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Does anyone know of a way I can check my cam chain guide with the engine in the bike? All the searching I have done points to engine out, which seems excessive.......:yikes:

I've found an E tensioner on eBay for £20, thanks for the advice. It's running nice and quiet without the damper washer at the moment so I'll run it like that until the longer rod and lock nut arrive

It is the 'upgraded' metal and rubber damper washer which is clearly the issue. It's so thick you can't see if your getting any movement, it moves the rod so far into the adjuster you can't see it.

I've now reinstalled it without part 21 the small spacer. This has had the effect of making the plunger more visible and I can tension it so I get a mm or so movement. Before it was wound to the max with no movement in the plunger.

I was looking to make sure my cam chain tension was correct on my new to me 1978. I've removed and identified the tensioner as a type D, and the manual says that it should be turned until the push rod is flush. Well there is no way that can happen as with the rod pushed into the max it's...

Thank you all for help and advice, especially Leo. I followed the fault back up the system and the trail ended at the rec/reg which I replaced with a new FZ600 part. No more blown fuses, charging well and regulating at 14.5v plus learn such a huge amount.....everyday is a school day.

In total awe....

Yep, already done and Leo's check list has proved that the brushes aren't shorting to the stator housing. Still fuse blowing though....

This is the wiring diagram that my bike appears to be based on, I have arrowed the fuse which blows as soon as I turn on the ignition.

Thank you thank you thank you Leo, here are my results. Touch one probe to the green wire in the plug. Touch the other probe to the green wire at the brushes. You should get a low ohm reading. At or very near zero. = Check very near zero Now move the probe from the green wire to the body of...

?..... I mean there is infinite resistance between the stator casing and the bushes....which is good right?

Thanks for the reply....but I'm not sure what you mean by alternator frame? Do you mean the stator casing itself? I tested between the bushes and the stator outer and there was no open circuit, as in the reading was closed.

Could this be simply the brushes are wired backwards? At this time the inner bush (black wire) is caring the switched positive charge, should it be the green? I've read so many forum articles i've confused myself!

I ran a diode test on the rectifier side and the diodes are all good. I'm still confused what the nylon screws do and how I can test if they are doing what they are supposed to. At the moment they aren't insulating the brush wires from the ground. Not sure if regarding history, I bought it...

5twins thanks for the reply. The wiring was exactly as you state but as soon as I switch on the power the main fuse blows.

Update. I just removed brushes from the wiring block (FYI they are black and green so there 70-79) clearly the system will not charge but at least now the main fuse doesn't blow when i switch it on. I then tentatively kicked it over (then vigorously) and boom started right up. Main fuse...

Leo, you sound like a man in the know. I've removed the cover and this is what I see (see attached picture). Clearly the brushes have been mounted on nylon screws. I wired it today the same as this diagram (see attached) and it just blows the 20 amp fuse from the constant + to the red in...