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Thank you for your time and help both you and Arctic! I have a leg up now with racetech :thumbsup:

Hey Jetmechmarty thank you. I will look into that service manual. On deactivating the air caps, how do you add air into the shocks without? Thanks again!

Hey Arctic, thanks for your reply. I have a clymer and when I was reading over the topic, the bike being worked and illustrated in the Clymer did not have these air connections. Would like to find a resourceful person who has serviced going over the process on how to bleed and add oil to these...

What style of pump is required to add more air to this type of shock?

Can anyone tell me what type of shocks these are, how to service them, when they should be serviced and pretty much anything to do with them would be very much appreciated.

It rode very well, so well that I didn’t want to go home! I can see how the reading would be a little more difficult to get from these style plugs but everyone says they read the tang and not the porcelain. I am running the stock exhaust but I drilled out 6 holes to allow it to breathe a little...

Okay everyone thank you all for your time and help! Looks like 5twins was correct about the needle emulsion tube Oring, it was drawing in fuel from the top causing right cylinder to run rich, replaced and on to the next. Of course my questions aren’t over quite yet… the pictures I have posted...

Alrighty. I’ll report back.

I’ve removed my carbs countless amount of times, so 2 or 3 more times until I can sleep right at night isn’t too bad as long as I get to the bottom of it! Now just to await parts.. :laugh: Passed hot water test, both sets.

Thanks , I’ll replace float and report back. Might be a stupid question but I’m assuming the new floats will sit at the needed heighth of 24mm?

I measured the resting float height. These photos are only from the suspected carb that had carbon fouled plug. When I sighted down the floats they all seemed to sit at the same height, no tweaking on them. The last photo shows a repair I did to the float which had a leak, I used a small...

Hey Gary. I checked for leaks with carb cleaner and the only leak I was getting was around the air intake boot, I noticed in my Clymer with the foam element air filter there is actually a clamp that goes around air filter side onto the carburetor. Was thinking maybe it’s sucking in more air from...

Was hoping nobody would notice :oops: When I had to retap my spark plug hole the tap went in at a very slight angle causing the seat to be off, it does not leak any compression luckily. But I am reminded of that every time I pull my plugs and it bothers the sh** out of me. Thanks for noticing...

Awesome! I placed an order for the float bowl fitting. I like your idea on the floats being tweaked, that could very well be the case I have a steel graduated ruler on my feeler gauges I will use to check instead of the gauge. Thank you for the heads up and alternate method of checking. I will...

If the carburetors are off synchronization would the plugs be this different from each other?

Thanks 5twins, I will check the float heighth. I have inspected the floats and there is no leak in these luckily. I purchased new o rings and have a nice snug fit on the needle emulsion tube. I’ll order a float level gauge and check that next.

Yes original points ignition. Pulled the wire from each plug while it was running and it fires independently. Cylinder is firing

There is a light Carmel color

Hmmm, exhaust gets just as hot as the right on startup idle, sounds and feels as though it is firing

Can anyone help point me in the right direction as to why my plugs are looking this different from each other. 1978 Xs650SE Bs38 Carbs Iridium plugs Ignition timing is spot on Stock pilot @ 27.5 stock main @ 135 all turned 2 1/4 out. Any more insight would be appreciated.