Tecrekka
XS650 Enthusiast
Awesome, thanks!
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Cam Chain Tensioner Adjustment-Video
- Thread starter littlebill31
- Start date
Okay, I have a couple questions here. I don't think this matters but I keep the spark plugs in because without them the timing mark wants to get real close and then jump past without plugs. So I am able to visible notice the valve gap, like I can fit up to like a .035mm feeler in there. I could I not have heard alot of noise being this loose. Also, I am bit confused as to how to actually adjust them. I can loosen the 12mm nut but how do I adjust. The valve head is square and actually doesn't move at all like in bills video. Additionally, I am almost positve I am at DTC but the are loose at all, is that because of the huge gap?
The factory shop manual is on-line here for free .....
http://www.biker.net/
Read through it and (hopefully) learn some things. It was all any of us had to go on before this internet stuff came along. Your post is somewhat mis-phrased and hard to understand. I'm glad that you're positive you're at "DTC". You're probably the only one there in the whole world (lonely at the top, isn't it?) because there is no such thing, lol.
http://www.biker.net/
Read through it and (hopefully) learn some things. It was all any of us had to go on before this internet stuff came along. Your post is somewhat mis-phrased and hard to understand. I'm glad that you're positive you're at "DTC". You're probably the only one there in the whole world (lonely at the top, isn't it?) because there is no such thing, lol.
Let me try this again, heres a post I found from you on another forum.
Yes, the elephant's foot adjuster wears better. The original screw will dimple the valve stem top and wear the screw tip out eventually. They also run quieter. The ball area that the foot attaches to fills with oil so you get a sort of semi-hydraulic adjuster. You can run slightly larger clearances which are supposed to be better for oiling and performance without excess noise
Read more: http://xs650forum.proboards.com/thread/2510?page=1#ixzz2Pym9GW4Z
Is my valve adjusting screw worn down, there is no screw tip to speak of. Its just a square top. Or I am reading this wrong or do I just use a wrench on the valve adjusting screw. Sorry for the confusion and I hope this makes sense, though it may not.
Yes, the elephant's foot adjuster wears better. The original screw will dimple the valve stem top and wear the screw tip out eventually. They also run quieter. The ball area that the foot attaches to fills with oil so you get a sort of semi-hydraulic adjuster. You can run slightly larger clearances which are supposed to be better for oiling and performance without excess noise
Read more: http://xs650forum.proboards.com/thread/2510?page=1#ixzz2Pym9GW4Z
Is my valve adjusting screw worn down, there is no screw tip to speak of. Its just a square top. Or I am reading this wrong or do I just use a wrench on the valve adjusting screw. Sorry for the confusion and I hope this makes sense, though it may not.
The top of the screw is the 3mm square. With the the 12mm nut loose, the screw should rotate, with just fingers needed. I very lightly seat the screw on the thickness gauge, then hold it (with a little custom open end wrench I made to fit the damn thing) while I tighten the nut. This is easier said than done, keep practicing till you are good at it.
In that post 5twins is talking about the bottom of the screw, where it contacts the end of the valve stem. The screw has often dimpled the end of the valve stem. That makes it impossible to accurately set clearance with a flat thickness gauge, it bridges over the dimple making for a false "too wide" clearance.
In that post 5twins is talking about the bottom of the screw, where it contacts the end of the valve stem. The screw has often dimpled the end of the valve stem. That makes it impossible to accurately set clearance with a flat thickness gauge, it bridges over the dimple making for a false "too wide" clearance.
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thesus
XS650 New Member
hey guys i just replaced the cam chain guide on my 76 and was setting the tension for the chain but when the push rod is flush the adjuster is too far in to put the acorn nut back on, did i forget to do something or is my cam chain streached? my manual does not address this problem. thanks
WELDFAN
XS650 Enthusiast
hey xsleo, hope your doing good, so with the tension tight enough to keep the rod from moving more than 1-2mm i found it sticks out slightly past flush. now as i read you stated that circumstances can change where the rod will come to. if the tension needs to be adjusted till the rod sticks out but it is say a good complete set up, is this a sign of cam chain stretching or parts wearing over time? and if so when is it too much wear?
wolfchilde
XS650 Member
Cam Chain Adjustmen:I set to TDC, adjusted till nut was flush with the pin but when i turn her over she moves more than 1-2mm and she protrudes?????
There is no specific spot given (like TDC) at which to do the adjustment. You simply observe the plunger movement while you turn the motor over by hand. The plunger should move in and out as you're rotating the engine. Set the adjuster so the plunger doesn't come out past the end of the adjuster nut.
For me, this is just an initial setting. Once the motor is running, I observe the plunger movement at idle and set it exactly then. It's the easiest and most foolproof way in my opinion.
