Cam chain adjuster cover

[Mikey]

I was honestly going to start a build thread but when I went to take the cam chain adjuster cover so I could get the carbs out to put a helicoil to fix a missing stud
I saw this
I take it I can remove the 6 bolts and pull that housing of and no big surprises
I think I may ? have another assembly

 

[xjwmx]

Yes, no problem. Nothing will fall loose inside... I'd back off or remove the adjuster first, just because

 

[Mikey]

I didn't think so now I just have to search to see if I have another
Thanks !!

 

[Mikey]

Yes, no problem. Nothing will fall loose inside... I'd back off or remove the adjuster first, just because

The nut that covers the adjuster is turning with the part of the housing that it was supposed to snug up against
I don't know how that happened
The nut rotates with the part of the housing fused to it so I thought rather than unscrew that and god knows what will fall of it I'd just take the housing off then no parts can fall off it

 

[xjwmx]

"The nut that covers the adjuster is turning with the part of the housing that it was supposed to snug up against"
5T has write-ups on which years are prone to that and how to fix, if you don't like it like that.

If part of it is stuck or slipping, you can get it out any way it will come and fix it once it's out. There's nothing to fall loose inside. There'll be a gasket under the plate, and if you careful you can reuse. If plate is stuck after bolts are out, light tap sideways with a hammer might free it w/o tearing the gasket

 

[Mikey]

It's an 81 let me dig in 5t's post and see what I can find
If I just pull that assembly off couldn't I get another like it and bolt it back on the bike

 

[5twins]

The lock nut under the acorn cover nut is installed backwards. The shouldered part should face in, then you can hold the hex part as you loosen the acorn nut.

You don't have to remove the housing. Nothing will fall off inside if you just remove the adjusting screw, lock nut, and acorn nut.

Here's one installed correctly. The whole hex part of the lock nut will be outside of the housing .....

Here's how the lock nut should go on, with the shoulder facing in .....

 

[Mikey]

The lock nut under the acorn cover nut is installed backwards. The shouldered part should face in, then you can hold the hex part as you loosen the acorn nut.

You don't have to remove the housing. Nothing will fall off inside if you just remove the adjusting screw, lock nut, and acorn nut.

Here's one installed correctly. The whole hex part of the lock nut will be outside of the housing .....

View attachment 231722

Here's how the lock nut should go on, with the shoulder facing in .....

View attachment 231724

I'm just going to pull the housing and fix what ever it needs
It's just like some one just reefed on it to stop an oil leak
Thanks

 

[5twins]

To seal it, there should be a copper washer under the lock nut and an o-ring in the cap nut. The o-ring doesn't protrude very much and needs replacing every few years it seems. Luckily, there's an American size that fits perfectly and is cheap .....

 

[Mikey]

I just need to go through what I have and fix what's on the bike now
Thanks for the heads-up on the rubber o ring
If I don't have another to take parts off of it's time to hit the wanted section

 

[jpdevol]

Don't ya just love silly PO tricks?

 

[Mikey]

JP I'm my own OP some days

 

[Mikey]

JP I'm my own OP some days

Sorry on my phone PO some days

 

[Wingedwheel]

PO and OP!

 

[Mikey]

Either one works

 

[gggGary]

https://www.xs650.com/attachments/img_20221210_161905163_hdr-jpg.231715/
Yeah consider yourself warned.
TRUST nothing on this bike, confirm and verify EVERY possible maintenance item.
There's going to be more bollixed up stuff.

 

[Mikey]

I need a small penlight flashlight to look better
I never thought to look there if I had a flashlight I would have seen that looking at the bottoms of the carbs

 

[MrBultaco]

bollixed

Great word gggGary, applies to lots of things these days......

 

[Mikey]

I found enough parts to make one good assembly
by taking parts from each assembly

 

[5twins]

There's just one little thing you'll need to watch out for when mixing parts like you did, and that has to do with the length of the adjusting screw. There were two lengths used, a 60mm long screw with the older 2mm thick copper damper washer and a 59mm long screw with the 3mm thick rubber/metal damper washer. Details are here in post #23 .....

https://www.xs650.com/threads/cam-chain-tensioners.1056/page-2