More notes; the top and bottom outer races are different thicknesses keep the two bearings separate so you don't mix up parts and put the wrong race in the bottom, where it's a serious trick to remove. Yeah that's why I know.
Agreed man, I planned on getting those, but only if the rules allow it for my class lol. I do have them on my chopper though. I'm hoping to get pretty hard into bike racing in the future. and pinstriping. and engraving...cycle art n shit lolAll Balls Racing bearings. Knock out your races by any means necessary, install new ones, bearing, seat and seal on the bottom, push that sucker up, bearing, seat and seal on the top, and you’re good to go. Dont over tighten.
From what year did that change apply? I have nothing like that on my 77 D model.One of these dayz...
Later Yamaha's use a rubber washer between the two nuts and a washer with a tang that drops into both nut's slots. this locks the steering bearing when the top triple is tightened against the top nut with the cap nut but does NOT change the preload as you no longer have to tighten the second nut. New bearings can be quickly ruined if you overload them with the nuts.
A good improvement to the system.
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If you do this and have stock headlight "ears" you will need to add spacers to make up for the increased height, about 3/16" ??
From what year did that change apply? I have nothing like that on my 77 D model.
They aren't really stuck but are an interference fit and need to be driven out. The stock race has a shelf that you can tap/ hammer on from above with a long drift. The ledge isn't very wide, I have a drift (just a steel rod, a long 1/2" bolt ground a bit would work fine.) that I grind a flat on so it has a bit more contact with the edge. It helps if the rod is fairly big say 1/2" X 12" so you can brace it against the other side of the top race to help keep the bottom on the lip. I'm sure there's an expanding race driver somewhere that world work for this but I haven't felt the need to spend the money. I did buy a fancy race driver kit one time for installing but was not impressed and sold it. I have an old race welded to a piece of pipe to drive in the new races now.Question, after removing the steering stem and then knocking out the stock bearing races from the frame neck, what is the best way to remove the original lower ball bearing race still on the steering stem.
Are those often stuck ?
Thx -R
Question, after removing the steering stem and then knocking out the stock bearing races from the frame neck, what is the best way to remove the original lower ball bearing race still on the steering stem.
Are those often stuck ?
Thx -R
Yes, the original frame steering neck bearing races are easily knocked out...They aren't really stuck but are an interference fit and need to be driven out. The stock race has a shelf that you can tap/ hammer on from above with a long drift. The ledge isn't very wide,
Thank you , that all sounds both effective and fun too.Induction heating of the race, or an oxy-acetylene torch. Or spot weld a piece of tubing to the bearing race, weld a nut to the other end of it, add a bolt, then you have a puller.
Well , at least I have my torque wrench in the mix there too ..Machine, a hatchet, really dude? lol The tool of choice for building a "chopper" I guess, lol. Brings a whole new meaning to the phrase "hatchet job".
Remove that rubber seal below the race. It's all rubber with no steel band or spring in it so it will stretch over the race.
Kidding aside, the rubber seal under the race did look like an obstacle to reckon with. It does however easily stretch right over the race (thx) and then some easy tapping around in a fashion described above does remove the lower steering stem race free of any damage or really even evidence.You don't need to resort to any of that for this race removal. It taps off easy enough just by driving chisels or big screwdrivers in along both sides.