a couple questions

newell

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I have a 79 special that I have brought back to the land of the living, and I was attempting to get it ready for the season and after a few attempts with the kickstarter, i went to push the starter down and it felt like the gears did not grab, it was spongy, not like when then clutch is pulled but almost like stepping in mud, if that makes any scense... the electric starter doesn't work so I only have the kick starter... how difficult is it to replace the starter gears and/or the kickstarter gear... also there was a puddle of oil under it after sitting inside this winter and i cleaned the bottom of the motor and the puddle came back after a couple days of sitting in a new spot... in my attempts to start the bike as well, the right side was warm after a bit of sputtering and the left side was not warm at all... I have the Pamco system and am now confused as to why that would happen only on one side:wtf:
 
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- sounds like the clip
an015_02_jpg.jpg


- maybe read here too
 
Yep, sounds like that to me also. Where is the puddle located, on the left, right, front, rear. Plugs ok? Of course you got the twin tower coil, both plug wires good, along with the caps?
 
the puddle is in the middle of the bike, the oil looks like it is dropping off of the big hex head under the bike. plugs, wires and caps were all new last season with limited riding on the bike after they were put on. the coil that I have is the one from the basic pamco kit not the big green monster. the kit is 14-0901 if that helps.
 
Ok, the oil leak could be something as simple as the drain plug gasket.Most of us here change the oil & filters in the spring. It also could be the sump gasket, which would be changed if you are goping to do the oil & filter change.
Try swapping the sparkplugs from side to side & see if the dead cylinder follows, they should both be warm(cylinders). Plugs are cheap enough, esp. at autozone or advanced.
 
well i checked the spark plugs today, i have spark on the right but not the left, checked with spare plugs grounded on motor... also how hard is it to do the kickstarter and electric start? should I do them both at the same time?
 
- kickstart isnt so hard...drain the oil, remove foot brake, peg and kick lever

- have a read here

- i always remove the e-start
 
any ideas on the spark issue would be great as well... like i said before I have the Pamco system and it was running well at the end of the fall, I put sta-bil in the tank and carbs and when I tried to start it last week there was warmth on the right but not the left... I( tried to switch the plugs and got nothing and then tested for spark on both sides and had spark on the right and not the left, I tried the cap, and the coil I have comes with the kit from Mikes for around $100.... thanks
 
anyone have ideas with the spark issue on this bike?? I have tired everything that I know of on it and still nothing....thanks
 
newell, if you have a double tower coil, & spark only on one side, then the coil is bad. However, before you condemn the coil, swap out the plug wire assy. from one side to the other. If the spark follows the wires, then it's a wire issue. If at any time you did not have the coil side thats not working either on a sparkplug in the engine or grounded for testing, you could have shorted that side.
 
figured I would look into replacing the sump filter and found this beauty when I took the cover off... also cleaned the filter on the Right side of the motor and found black fragments that were hard possibly metal or plastic in the filter. have not had a lot of time to work on the bike yet, i have the gasket and new sump filter already as well as the starter gear and clip for the kicker... just have to have some time away from all the baseball and softball games, coming down to the end of the school year... so I wll hopefully get to that soon... I will keep you updated...
 

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Well assuming that's what it is and more than likely it is I think you have to do a partial engine tear down but there may be a diff way. Maybe some others can chime in on this issue
 
First off, that is the classic tear in the sump filter. The black bit's are probably plastic pieces from the front cam chain guide. Both classic examples of the weakest spot on these engines. No, the guide will not really hurt anything, but will ned up where you found them. The screen on the sump. They were in the side because of the tear in the sump filter. It all depends on what kinda milage you figure on doing this season. Less than 10,000, I would put off the guide until the winter..Change your oil every 1000-1200 miles, and wash out the sump when you do with a can of brake clean. Have a spare sump filter for when you change the oil in case another tear happens.
Oh, to be sure they are plastic, burn them with a lighter..Aluminium won't burn that easy.
 
Thanks for the knowledge... I was only planning maybe 2-3k miles this season, don't do a lot of open road stuff, I have a new sump filter and gasket for it that will go in tomorrow. how intensive is the kick start/electric start job, is it something I can do in an hour to an hour and a half or so?? How difficult are the front brakes on these as well?? Mine I believe is stuck, the reservoir on the handle bars has a scuff that looks like the bike was laid down, I have put fluid in and it seems to just be gone... it seems as if the front caliper is dragging, any hints or ideas on this would be great, I might just take it to the local Kawi dealer (no Yami in town) and have them do the brakes for me, I have done car disc brakes but there is just something that makes me nervous about the bike brakes...
 
newell, have a look at the links INXS has posted up for you in this thread. Those will give you all the instructions for repairing either starter, kick or electric. Unfortunately, neither one is a half hour job. The easiest one is the kicker, the electric is allot more complicated for removal & repair.
Have you gotten to ride the bike yet? If yes, does the clutch slip, as that could be the problem with the kicker. The kicker turns the clutch, which in turn spins the engine. If the clutch slips, your pedal will feel mushy. Also, a clutch adjustment is an easy operation, and should take maybe a half hour.
You start by first screwing the handle lever adjustment(on the cable that attaches to the lever) all the way in. BTW, best done with a warm engine. Then on the left engine cover is a small chrome cover, about the size of a silver dollar. Remove that, and you will see a screw with a nut attached to it. Loosen the nut( 12mm socket)and while holding the nut with a wrench now instead of the socket ( the socket was to get a good grip on the nut so you could loosen it without stripping the nut)Turn the screw in (clockwise)until it gets harder to turn. That adjusts the worm gear lever that pushes in the pushrod to release the clutch. If you turn the screw too much, you will know by th 'feel' of the screw, you just want to remove the free play from the lever to the push rod. Once you get the 'feel' take up the slack between the worm gear and push rod. Then back off the screw abou 1/16-1/8 of a turn. Hold the screw in place with the screwdriver, and lock down the 12mm nut with the open end wrench , trying NOT to turn the screw you just adjusted. A little is ok.
Back at the handlebars, You should have about 10mm of play before the lever begins to pull in the clutch. Adjust the cable screw for the free play you want.

Now try your kicker. Work better? Let us know. And good luck, don't worry about getting it 'right' as the adjustment can be a little tricky until you do it a couple times.:doh::eek::yikes::wtf::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:The front brakes can be a bear, esp. if you got a stuck piston, First try 'flushing' the system with new fluid, as allot of crap get's in there because brake fluid absorbs water. Flush the fluid until new, clean fluid is coming out the caliper. Pump up the lever when done until it feels solid, then see if the wheel turns ok. there should be some drag but you should be able to turn the wheel by hand. If that dooes not help, your probably going to need to rebuid both the caliper and master cylinder.
BTW, do NOT spill brake fluid onto any painted surface, it will remove the paint!!!
 
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