Boyer bransden install question

denis

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Ok... i just f*in' wrote a whole elaborate tale and it got deleted because I exceeded the time to post.

Im going to try to make sense and not waste so much time.

Im trying to see if the boyer bransden unit that the previous owner installed is installed correctly. Last night I decided to tinker with the poop-mobile once more since I got the new brass from sudco. I was playing with the timing and wanted to check something i've encountered. When spinning the hall effect rotor,
ign009.jpg
Ive noticed that it sometimes rotates the entire assembly and sometimes it doesnt and just spins through. I've tried rotating the assmebly by spinning the alt stator and by spinning the nut on the advance side of the boyer unit to see if there was a difference. What i noticed was that when I spun the stator the hall eff. on the ign unit spun without any hesitation and always lined up on the intented mark, but when I was playing with the nut that secures the ign hall eff to the cam:
ign016.jpg
, the results were inconsistent and sometimes the stator would move and sometimes i was able to just spin the hall eff. independently. What I want to know is if its normal to see what I am seeing, or maybe the hall eff. shaft needs to be mounted tighter so when rotated it rotates the entire assembly without any slip. How could I go about tightening it without damaging anything considering it spins through so i need to grip on something to tighten it.
 
The end with the pick ups should be locktited to the rod, they recomend tapping the shouldered part to locate in the end of the cam then it is just tightened up so it is tight against the cam and won't move.
 
Thanks.

I am about to pull the trigger on the PAMCO ignition unit, this way I can sleep easier knowing that the ignition unit went in new and no one else tampered with it. Even if hypothetically something is wrong with the Boyer I wont waste my time diagnosing it any further. I should really invest in a multimeter i'm tired of not being able to check anything..

Anyway my question is about the PAMCO.. mike has two versions available one with an XS coil and the other is pamco's coil its a $25 dollar difference so I wanted to know what is a better choice, Part #14-0915 or Part #14-0912.

I think I'll order it tomorrow.
 
Here's the instructions
 

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I have all new, appropriate brass in the carbs so it must be that something is not right with the ignition, as I originally suspected. I never actually probed the BB, but there is nothing else that could be causing a no start.. I did a very basic spark test, grounding the plug and visually inspecting the spark and the results indicated a weak spark. The battery is brand new. I'm about to pull the trigger on the PAMCO and see how that works. I just really want to get everything squared off and see the bike run, I've gotten this far so I cant quit now.
 
the only thing that I could think of is, a bad ground.. grounding the BB on the plate where the coil is mounted, as shown in the link. But im not sure if that reason enough to cause a complete no start. Another thing is that as my wiring goes I have a single 18g wire coming from the key switch.. that is soldered to three 18g wires that are govered by individual 10amp fuses. One 18g power is split to the front and rear of the bike for all the lighting. The second 18g power is for the ignition, and the third, I believe, goes to the rec/regulator (different from the + return to the battery, I have a combined rec/reg.)
 
What happens if you bypass the rest of the electrics and wire just the ignition, could be a problem somewhere else on the system, seems strange to be getting a week spark, is it definately timed correctly,
 
To my knowledge. i have the marks lined up 'n all. I actually tried running a 14g straight to the ign and the results were a little stronger, but when I did actually get it running it ran very rich.
 
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