750 kit troubles, who has done it before?

Rexxis

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So I've got the pistons hanging out of the bottom of the cylinders and the cylinder block abt two or three inches down onto the studs and it has become very difficult to get the block to slide down any further onto the studs. I tapped on it lightly w my rubber mallet but it doesn't seem to want to go any further. I don't want to force anything and it seems more difficult than it should be. Any ideas or info?
 
Just take a look at the bottom where it slides down the studs and see if there is one or 2 that seem a little bit mis-aligned try just pushing on them they have some flex Ive had to do that before and I dont think its specific to the 750 thing.. worth checking anyhow, I wouldnt go using force or a hammer at least not until you have thoroughly investigated whats hanging it up...
 
Once I stepped away for a sec I figured it out. When I was walking back up to the engine immediately after I made that first post, I could tell the block was leaning to one side and binding on the studs. Sometimes you just gotta step away for a sec and the answer will present itself.:thumbsup:
 
Also Mikes 750 kit doesn't have the grove around the bottem of the barrels and doesn't need the seals like the 650 barrels have
 
Yep, I figured that one out all by myself.:D The kit didn't come w any plus the old ones are too small and there's no groove for them to sit in.

Thanks for the wise words Skull and Robbo. :thumbsup:
 
The sweet spot where vibration seems non existant drops to a lower RPM Mine is around 3500 with 17 and 32 sprockets I like it. What I don't like about the kit is the cam chain tunnel witch leaves little room for adjustment after the chain streches. Perhaps Rexxis could tell us how mutch his has before he puts on the rocker box.
 
Ok, keep in mind my bike isn't running yet and wont be for a while still. I'm pretty much right in the middle of my build.

The plunger bolt starts to get snug with abt 1/2 an ich left behind the locking nut. In other words there is abt half an inch of threads left to thread the domed nut on behind the lock nut. I'm not sure what a correctly tensioned chain should feel like since this is my first XS so a definite answer won't be available until the bike is running and I can properly adjust the tension but my best guess as of right now is abt half an inch of threads sticking out behind the lock nut.

Any q's, jus ask!
 
The adjuster threads is not what I was looking at you have to look down inside the rear chain tunnel and how much space you have before the rear guide hits the cylinder true final adjustment.
 
Oh, well damnit, I've already got the top end all put back together. This is my first time around w the XS so I guess it'll have to wait till next time...which will probably be quite some time... hopefully.
 
Well from looking at pictures in your build thread they might have changed the design I bought the kit first production run and it has been a couple of years since I looked at it.
 
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