 & 10). You don't have to do those four smaller bolts on top of the head (#12 - 15). They don't affect the head gasket torque, they just hold the top cover on the head.

CylinderHeadTorque.jpg


The usual routine is to remove the nuts or bolts one at a time, clean the threads, apply a little anti-seize, then re-install. On the large acorn nuts, I'd install them all at about 25, then go back around and bring them up to 30. For the two smaller ones under the plugs, I'd install them at about 10 or 12, then go back and bring them up to 16.
 
You need to be stern. Remind your bike that this kind of behavior is NOT acceptable. If necessary, be loud and state firmly "You are NOT a British Twin! You will NOT behave this way!"
 
Shortly said:
She does have an upper cylinder rattle at idol...but it quiets down on the road. Anything to worry about?
Click to expand...

It's just an old economy twin, no need to make an idol of it, maybe it's purring!
Yes if you haven't; adjust valves,and the cam chain chain using the "engine running at idle method. I like to think I have the chain set perfect if it slaps a bit at start up then goes quiet. For several reasons it's best if the idle RPM isn't TOO low, even if that sounds "cool".
 
RPM should be set at about 1200?

Also, the nuts and bolts holding the bracket at the top of the motor, should those be torqued to a certain torque, when I took them off they made a clicking sound, should I use lock tite on them?
 
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It worked, I think, when I rub my fingers on the fins on the left side of the motor they feel slightly oily, but no oil is running down the engine cover like before, should I re-torque since I took it out and got it up to operating temperature?
 
Yes, there are torque values for the top motor mount bolts, and for all the other motor mount bolts as well. You should check them all occasionally. The way these bikes vibrate, they can and do come loose. When I got mine, not a couple but every one was loose. The looser they get, the more the bike will vibrate. Here's a chart with the values. It's recommended to tighten them in the order they're numbered .....

RevisedEngineMountTorqueSmall.jpg


The first set of values comes from an early '80s manual, second set from the '78 manual. I use the higher of the two values with one exception. I don't agree with the revised value for the #5 mount. Yamaha nearly doubled it from 36 to 65 ft/lbs. I think that's too much. I do use a bit more than 36, somewhere in the mid 40s, just not all the way up to 65.

Don't use any loctite on the motor mount bolts. The lock nuts they use do seem to lose some of their grip after multiple removals and installs. I add a regular split ring lock washer to them.
 
Thanks for the post on the motor mounts 5twins. Didn't know the bolts where prone to coming loose, I'm definatley gonna check mine this weekend!
 

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