Swingarm bushings are all about maintenance, if they are greased regularly they'll go a lot of miles and be just fine. OTOH I had a 10K miles 83 with a 1/4" of swing arm side slop, no grease when I pulled it apart.
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Thanks RG I needed to hear that!
That's so true Gary. It's sad that a lot of these bikes received almost no maintenance over the years.
I wonder if some of the bikes were never greased, as they traveled down the assembly line at the factory???
I think a lot of that can be attributed to the "newbie factor". This was a very affordable "big" bike back in the day and many first time owners/riders ended up with them. The cycle continued as they were sold used at reasonable prices to another new rider. These folks barely knew how to ride, let alone maintain a motorcycle properly.
The "plastic" bushings on my TX750 swingarm were like new and are still fine after several years of service. That's the beauty of many of the TX750 chassis parts you find. The motors crapped out so quickly, the running gear barely saw 4 or 5K miles, lol.
The "plastic" bushings on my TX750 swingarm were like new and are still fine after several years of service. That's the beauty of many of the TX750 chassis parts you find. The motors crapped out so quickly, the running gear barely saw 4 or 5K miles, lol.
maybe a reason for so many surviving was that they may have been considered pretty much worthless as used in line 4's came on the market and the 650's were relegated to the back corner of the shed?
And at half the price, maybe one might consider OEM replacements as opposed to the new rave brass?
Good idea. I might consider using OEM next time after having considerable issues with tolerances when I replaced with brass (purchased from Mike's) on my '76.
Joe24
XS650 Enthusiast
Well!
I got her, and we're cruising. Completed the list of things to do, and now we're looking pretty decent.
A few minor oil leaks, and one of the petcocks leaking.
I have two other concerns. My right signals don't work on idle, not enough power. Guessing a new battery would boost my power? It works 80-90% of the time when RPM is higher, but my last turn in yesterday, it did not.
Most of the bike is stock, though some of the fuses were changed out. This winter I'll change out all the electrical.
Any quick fix on the turn signals?
Also, there is a pivot type bolt on the back that is spinning- is that normal? I'll attach a photo of it. It spins freely. Is it a shoulder type bolt? Codder pin is in and good.
Thank you for all the help. First few rides have been a blast. I love the bike, though she's a little loud!
Clymer Manual is set for delivery soon!
I got her, and we're cruising. Completed the list of things to do, and now we're looking pretty decent.
A few minor oil leaks, and one of the petcocks leaking.
I have two other concerns. My right signals don't work on idle, not enough power. Guessing a new battery would boost my power? It works 80-90% of the time when RPM is higher, but my last turn in yesterday, it did not.
Most of the bike is stock, though some of the fuses were changed out. This winter I'll change out all the electrical.
Any quick fix on the turn signals?
Also, there is a pivot type bolt on the back that is spinning- is that normal? I'll attach a photo of it. It spins freely. Is it a shoulder type bolt? Codder pin is in and good.
Thank you for all the help. First few rides have been a blast. I love the bike, though she's a little loud!
Clymer Manual is set for delivery soon!
Attachments
Hi joe,
most likely a new battery will fix the signal problem, you'll also find the bike starts and runs a bit better.
Yes, that's a shoulder bolt and it's supposed to turn like that so the brake torque arm can swivel as the wheel moves when you adjust the chain tension.
Two fixes for loud exhaust. Spend big bucks on a new exhaust system or a modest sum on a pack of disposable ear plugs.
Make that three. Ignore the noise and get an increasing amount of industrial hearing loss like the rest of us.
There is an advantage to this:- industrial deafness mostly loses hearing acuity in the same frequency range as female voices.
most likely a new battery will fix the signal problem, you'll also find the bike starts and runs a bit better.
Yes, that's a shoulder bolt and it's supposed to turn like that so the brake torque arm can swivel as the wheel moves when you adjust the chain tension.
Two fixes for loud exhaust. Spend big bucks on a new exhaust system or a modest sum on a pack of disposable ear plugs.
Make that three. Ignore the noise and get an increasing amount of industrial hearing loss like the rest of us.
There is an advantage to this:- industrial deafness mostly loses hearing acuity in the same frequency range as female voices.
The wiring in these bikes is usually in need of a good cleaning by now. Your signals have ground wires with ring terminals under their mounting bolts. Clean those, the bulb sockets, and the signal wire connector plugs, and maybe they'll start flashing at idle again.
Hi 5twins,
you are absolutely correct and I really should have included that in my post too.
However, if joe's battery is the one that came with the bike and it's age isn't known, a new battery will improve things.
