Kyleshep49
XS650 Addict
How can i tell if the oil is getting circulated properly also? The bike didn’t have anything in the air filter (side) i added it in. Wondering why the oil was coming out that side cover (not much very little)
Ok great, letting the bike cool off and I’ll try these things later. I have a 2 year old so i work on my bike in 10 min increments whenever it’s even possibleThere should be two pins in that side. One locks that aluminum part to the advance rod, the other locks it to the cam. Once that aluminum part is slid onto and locked into the two pins, there should be no way for them to fall out. I'd pull that aluminum part off and try the install again.
Take a close look at the head gasket, it may be the leak source. If you haven't done so, a head bolt re-torque is probably needed.
Hey so got the pin back in the cam again and putting together i think i may have a defective part cause the slot on my plate thing goes all the way through so the pin could come out. Is there a fix i could do like aluminum tape? I’ll call mikes for correct part to if i need toThere should be two pins in that side. One locks that aluminum part to the advance rod, the other locks it to the cam. Once that aluminum part is slid onto and locked into the two pins, there should be no way for them to fall out. I'd pull that aluminum part off and try the install again.
Take a close look at the head gasket, it may be the leak source. If you haven't done so, a head bolt re-torque is probably needed.
Do you have any ideas of how to keep it in? I was thinking loctite, a little force or tap and then what? Is it stupid to use a couple winds of aluminum tape? Or will it get to hot inside there? I couldn’t really clamp it without making it heavy on a side and through it off. I don’t know i wish i could find an older style one that was sealedWell, that sounds like B.S. to me. I don't think the pins are tapered at all, I've never heard that before. I never encountered a taper on any I've installed, they fit in either way. All the stock components have the pin slot covered, or in the case of the advance unit backing plate, there's a pin pressed into it above that pin in the cam .....
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I think you're going to continue having issues with that pin falling out unless you figure out a way to block it in somehow. It's going to have centrifugal force constantly working on it, trying to fling it out.
This is what i am running for oil. Is this good for my clutch? I had seen some guys running it on here i thought when i originally looked it up. I’m my Honda XL250R tracker i run a Honda oil that works really good, maybe i should go to thatSounds good . it is a bit retarded ( late ) but very little I believe ..but I have is so also runs softer.
Throttle response looks better.
One can always search for the last ..little thing ..but it takes time and compromises must be made in real life
It can change with heat and after running a while there can be a need for fine tuning
Clutch slipping can need adjustment to fix
And be sure it is the right oil for wet clutches
Ok, i think I’ll drain this and grab some oil specific like i did on my Honda. I may run the same stuff as it works really good with my wet clutch, my Honda is a 82 so same time frame as my Yamaha so maybe it will work goodWell i am no expert and don't know what is available
Synthetic is something I don't like
I have as a rule to only use fluids that was available when the bike was designed .
That is for the risk of chemicals causing problems . Chemicals that not existed when the bike was designed
As recently been discussed ethanol in fuel
I run 20 W - 50 mineral and change rather often
And I suppose we have cooler climate here so you in Florida perhaps would go to thicker rather than thinner oil
Having said that I believe an adjustement can do the trick