Speedometer and tachometer rebuild

And can we add this to the thread in the Tech section under opening speedo section or something
Just a thought
Every little bit helps at least for me
There's already 4 threads on this in Tech Mikey. Most likely, everything covered in this thread is also in one of those.


1712701304799.png
 
I collected and condensed all the different gauge gauge information and any workings, as they were posted, into one thread keeping it all in one place. That way people could try different approaches that would suit them. The thread also has a collection of information revolving around gauges, including where parts, (rubbers mainly), can be sourced.

hadn't added 5Twins way of doing it, mainly because i hadn't seen it before.

Personally what i like about my method is the bezel gets over stretched then it springs back, the process can take around 3 full turns or more, (after already doing 3 turns of the circumference thinking i had enough of the bezel stretched to get it off), that is the secret, making it real easy to remove and reinstall. First time i done it was an anxious time thinking the cup was going to crack/break and the bezel may go out of shape. The cups are quite flexible, that is not to say being heavy handed wont crack it, Important to make small increments, both around the cup and lifting the lip stretching the bezel lip or else it will not go back leaving a ragged lip that will let in moisture.

Being careful and light handed, no damage can be done to the bezel................. It can, if your heavy handed and don't use good packaging under it when bending it back into place.
 
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I collected and condensed all the different gauge gauge information and any workings, as they were posted, into one thread keeping it all in one place. That way people could try different approaches that would suit them. The thread also has a collection of information revolving around gauges, including where parts, (rubbers mainly), can be sourced.

hadn't added 5Twins way of doing it, mainly because i hadn't seen it before.

Personally what i like about my method is the bezel gets over stretched then it springs back, the process can take around 3 full turns or more, (after already doing 3 turns of the circumference thinking i had enough of the bezel stretched to get it off), that is the secret, making it real easy to remove and reinstall. First time i done it was an anxious time thinking the cup was going to crack/break and the bezel may go out of shape. The cups are quite flexible, that is not to say being heavy handed wont crack it, Important to make small increments, both around the cup and lifting the lip stretching the bezel lip or else it will not go back leaving a ragged lip that will let in moisture.

Being careful and light handed, no damage can be done to the bezel................. It can, if your heavy handed and don't use good packaging under it when bending it back into place.
I was thinking about combining methods -- gently stretching the band with a small screwdriver to remove the bezel, as in your pics, then using the hose clamp method to reshrink the bezel back in place while using the block/clamps to hold it all together correctly.
 
I was thinking about combining methods -- gently stretching the band with a small screwdriver to remove the bezel, as in your pics, then using the hose clamp method to reshrink the bezel back in place while using the block/clamps to hold it all together correctly.
The secret is to leave about an inch, or slightly more, of the bezel unstretched. This helps when reinstalling, gives the lip of the cup something to slip into and this helps to get a good purchase to get the cup bedded and held down.
 
The secret is to leave about an inch, or slightly more, of the bezel unstretched. This helps when reinstalling, gives the lip of the cup something to slip into and this helps to get a good purchase to get the cup bedded and held down.

Right on, right on.
That tidbit seems to get lost in the oft times lengthy discourses.
It's been a while but if I recall it was around......mebbe
....... 4/5 of uncrimping to where the bezel could be slipped out of the hold.
I'll add that putting it all back together with a wee bit of dielectric compound helped to ease the sticktion, its what I had on hand.
 
The secret is to leave about an inch, or slightly more, of the bezel unstretched. This helps when reinstalling, gives the lip of the cup something to slip into and this helps to get a good purchase to get the cup bedded and held down.

Right on, right on.
That tidbit seems to get lost in the oft times lengthy discourses.
It's been a while but if I recall it was around......mebbe
....... 4/5 of uncrimping to where the bezel could be slipped out of the hold.
I'll add that putting it all back together with a wee bit of dielectric compound helped to ease the sticktion, its what I had on hand.

Great advice, guys! Haven't done anything like this since back in the race-cars days -- anyone here old enough to remember 24 hour marathon slot-car races? hobby shop was a great place to hang out in the 60s...

Off to google dielectric compound...

Oh! Silicone lube. There's a tube of that in Dad's old workbench (Which means it's likely not been opened since the mid to late 90s... Wonder if it's rock solid...)
 
Use any lube very sparingly. Any excess will squeeze out and mess up the inside of the glass. I think I might just clean all the rings with silicone spray lube then let them dry. Hopefully that will make them slippery. I don't recall using any sort of lube on those parts on the several I've had apart (and then re-assembled).
 
Use any lube very sparingly. Any excess will squeeze out and mess up the inside of the glass. I think I might just clean all the rings with silicone spray lube then let them dry. Hopefully that will make them slippery. I don't recall using any sort of lube on those parts on the several I've had apart (and then re-assembled).
Good plan. Thanks!
 
I leave the disassembled gauges in the full sun for an hour to completely erase any moisture. That is when I paint any of the rings that may need it.

From my tutorial, Note's in red
IMG_20240411_073421.jpg
 
I leave the disassembled gauges in the full sun for an hour to completely erase any moisture. That is when I paint any of the rings that may need it.

From my tutorial, Note's in red
View attachment 322976
Cool! Thanks much! Love the notes. Going to make me a cool pry bar -- may have one already. Man swears I never throw anything away, even bent screwdrivers. LOL
 
Cool! Thanks much! Love the notes. Going to make me a cool pry bar -- may have one already. Man swears I never throw anything away, even bent screwdrivers. LOL
Payroll's done and I'm back to working on bike parts. Thanks for the paint-can-opener trick, Jim! Worked great. Pieces of gauges lined up on my Small Projects Table.

Jim sent me some practice pieces so I don't destroy mine as part of the learning curve. So far got one tach and one speedometer fully apart, and my original speedometer back together -- at least the seal's back on with an undended bezel. Waiting on Babbits and replacement rubber stuffs to complete the project).

Made a cool tool/jig for reassembling the bezel -- used a pair of oversize hole cutter bits to cut a wood circle the size of the bezel and another one with the center cut out to fit over the back side so I could clamp em in place and work my way around the bezel and crimp it back down. Worked really well with an old set of waterpump pliers to do the crimping. Pictures to follow once the phone recharges.
 
Hose clamp bump... speculating, piston ring compressor has smaller bump, the sleeve sort...just a thought.

You fellas are purists... fer me an after market electronic tach with speed scribes on the face. Longtime ago, in chopper days, get steady speed and notch the rubber of twist grip...use a pal in car to pace, or GPS...which is how I do my old gal. Cops pay no attention. 'Course up hill or down, the notch with knife no workie well.
 
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