Your video nicely illustrates why I don't like using the "static" method for adjusting the chain tension. You'll notice that most of the time, the plunger is inset inside the adjuster screw but occasionally, it pops out past the end. So, according to the shop manual "static" adjustment method, you would loosen the adjuster to make the plunger flush with it's end. Now, rotate the engine some more and this will happen again, so you loosen the adjuster more. Keep turning the motor over by hand and this will keep happening, and you'll end up with a setting that's way too loose. You have to ignore that occasional pop out and just go by how the plunger is sitting the rest of the time.
Why does this happen? Well, normally while turning the motor over by hand, turning the crank CCW by the rotor nut, tension is put on the front run of the cam chain because the crank is pulling down on it to turn the cam. Cam chain slack is all in the rear run and the tensioner can be set. But you'll notice a couple times during the engine's rotation where it runs on by itself without you needing to turn the crank. As valve springs force valves closed, they push on their rockers which push on the cam lobes and turn the cam by itself. When this happens, the crank isn't turning the engine anymore, the cam is, and this shifts the cam chain tension to the rear run of the chain. This is what causes the occasional "pop out" of the plunger and why you need to ignore it.
So, taking this all into account, let's take another look at your video. Ignoring that occasional "pop out", the plunger in-out movement may be a bit much, and the plunger may not be coming out flush with the end of the adjuster screw. I'd say the chain is a little loose. But to be sure, start the motor and observe the plunger movement and position as the bike sits there idling. With the motor running you won't get that occasional big pop out, it's spinning too fast for that to happen. Like I said, this adjustment method is foolproof.