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Well we all know what would be best... Like scott sez but I prefer 1000 or 1500 grit paper or even a coarse buff (black) on the wheel. I feel the goal is to remove any loose chrome flakes and round off any sharp edges to avoid cutting the seal during install and use.
Well we all know what would be best... Like scott sez but I prefer 1000 or 1500 grit paper or even a coarse buff (black) on the wheel. I feel the goal is to remove any loose chrome flakes and round off any sharp edges to avoid cutting the seal during install and use.
If you do buy a new one, I recommend you shop around for a stainless one. They're not much, if any more than the chrome steel type and you won't ever have to worry about the rust problem again.
The key is only do the pits meet a rubber seal. If not, good to go, but maybe they eventually will with pad wear. Been ten years since I did mine, so can't visualize it at this point.
The key is only do the pits meet a rubber seal. If not, good to go, but maybe they eventually will with pad wear. Been ten years since I did mine, so can't visualize it at this point.
True if pits are outside the "swept area" of the seal they would not be a problem. In that case there would be more of a problem by installing new pads. This is assuming as most pistons I have seen get pitted in the area under the boot and no in the area on the fluid side of the seal. Note I did say "MOST"! With very bad maintenance things can get very nasty.
Hi Tom,
only put that piston back in if you plan to sell the bike to someone you ain't fond of because the nasty sharp edges of those pits in the hard chrome will chew up the new seal real quick.
Otherwise buy a new one because that one can't be fixed except at great (perhaps 5x replacement) cost.