Back at it Again With the Wiring Problems

Diff3RentBreed

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I don't even know how to explain this one. The problem is with indicator lights on the control box if you would call it that. Lights just aren't lighting properly. The video describes this fully.

Any ideas on what to try? I'm kind of at a loss here.
1977 XS650.
Thanks!
 
I think you have some wires crossed, maybe an earth in a power line.

Pics showing the connections where the black power wire from the indicator, (not the ground black) to the Dg, (Dark green), and Ch, (Chocolate), multi bullet connectors would give a better diagnostic. In the Video at 3.26 i thought i could see 2 black wires into the Dg multi bullet connector.

The Dg and Ch wires can be hard to identify so make sure the wires are cleaned for identification.

I have marked the wiring diagram showing the Indicator power wires, Dg and Ch and the headlight main power, Y, (Yellow), and the low beam power wire G, (green). The Y, power wire from the headlight wire goes into a Multi bullet connector that splits off. one to the High beam switch and the other to the on/off switch. In effect, the power goes to the headlight from the on/off switch, through a Y/B, (Yellow/Black), wire converting to Y at a resistor, (32), on to the headlight then back to the hi/low beam switch, low beam power goes back to the headlight through the G wire.

This wiring diagram has the wiring key so i used this to show the wires. The Diagram shows the power to the indicators as Dg and Ch, in fact the power wires that come out of the front indicators are black and should go into the Dg and Ch multi bullet connectors. Rear indicators B, (black power wire), go into a single bullet connector, each to a Dg and Ch bullet connector
xs7_77D.jpg
 
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Hi 'Breed,
some other things also say that your wire colors are a problem.
The headlight warning light should only go bright if one of the headlight filaments is burned out and the system swaps to the other filament.
Or if one of the headlight filaments ain't wired right.
And yes LEDs only work if they're connected with the correct polarity.
You are not alone. It's dark in there too. Mr. Stupid burned out four 10Amp fuses before he noticed that what he supposed to be a dark brown wire was really a black one. Also discovered that an electronic flasher keeps the same steady cadence when it's shorted out. For five clicks. Then the fuse blows.
 
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Hi 'Breed,
some other things also say that your wire colors are a problem.
The headlight earning light should only go bright if one of the headlight filaments is burned out and the system swaps to the other filament.
Or if one of the headlight filaments ain't wired right.
And yes LEDs only work if they're connected with the correct polarity.
You are not alone. It's dark in there too. Mr. Stupid burned out four 10Amp fuses before he noticed that what he supposed to be a dark brown wire was really a black one. Also discovered that an electronic flasher keeps the same steady cadence when it's shorted out. For five clicks. Then the fuse blows.
I took a gander in it today and did notice the same color wires as the ones in the chart so at least the guy who had it before me didn't mess anything up too bad. I'm just going to have to study the wiring chart and see if I can get these wires all wired up correctly in the headlight unit.
Now I have converted every light on my bike to LEDs. So my brake light, turn signals, headlight, even the lights in the indicator box are LEDs. Would that cause any miscommunication? I have an electronic flasher that works just fine in there as well. I'm just wondering if I would need any load resistors somewhere that may be causing the bike to read something improperly.
 
The problem with your brake and headlight warning lights in the dash pod is most likely due to your LED bulb switch. Your new bulbs draw far less current than the originals. The circuits watching for a failure think it has occurred. The only LED I have is my tail light bulb. Yes, my brake warning light in the dash came on full time when I installed it. I simply removed the bulb from the warning light, lol. The headlight warning light works off of your reserve lighting unit. The best "fix" for that is to eliminate the RLU. Details are here .....

http://www.excess650.co.uk/tips & tricks.htm

Then, you can apply a little Pamcopete mod to that now unused warning light and turn it into a charge indicating light, like the "Gen" light on your car's dash. Details are here .....

http://xs650temp.proboards.com/thread/9140
 
The problem with your brake and headlight warning lights in the dash pod is most likely due to your LED bulb switch. Your new bulbs draw far less current than the originals. The circuits watching for a failure think it has occurred. The only LED I have is my tail light bulb. Yes, my brake warning light in the dash came on full time when I installed it. I simply removed the bulb from the warning light, lol. The headlight warning light works off of your reserve lighting unit. The best "fix" for that is to eliminate the RLU. Details are here .....

http://www.excess650.co.uk/tips & tricks.htm

Then, you can apply a little Pamcopete mod to that now unused warning light and turn it into a charge indicating light, like the "Gen" light on your car's dash. Details are here .....

http://xs650temp.proboards.com/thread/9140
Thanks! I'll definitely have to do that while fixing this problem. I thought it could have been that but I wasn't sure. The brake light didn't come on when I right away. In fact, it took two broken LEDs and this is the third one that I have put into it and it's on now. I also had to install a new taillight housing so that could also be the cause. Like I said, I'm just going to have to study the wire diagram and just look at what is plugged into where on the bike and try to get it back to the correct wiring.
 
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