Securing Rear Chain Sprocket Bolts with Just Red Loc-tite??

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Has anyone employed or presently uses this approach to securing the Rear sprocket bolts as opposed to the Locking tabs? I know with the Red Loc-tite it will be a challenge breaking the bolts the next time there is a need. Assuming with a long 1/2" drive Pull bar, I should be able to overcome the Loc-tite without having to resort to heat.

Asking with the concern for safety.

Not a race bike just used for spirited riding on the street. Presently has a new 530 chain, stock size wheels and tires. Will be gearing the bike low for greater torque multiplication. Hard launches and occasional wheelie.
 
I wouldn't do it. I've personally encountered very stuck sprocket bolts, even had a few break off trying to remove them. They are a fine thread and can corrode in there really good, lol. For that reason, I liberally anti-seize them when I install them, and use the lock tab thing as well.
 
I generally avoid red thread locker. And most always take 5twins advice.lol. I would guess that blue locker has some anti-seize effect. Proper, even torque and locking tabs. It's not as pretty, but I mash the locking tabs tight against the head of the bolt. Keep theese in mind if you're doing a pre-ride check.
 
When I built up 'Taffy' with a Cognito Disc Conversion hub I used Loctite Blue to secure the sprocket bolts.
IMG_0145.JPEG


I put aligned 'witness' marks on all the bolts and sprocket to allow me to check for movement over time.
IMG_1780.JPEG


Sprocket 2.JPG


After some miles and spirited riding NO MOVEMENT at all.
The marks can be removed once you are happy.
Images above taken before completion and I know the lock pin is missing from the castelated nut...:thumbsup:
 
Watching, Thinking, now Asking..
See on this Omars 19” rear wheel conversion those original fine thread sprocket bolts are nut used.
Good because I don’t like those original rear bolts anyway. So here in this example shown are the New bolts which are as long in length as can be in the holes. Clean everything. New aluminum sprocket. New lock washers. Light application of Blue..
I believe this to be safe and do intend to check for looseness often as needed to confirm that. We XS owners need to constantly check many bolts anyway right?
Seeing others preferred examples as well as input in this thread has me wondering what is overkill vs what is necessary?
Lock tabs are fugly for sure
IMG_7058.jpeg
 
Adamc said:
When I built up 'Taffy' with a Cognito Disc Conversion hub I used Loctite Blue to secure the sprocket bolts.
View attachment 324936

I put aligned 'witness' marks on all the bolts and sprocket to allow me to check for movement over time.
View attachment 324937

View attachment 324938

After some miles and spirited riding NO MOVEMENT at all.
The marks can be removed once you are happy.
Images above taken before completion and I know the lock pin is missing from the castelated nut...:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
do not remove markers, they should look like a safety check from the factory
lock washers if used are on the screw side
 
I don't find the lock tabs that ugly, and besides, they blend in so you hardly see them. The TX500 rear wheel I adapted for my 650, been running it for about a year now and I like it .....

TX500RearFinished.jpg


Installed.jpg


It's now a far cry from what it looked like when I pulled it out of my dealer's boneyard (yes, that's mold, lol). But it was my own fault because I'm the guy who put it there .....

TX500Rear.jpg


So, why bother adapting a 500 wheel? Because it's got a cush drive sprocket .....

RrHubDone.jpg
 
5twins said:
I don't find the lock tabs that ugly, and besides, they blend in so you hardly see them. The TX500 rear wheel I adapted for my 650, been running it for about a year now and I like it .....

View attachment 324946

View attachment 324947

It's now a far cry from what it looked like when I pulled it out of my dealer's boneyard (yes, that's mold, lol). But it was my own fault because I'm the guy who put it there .....

View attachment 324948

So, why bother adapting a 500 wheel? Because it's got a cush drive sprocket .....

View attachment 324949
Click to expand...
Great job. Do you notice a big difference in the drive?
 
I have omitted the locking tabs on several of my Z1900 bikes but use blue loctite on the nuts. I even have omitted the locking tab on the engine sprocket using blue loctite in place of the tab. Rechecked them this year and they are still at the rated torque.

Your going to have to heat the nuts up with a torch if you want to remove them using red loctite but I dont see a problem other than that.
 
XSTime said:
Watching, Thinking, now Asking..
See on this Omars 19” rear wheel conversion those original fine thread sprocket bolts are nut used.
Good because I don’t like those original rear bolts anyway. So here in this example shown are the New bolts which are as long in length as can be in the holes. Clean everything. New aluminum sprocket. New lock washers. Light application of Blue..
I believe this to be safe and do intend to check for looseness often as needed to confirm that. We XS owners need to constantly check many bolts anyway right?
Seeing others preferred examples as well as input in this thread has me wondering what is overkill vs what is necessary?
Lock tabs are fugly for sureView attachment 324944
Click to expand...
Might be just my opinion, and it's worth what you are paying for it, but I would not be using lock washers like that on a sprocket or for that matter not many places. Seen too many fail over the years. My preference for soft metals would be to use a good harden steel flat washer properly tightened and maybe blue Lock-Tite.

I know it a long way from an XS650 but something like 35 or more years ago I did a ground up rebuild of my Farmall BN tractor and just for kicks I eliminated every lock washer with the possible exception of shaker proof ones on electrical connections so far I have not had one fastener or part come loose.
 
Rasputin, no, I can't say I notice much, if any, difference in the drive, but I know it's got to be easier on those damper springs on the back of the clutch hub. That was my main reason for doing it, hopefully to save those damper springs and keep them from breaking. I know it's working because I could see the hub flexing as I torqued down the sprocket bolts.

I picked up another 500 wheel cheap off eBay and plan on lacing a 16" rim to it for my Special.
 
20201220_150313.jpg
If you are learning to lockwire here are some tips.
If using standard XS rear sprocket bolts tighten them to torque. Work out which pairs of flats on the bolt head you need the holes in and mark .
Doing 2 bolts at a time. Undo the bolts drill and replace taking note which bolt came from where.

The lock wire pattern pictured above is easier for learners. The pattern in post #16 looks fantastic but is harder to replicate when learning.
You dont need fancy lockwire pliers but they are helpful.
 
OK. I admit that I dislike the bend-up tabs. I even had one fail in 2010 on a long trip. (I rode the entire BRP plus Skyline Drive and back again on my XS650SK). I’m a professional safety wirer. Why am I messing with this junk! I need drilled bolts or the tools to drill them.
 

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