Blowing fuse?

The late model xs vrr's are mounted to the frame, rear of engine. I'd suppose if they needed to they'd be grounded just by being mounted. Continuity test between the frame and the negative side of the battery would confirm If the frame was grounded. 2cents? I'd mount it to a grounded frame.
OOMV
 
Looks like green wire is the ground.
So no, body shouldn't need to be grounded.
Red wire goes through main fuse to battery and feeds ignition switch, IE that's the output from the regulator.
So yeah if the diode test fails that's prolly the issue. but you might plug in the reg/rec and unplug the alternator. It won't run with the alternator unplugged cuz the ignition trigger is also in that plug.
 
Looks like green wire is the ground.
So no, body shouldn't need to be grounded.
Red wire goes through main fuse to battery and feeds ignition switch, IE that's the output from the regulator.
So yeah if the diode test fails that's prolly the issue. but you might plug in the reg/rec and unplug the alternator. It won't run with the alternator unplugged cuz the ignition trigger is also in that plug.
I haven’t done the diode test yet but will soon. Machine runs fine without blowing a fuse until I bolt the VRR back to the frame. That’s when the fuse pops. The red wire was finding its way to the VRR body. thx for your help.
 
VRR failed the diode test. At rest the battery was about 12.7V. With engine at idle or above, voltage was about 14.7-14.8 but really didn’t change much with variation in engine speed.

Checking cost and availability of OEM replacement tomorrow. Will search a bit more for aftermarket tonight. When I looked last night I didn’t see a direct cross with the OEM part number.
 
Aftermarket or OEM VRR? Waiting for OEM pricing. Aftermarket (that’s readily available) looks like about $120. Amazon stuff is cheaper but part numbers aren’t a perfect cross with OEM.
 
Aftermarket or OEM VRR? Waiting for OEM pricing. Aftermarket (that’s readily available) looks like about $120. Amazon stuff is cheaper but part numbers aren’t a perfect cross with OEM.

Honda has the reputation of having expensive parts Rebuilding a HONDA four CB750 is a black hole where all the money goes sometimes
This being a 20 year old machine I would look into cheaper options Depending on how much use the machine has and condition
The aftermarket Regulators have bad reputation You can find it on internet So there is a risk ...
Sometimes the aftermarket parts comes from the same factory that makes OEM at 1/3 the price.
A rich man Buys Honda parts .

Sometimes There is the risk something else is fried fex Stator short out warm or so -- .A new Honda regulator a $ 200 can fry directly ( as can a $ 18 regulator )
 
Honda has the reputation of having expensive parts Rebuilding a HONDA four CB750 is a black hole where all the money goes sometimes
This being a 20 year old machine I would look into cheaper options Depending on how much use the machine has and condition
The aftermarket Regulators have bad reputation You can find it on internet So there is a risk ...
Sometimes the aftermarket parts comes from the same factory that makes OEM at 1/3 the price.
A rich man Buys Honda parts .

Sometimes There is the risk something else is fried fex Stator short out warm or so -- .A new Honda regulator a $ 200 can fry directly ( as can a $ 18 regulator )
Red was shorting to the outer case as well as one of the yellow wires. Might try an Amazon VRR, as I haven’t heard back from Honda yet.
 
My brother in law opted for the Chinese VRR. I think he’s going to be getting a new one soon and wanted to save a bit of money. Ordered, installed, everything works fine. Only issue I ran into was the connector on the Chinese VRR was slightly larger than the OEM one so it was a very snug fit.
Thanks @gggGary for pointing me in the direction of the VRR.👍
 
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