Both my son and myself replaced our XS650's batteries this spring and the bikes now fire up and run better than when we parked them last fall.
RPC3
XS650 Addict
Hi Fred,
If you have the tools it'd be a good time to check the bike's charging system as well, that might be contributing to the weak flashing signals at idle. I've had my XS for 2 years and while some stuff was done just because or to be safe, most stuff needed to be done. In somewhat of an order I've had to do:
clutch push rod seal, new brake pads front/rear, braided steel brakeline, rebuilt front caliper, new master cylinder/brake lever off a TW250, a few gaskets, tach drive seal, new wiring harness (all grounds cleaned), cleaned the grounds/contacts in my handlebar switches, new fuel line/filters, fully cleaned the carbs + throttle shaft seal replacements and re-jetted the bike, modern (reliable) rectifier/regulator, new battery (with a tender to keep it charged over the winter), new chain + sprockets, PAMCO with e-advancer + new coil, new carbon brushes/cleaned the rotor/verified charging system was working, new oil filter/sump filter, plenty of oil changes.
Some things still on my list to do: New headlight/LED taillight, crankshaft seals, new seat, new clutch/throttle cables. And oh yeah, ride it a bit more as well...
Obviously you wont have to do all of this (maybe less, maybe different stuff, maybe more), but I can say that everything you need to get the bike to the next step is on this site, so use it religiously. An old shop-manual was also very helpful (I have a clymers as well, but the actual Yamaha shop manual has been more helpful regarding torque specs and basic maintenance). Good luck and enjoy
If you have the tools it'd be a good time to check the bike's charging system as well, that might be contributing to the weak flashing signals at idle. I've had my XS for 2 years and while some stuff was done just because or to be safe, most stuff needed to be done. In somewhat of an order I've had to do:
clutch push rod seal, new brake pads front/rear, braided steel brakeline, rebuilt front caliper, new master cylinder/brake lever off a TW250, a few gaskets, tach drive seal, new wiring harness (all grounds cleaned), cleaned the grounds/contacts in my handlebar switches, new fuel line/filters, fully cleaned the carbs + throttle shaft seal replacements and re-jetted the bike, modern (reliable) rectifier/regulator, new battery (with a tender to keep it charged over the winter), new chain + sprockets, PAMCO with e-advancer + new coil, new carbon brushes/cleaned the rotor/verified charging system was working, new oil filter/sump filter, plenty of oil changes.
Some things still on my list to do: New headlight/LED taillight, crankshaft seals, new seat, new clutch/throttle cables. And oh yeah, ride it a bit more as well...
Obviously you wont have to do all of this (maybe less, maybe different stuff, maybe more), but I can say that everything you need to get the bike to the next step is on this site, so use it religiously. An old shop-manual was also very helpful (I have a clymers as well, but the actual Yamaha shop manual has been more helpful regarding torque specs and basic maintenance). Good luck and enjoy
Well!
I got her, and we're cruising. Completed the list of things to do, and now we're looking pretty decent.
A few minor oil leaks, and one of the petcocks leaking.
I have two other concerns. My right signals don't work on idle, not enough power. Guessing a new battery would boost my power? It works 80-90% of the time when RPM is higher, but my last turn in yesterday, it did not.
Most of the bike is stock, though some of the fuses were changed out. This winter I'll change out all the electrical.
Any quick fix on the turn signals?
Also, there is a pivot type bolt on the back that is spinning- is that normal? I'll attach a photo of it. It spins freely. Is it a shoulder type bolt? Codder pin is in and good.
Thank you for all the help. First few rides have been a blast. I love the bike, though she's a little loud!
Clymer Manual is set for delivery soon!
For those right side signals, follow 5twins advice. Any corrosion in the bulb sockets, bullet connectors and/or grounds, causes high resistance and the resulting no flash condition. Clean them well.
Its not a case of a new battery boosting power. A battery will only reach as high a voltage as the charging system puts into it. If the charging system only goes up to say 13.4 volts, as an example, then the strongest battery in the world, will still only reach 13.4 volts. You need to have the charging system go up to at least 14.1 volts when the engine revs up to 3000 rpm or more.
If you want to guarantee that the signals will work at all times, even with a low idle rpm, buy a Tridon HD12 flasher unit. Unlike the stock flasher, it will flash the signals at very low voltage, even down to 11 volts. Its works on a different principle;
capacitior charge time. The Tridon HD12 ensures safety. When sitting at a busy intersection, waiting to make a left hand turn, you don't want your signals to quit flashing.