For me, this is just an initial setting. Once the motor is running, I observe the plunger movement at idle and set it exactly then. It's the easiest and most foolproof way in my opinion.
smg65
XS650 Addict
I try to research things here before "going to work" on the bike... but I somehow missed this before adjusting cam chain tension this past weekend! Threw me for a loop... thought perhaps something was wrong when that plunger kept jumping out. Pretty sure I ended up with a proper adjustment though... by default I suppose. I'll recheck. Thanks!
richardthemotorcycle1
XS650 Guru
After initial setting, then you say to observe the plunger movement at idle and set it exactly, but won't oil come out at idle?
smg65
XS650 Addict
A little might dribble out... not a big deal. Perhaps a tablespoon or two at most. Just blot it up with a towel. Also, you can do the whole tension adjustment with the engine running, as described earlier in this thread.
Yes, a small amount will dribble out. It's not going to be shooting out or anything like that. The adjuster assembly is above the oil level, not sitting submerged in it. It's bathed in oil but just by being splashed with it. Fold up a paper towel and place it on top of the crankcase under the adjuster. It will catch the couple drips, which is really all you'll get.
That occasional "jumping" of the plunger doesn't happen as readily, or hardly at all when setting the chain while idling. That's another reason it's a better method than the shop manual's motor off technique.
That occasional "jumping" of the plunger doesn't happen as readily, or hardly at all when setting the chain while idling. That's another reason it's a better method than the shop manual's motor off technique.
Jerrytiaxs650
ROG bike restorer
Thanks to Littlebill31 and all of the other experts. I fired by xs650sj Heritage special today and I had this terrible noise. I have inadvertently changed the cam tension adjustment while trying to track down an oil leak. Oh and by the way, I think I have slid off every slipper slope of xs650 misadventure so far.
I have had my kick start mechanism prevent me from close my right have case. Excellent video from a UK gentlemen on this subject. I have over torqued my valve adjustment screw and have popped out the clutch cable. I have replaced my clutch shaft seal and bushing and have put in a Mikes one piece clutch rod only to be greeted with a few more drops of oil this afternoon.
I have also retensioned the number 3 and 4 starter gear drive springs to have continue to spin off the drive mechanism. I tried to get to a 0.625 spring length.
Oh well, keep the videos coming, the written material on the carburetor rebuilds are just fine, only they make a lot more sense after you have actually done the job.
For tomorrow, I will fix the gas tank leaking issue with some non fiber washers for the petcock fastener, probably neoprene or something like that and I will have the good folks at my local Yamaha shop cut me a new gasket for the petcock as well. The O-ring is new but the surface has been repainted a few times and could use some smoothing out with sand paper or a wire drill.
Kind regards, am enjoying all of the information and the technology behind these bikes.
I have had my kick start mechanism prevent me from close my right have case. Excellent video from a UK gentlemen on this subject. I have over torqued my valve adjustment screw and have popped out the clutch cable. I have replaced my clutch shaft seal and bushing and have put in a Mikes one piece clutch rod only to be greeted with a few more drops of oil this afternoon.
I have also retensioned the number 3 and 4 starter gear drive springs to have continue to spin off the drive mechanism. I tried to get to a 0.625 spring length.
Oh well, keep the videos coming, the written material on the carburetor rebuilds are just fine, only they make a lot more sense after you have actually done the job.
For tomorrow, I will fix the gas tank leaking issue with some non fiber washers for the petcock fastener, probably neoprene or something like that and I will have the good folks at my local Yamaha shop cut me a new gasket for the petcock as well. The O-ring is new but the surface has been repainted a few times and could use some smoothing out with sand paper or a wire drill.
Kind regards, am enjoying all of the information and the technology behind these bikes.
Jerrytiaxs650
ROG bike restorer
Update on the one piece pushrod and seal bushing replacement. It is not leaking, it is another source of leak coming from the oil pan.
Started the bike, and found the clutch way out of adjustment. I think the brass tensioner washer had fallen into the right side of the motor when the cover was off. I have to clean out the motor with kerosene to lose some of the small particles that were formed when the brass washer hit the gears under the right side cover.
Facing a transmission rotor issue and will do the adjustments and see if we can't get back to 5 speeds. Right now, I have second and third.
Started the bike, and found the clutch way out of adjustment. I think the brass tensioner washer had fallen into the right side of the motor when the cover was off. I have to clean out the motor with kerosene to lose some of the small particles that were formed when the brass washer hit the gears under the right side cover.
Facing a transmission rotor issue and will do the adjustments and see if we can't get back to 5 speeds. Right now, I have second and third.
Plumbed1
XS650 New Member
My older brother just gave me his 1976 Yamaha XS650 with 28,000 original miles. It sat idle for well over three years. I brought it home, put fresh fuel in her, changed the oil, charged the battery, and fired her up. Made some noise at the top but settled down after awhile. Put her on the road for a short burst of torque/speed (longer drive after I put new tires) and she purred. Still a little noisy at the top end so I am going to follow the instructions given on cam chain tension, valve adjustments and other tune up requirements. My particular bike is not equipped with the lock nut at the cam chain tensioner acorn nut. If it came stock without the nut than why would I need to put one?
Yamaha screwed up on that type D adjuster. All earlier versions and the type E that followed have a lock nut. Yamaha realized their mistake and put the lock nut back on. Without it, when you tighten the acorn cap nut, it can tighten your adjuster more too, over-tightening the chain. Running with the chain too tight will prematurely stretch it out.
