Anyone got a list of parts needed for a complete engine build ?

[peanut]

This will be my first XS650 engine rebuild and to be honest I'm far more at home with car engines .I bought the engine stripped and blasted in boxes so I haven't even got the advantage of stripping the thing


Has anyone ever compiled a full list which I can use as a basic check list of new parts for my build ?

 

[Brian902]

Short answer, NO.

Peanut
You have a large task ahead of you, but if you're already experienced building car engines, that will be a big help.

Tough part here is, do you have ALL the parts? Hard to know when someone else has taken it apart. Issue is, one part can be very expensive and drive your budget into overdrive.

My first step would be to purchase a Clymer or Haynes workshop manual that covers the year of your motorcycle. Online versions are also available but a printed version will be very handy to have at the work bench.

Do you have access to parts like a MikesXS over in the UK? Yamaha dealers will be able to supply some things but not many, still worth a try if you are stuck. Can be expensive. But if you fix car engines you know all about the factory and after-market parts situations.

Crank – specs in manual will give you a good indication of wear and top end rod and piston pin clearance is much like any engine, needs to be very tight and no wear on pin or gouges in small end rod bearing.

Transmission – look for worn shift forks and round dogs on the gears where one meshes into the other. Shift for wear should be even on both sides of both forks, if not it indicates bent forks.

Clutch – steel plates are usually good, fibers are easily replaced now or after, even with engine in frame.

Pistons – same as cars, check for clearance, if too much, go 1st over size or whatever it takes to bring things back into factory specs.

Cams – again look for wear cause from low oil or lack of oil changes, look at rocker arms for looseness at pivot or excessive wear on the follower the runs on the cam itself.

Valves – like a car engine, look for bad guides, leak test, have the lapped and or valve seats re-cut.

Cam Chain – probably replace, not real expensive and if the engine has any miles at all now is the best time to do it.

Cam Chain Guides – front guide wears the most but both need to be in good shape and can’t be done later, so if in doubt, replace.

Charging System – usually requires new brushes that are available and not a costly item. This can be done later, so check after she’s up and running for the 13.5 volts at 2,000rpm is easy.

Seal Kit – must have.

Gasket Kit – musts have.

Carbs – good clean up, being careful not to rip the diaphragms. Much like a good clean up on any carb system. Close attention to the slow speed circuit, it’s the smallest so plugs the easiest, and get rid of all the green/brown gunk that gets left behind from years of sitting.

Ignition – new points and condensors always a good start, with plugs of course.

Oil Pump – check the manual for clearances. Pretty tough unit, usually okay.

Sump Pump Filter – usually trash, newer ones have better reinforced screen, replace.

I worked on motorcycles for years and re-doing the XS650SE 1978 was probably the most enjoyable and fun thing if done in years. Mine had 45,000 km so was in nice original shape before I got at it.

Take your time, study up on this great engine and enjoy. Most of this is the same for any engine, you're looking for good fitting rods, cylinder wear, piston wear, worn or loose bearings. It's a 4 stroke engine and other than the overhead cam with a chain all the other parts function like a car engine. Most car guys love working on bikes because they don't have to lean over a fender all day.

This site is the best forum in my opinion and has lots of experts that can help you.
I'm sure you will have more replies.

Warning: Had a guy here chrome his clutch cover and before doing so he removed oil pump drive gear. He happily put new shiny clutch cover on with no gear to drive oil pump. Rode until it would not run or start, forget which it was. Loud pipes so he didn’t hear the rattle. When I got to see the engine, there was a ¼” deep groove in each of the cam lobes due to lack of lubrication. We didn’t go any further; engine is now a boat anchor.

Good luck
Brian

 

[Mister Mellow]

Brian, that was a good answer, worthy of keeping with a shop manual as a kind work plan or checklist.

 

[peanut]

Brian wow thats an incredable response thank you very much. I'm simply blown away by the generous help and advice on this forum . My apologies for the delay in getting back to you I was looking for parts all night !

Yesterday after posting I went to the garage and sorted through all the boxes and organised the bits as best I could into some sort of methodical build order.

The po had fortunately bagged all the fixings and bits seperately and labeled them which is a huge help and I cannot thank him to much for that.

My biggest problem is that I wasn't able to ride the bike and test the engine prior to strip down so I have no idea how it performed or the compression etc etc. However on the plus side the engine has apparently only done 20000km which is nothing. All the parts I have inspected so far show zero signs of wear .

I have a Haynes (which is next to useless ) but intend getting the superior Clymer which I've always found the better manual by far.

As far as I can tell all the parts are there right down to the old gaskets and nuts and bolts.

The bores are good as are the pistons,rings cyl head, valves and seats and guides .

The main bearings are so massive I would be amazed if there were any appreciable wear and I can detect nothing with the basic checks I have made. All the casings are fine with excellent mating surfaces and there is no damage to any threaded holes or studs etc.

There is a damaged needle roller bearing pressed into the top case which the po tried to remove by pulling ! I pointed out that it was a press fit and simply needed pressing out and he was gutted. He thought that the bearing had been pressed into a blind hole ! Apparently it was the straw that broke the camel's back and decided him to sell the bike. Lucky me !... Even better he has supplied the replacement bush!.

The oil pump is not scored and well within tolerance and the gears look perfect. I have been unable to find any wear or chips to any of the cogs .
The gear selectors are as new but have been mixed up as have the valves , and gudgeon pins etc which is a pain. I like to put all parts back in their respective places and it helps loads when trying to evaluate wear etc.

The cam lobes? well i'd defy anyone to tell the cam apart from a brand new item . Simply mint. this engine has been looked after and has done a negligable mileage. I am going to take a chance with the existing cam chain and both the guides look new with no apparent wear whatsoever?

last night I trawled through over 1200 parts on UK ebay to find the various seals and parts I need for a rebuild and only managed to find a gasket set and a kickstart seal.

I'm going to have to start phoning around all the Yamaha parts shops Monday.
I need to be especially careful as the bike is a US 79 2F special and most of the parts in the UK are for European spec bikes

I will start a rebuild thread in the next few days and use it as a sort of blog and question and answer point and I shall post lots of pictures as I go. I am really going to enjoy this restore .
best regards
John

 

[pregrid]

Good luck John. Will be following this one. Wanna see lots of pics, please.