advice on case refinishing

[jonasblack]

So, after a long day of FINALLY getting off the plastic and rubber which my girlfriend's shoes had left on my beautiful chrome. I realized that easy off definitely gets rid of rubber, but it completely etches the casing. After loads of research I read that olive oil will take care of the chemical reaction stains, it does the job and it looks okay, but not perfect.

Now, I am setting my sights on completely refinishing the surface areas of the casing to a nice shiny look. Has anyone done this? I am assuming that I will need to sand and buff like crazy, but which grades of sandpaper should I use, which compound, and what buffer works well that is moderately priced?

any input would be appreciated! stay up!

 

[NONclow]

Good luck, but the cases, cylinders and head/head cover are sand cast not forged, so the aluminum will likely have air pockets (bubbles) in random spots. While sanding you'll probably uncover a few "craters". To get a smooth finish more material needs to be removed. Time consuming to say the least. A good natural cast appearance can be achieved by glass beading and clear coating, sand blasting has a chance to warp the alum due to heat. Or there is paint. VHT makes some good high heat colors. But... the alternator (LH) cover, clutch (RH) cover, and all four valve/rocker adjuster caps [which are clear anodized from the factory (and after 30+ years are either dull or flaking)] can be polished. I'd start with 220 grit (depending on how rough they are, maybe even 80 or 150 then 220), then 400, 600, 1000, 1500 grit sequentially, even 2000 if desired. Then polish with Blue Magic, Mothers, or whatever you prefer. Have "fun"

 

[jonasblack]

thank you for your response! Yeah, I will predominantly be working with the covers. The rest of it I am going to paint silver. Yamaha actually has a great aerosol silver paint that looks natural, the second best thing to an actual polish job. I will post pictures of the polish when done. Thank you!