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I have an xs project I bought with a rigid frame and engine. Engine was in the frame when I bought it but I took it out to finish some tab/mount welding and to paint it. Now the engine won't fit back in. It seems like the frame is about 1/4 inch too thin on each side of the engine at the bottom...

How have people been making pivots for rear brakes? I know they sell some but I was wondering about simple homemade set ups. Also how have people set up the rear brake stays for a drum on a hardtail? And last thing, how have people been spacing the axels, I have a tcbros hardtail and it wont fit...

If it's better quality, sure. I wouldn't pay more for something just on the basis it's USA made. If a USA company wants to stand out in the world then make a product that stands out, dont charge more for the same crap as everyone else, I'm not rich enough to support you.

Anyone here have a chop with a bare metal frame? I was thinkin it might look cool and be easy to change stuff around, but don't know how to keep it from rusting. Wd40 it every once in a while?

I never understood the visual appeal of no brakes, it looks clean yes, but when I see safety stuff removed for looks I usually think it'll be a trailer queen. No signals and stuff is fine, but when I see a chop with a nice modern brake system I assume it's a bike that's going to be ridden hard...

I've had my 80 special with pod filters and shorty mufflers up to 90 and I still had a bit before redline, would think I could have hit 110 if I kept pushing, but might have blown up also.

It's a 80 special. Not sure exactly what carbs, stock for that year as far as I know. Stock ignition, only changes have been pod filters and short mufflers, but it ran great up till this.

I've tried starting my bike the last two days and it is being real rough. Got it to run once but it was idling real low and then died when I put the choke in some. Since then it won't run. Tried to start it and it was making smoggy puffs. Gave up. Tried it today, and it blew the carb off on one...

This is what I've been planning on doing for a fender mount, where did you find those brackets?

Anyone know where you can get a smaller and cleaner looking master cylinder? I want to replace my stock levers with a set of nice minimal chrome ones, but want the brake and clutch to match, and I havet really seen much for after market brake cylinders.

It's a sort of bracket the shocks bolt into and then that bolts into where the shocks would, slides back where the shocks go. Haven't noticed any change in the ride really. Look like this:

Is there anything between a full face and 3/4? I have both but prefer the 3/4, like the wind in my face. I was thinking something like a football kickers helmet, open faced but with a lower chin bar. Sort of a full face with a bigger opening.

Took the long seat pan I made, riveted some vinyl on. Also got lowering blocks on it now, brings the shocks down to about 10.5".

I've wondered this too, I usually just use regular, should I be running premium? It gets such good MPG another 20 cents a gallon doesn't really bother me. Whats that, another $60 cents per 120 miles or so?

Looking for forks for an 1981, 4" or 6" over. Either would work for me.

Unfortunately I didn't do the welds so I can say how they were done. Got the bike from a guy who got the frame from someone else. And I suppose it's true, they don't look any worse than the stock welds on my 80 frame and I'm not exactly gentle with it.

Should I get this fixed at a shop or is it safe as is?

I dont think it's a butt joint, the tc bros hardtails come with slugs for the bottom rails.

Is PVC strong enough? It seems like it might crack on a big bump?

I just picked up a project bike, with a tcbros hardtail. The welds don't look particularly good to me however. They don't look horrible either. Could it be they just weren't grinded or smoothed out much? This will be my learning as I go build, and want to start off with a strong frame.