trying to figure out what wire goes to what ( no instructions).. what would be the best way to do this?...a test light...if so how would it be done for this...looked at you tube videos. ..but may somebody knows an easier way. 
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aftermarket handle bar switch help
- Thread starter payaso13
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- electrical
trying to figure out what wire goes to what ( no instructions).. what would be the best way to do this?...a test light...if so how would it be done for this...looked at you tube videos. ..but may somebody knows an easier way. I'm not sure right now bikes at frie house...but I understand what you're thinking. ..just see what goes to what...next time I see it I'll check. If not what would be the next thing? I'll gather more info on wires and if I can open it up tomorrow.
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There would be three wires for the signals, one feed in from the flasher(brown/ white) and two out for left and right signals. There would also be three for the hi/LO beam, one feed in and one for the hi, one for the low. Probable two for the horn, one power in and one to the horn. I would use an ohm meter to check continuity between the wires.
You can buy a cheap volt/ohm meter ($10-$20) almost anywhere. With the meter in the lowest ohm mode (200), if you touch the leads together the meter will go to zero or almost zero. Now flip one of your switches like the high/LO beam to LO beam. Now start touching the wires with the ohm meter leads. When you get to the pair for that function the meter will again go to about zero, indicating you have a connection. Write down the wire colors and switch to high beam. Check again for the correct pair for that function. You should have one wire that is common between the two functions. That is your power feed in. The other two go to your hi and LO beam terminals on your headlight. Do the same for the signal and horn switches.
View attachment 46250 trying to figure out what wire goes to what ( no instructions).. what would be the best way to do this?...a test light...if so how would it be done for this...looked at you tube videos. ..but may somebody knows an easier way.
Hi payaso,
if your aftermarket switch is anything like the one I have in my bits'n'pieces box, it's got real skinny wiring, looks to be no more than 22 ga.
You may be better off using it to trigger relays to switch heavier wires to your lights etc. that to try feeding the power directly.
weaselbeak
XS650 Junkie
This is from memory
There are 3 wires for the headlight. I think the yellow feeds the headlights with bright blue as the bright light and the white wire as the dim. The yellow wire is the hotwire feeding the switch for the headlights. It is possible that I have the yellow and white backwards, so heads up there. The gray wire feeds the turn signals. The output wires for the signals are the light blue and the orange, you'll have to figure out which is which, you only need to cross them if you get it wrong. What's left are horn related, I never got that far because the bright light wire was being annoyingly intermittent, and I junked the damn thing as the bright side worked less than 1/2 the time, and a disassembly inspection did not yield results. Sometimes it would pass juice, most of the time not. The build quality was crap. I also despised the off-dim-bright button. It should have been dim-off-bright. It was very easy to shut the light off when trying to drop the switch halfway down to dim. With dim at the bottom and bright at the top it would have been no problem, you could fish for off instead. I did not like it at all.
There are 3 wires for the headlight. I think the yellow feeds the headlights with bright blue as the bright light and the white wire as the dim. The yellow wire is the hotwire feeding the switch for the headlights. It is possible that I have the yellow and white backwards, so heads up there. The gray wire feeds the turn signals. The output wires for the signals are the light blue and the orange, you'll have to figure out which is which, you only need to cross them if you get it wrong. What's left are horn related, I never got that far because the bright light wire was being annoyingly intermittent, and I junked the damn thing as the bright side worked less than 1/2 the time, and a disassembly inspection did not yield results. Sometimes it would pass juice, most of the time not. The build quality was crap. I also despised the off-dim-bright button. It should have been dim-off-bright. It was very easy to shut the light off when trying to drop the switch halfway down to dim. With dim at the bottom and bright at the top it would have been no problem, you could fish for off instead. I did not like it at all.
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