Joe24
XS650 Enthusiast
Great tips! Thank you everyone. I very much appreciate every bit of advice.
I ended up having to put in a new battery, for reasons I'll explain later, but it didn't fix the signal problem.
Here's what happened to me yesterday: whilst driving in traffic, I had a backfire and the left side of the carb came loose. I didn't realize this right away, and continued trying to start the bike, which depleted the old lead battery.
When I did realize the carb was out, I reinstalled it, and let it idle, forgetting she's running at a decifit of charge while idling.
Battery died. Wouldn't start. Left bike downtown and taxi'd to work. That night a quick switch of the battery solved my problem of starting.
It's charging at 12.75 around 2000 rpm. So that needs work.
Cleaned the right bulb, but that did not solve our problem. So, once my clymers manual shows up, I'll Investigate more of the electrical.
And, as to the carb blowing off, we'll see if tightening the gear clamps makes a difference.
All in all. I am having a blast fooling around with it. I've attached a photo so you can see the new Handlebars.
I ended up having to put in a new battery, for reasons I'll explain later, but it didn't fix the signal problem.
Here's what happened to me yesterday: whilst driving in traffic, I had a backfire and the left side of the carb came loose. I didn't realize this right away, and continued trying to start the bike, which depleted the old lead battery.
When I did realize the carb was out, I reinstalled it, and let it idle, forgetting she's running at a decifit of charge while idling.
Battery died. Wouldn't start. Left bike downtown and taxi'd to work. That night a quick switch of the battery solved my problem of starting.
It's charging at 12.75 around 2000 rpm. So that needs work.
Cleaned the right bulb, but that did not solve our problem. So, once my clymers manual shows up, I'll Investigate more of the electrical.
And, as to the carb blowing off, we'll see if tightening the gear clamps makes a difference.
All in all. I am having a blast fooling around with it. I've attached a photo so you can see the new Handlebars.
Attachments
Last edited:
If you still have the original mechanical regulator, then you can adjust it to see if it brings up the charge when revving.
Here's a great link on how to do it:
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11182
Here's a great link on how to do it:
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11182
Joe24
XS650 Enthusiast
I imagine mine still has the original mechanical reg. This bike is very stock besides athestics.
Thank you for the link. Hopefully next week I find some time to tinker.
I took apart my exhaust to see what is going on, only to find out there are no baffles. Aftermarket commando type have been installed.
I'm finding it too loud, so I was going to look into installing baffles.
What do I need to know? Performance issues? How much sound loss?
Cheers!
Thank you for the link. Hopefully next week I find some time to tinker.
I took apart my exhaust to see what is going on, only to find out there are no baffles. Aftermarket commando type have been installed.
I'm finding it too loud, so I was going to look into installing baffles.
What do I need to know? Performance issues? How much sound loss?
Cheers!
Pretty sure there's a few threads on making baffles..and tons on performance gain discussions...sound is subjective, but likely a bit more tame with them in.
you may find THESE are the baffles for it. Still pretty loud get [URL="http://www.mikesxs.net/parts/yamaha-xs650-commando-style-universal-megaphone-muffler-26"]THESE[/URL]
Those are a pretty loud muffler you have there. My buddy tried them but didn't keep them long because of the noise. He got them barely used for a good price from another guy who was selling them for the very same reason. The Commando muffler Skull linked to is wonderful. Nice throaty sound but not too loud at all. I think the longer muffler looks much better than a shorty too.
Here's a better revised drawing on reg adjusting. I added more info .....
My dealer called me over the winter. He had a 650 with charging problems that he couldn't figure out. I stopped in, bringing some spare good regs and recs I had. His problem was pretty obvious to me right off the bat. He had installed '80 and newer style brushes and a combo reg/rec but the bike was a '79. It went from barely charging to not charging at all, lol. We put the original inner brush back in and plugged in a VR115 reg I brought. The thing charged like a champ. Since it was charging a little with the original reg, I showed him the above diagram and suggested an adjustment. That's all it took. We got it charging fine with the original in no time.
Here's a better revised drawing on reg adjusting. I added more info .....
My dealer called me over the winter. He had a 650 with charging problems that he couldn't figure out. I stopped in, bringing some spare good regs and recs I had. His problem was pretty obvious to me right off the bat. He had installed '80 and newer style brushes and a combo reg/rec but the bike was a '79. It went from barely charging to not charging at all, lol. We put the original inner brush back in and plugged in a VR115 reg I brought. The thing charged like a champ. Since it was charging a little with the original reg, I showed him the above diagram and suggested an adjustment. That's all it took. We got it charging fine with the original in no time.
