Chrysler mod up and running

txpowdercoater

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Thanks pamcopete for the heads up, I installed the chrysler reg and left the rect. portion wired in. works great 14.3 volts max rpms, in fact, its an extremely steady 14.3 all ranges of rpms, per the digital voltmeter.
 
tx....,

OK. It was pumps that suggested the pamcopete Chrysler regulator mod. I was all hung up on your idea to switch the tiny battery in and out, but you can probably run a small battery now with the voltage being properly regulated, others have done so successfully.

The trick to not frying a tiny battery is to never let the battery voltage get down to 10.5 or below, because then it will start drawing more current than it is rated for to recharge. I would even go so far as to suggest that you trickle charge the tiny battery over night....every night. Just wire up one of those 2 conductor trailer connectors to the battery so it is convenient to plug the charger in every night.
 
tx....,

OK. It was pumps that suggested the pamcopete Chrysler regulator mod. I was all hung up on your idea to switch the tiny battery in and out, but you can probably run a small battery now with the voltage being properly regulated, others have done so successfully.

The trick to not frying a tiny battery is to never let the battery voltage get down to 10.5 or below, because then it will start drawing more current than it is rated for to recharge. I would even go so far as to suggest that you trickle charge the tiny battery over night....every night. Just wire up one of those 2 conductor trailer connectors to the battery so it is convenient to plug the charger in every night.

and you know, I was wondering about what the charge amps are with these xs stock systems? these little batteries are so sensitive that even charging on a charger on the low setting of 2 amps all night could toast it, so I wonder about the amps.
definately would have to be a trickle charger.
Why would you suggest doing that instead of depending on the charging system to keep it happy?
and also, even though one might think it looks cool to kick start and kick start only....it sure sucks huge ones when you stall it at an intersection and the bike is designed to kick in neutral only. Sure wish I could just squeeze the clutch and stomp on it, but noooooooooooooooooooooo:doh: live and learn people.
 
tx.....,

It's just additional insurance. The appropriate trickle charger will bring the battery up to full charge without any damage, getting it ready for the next days ride. You can't force feed a battery with a bunch of amps. The battery can only absorb so many amps over a given period of time, the excess is converted into heat and that's what fries (boils?) the battery.

So it's possible that you could return to the cave at night and the battery is not completely charged. Putting it on the trickle charger will ensure that it is ready to go the next day.

Now, a lot of people have run a small battery successfully without going through this trouble. It's just my recommendation and it's what I would do if I ever decided to run with a tiny battery..:wtf:..and kick start the bike in 100 Degree weather...:yikes:.....and get stuck in an intersection with a stalled engine..:banghead:...and watch the battery slowly discharge to nothing at a long red light..:confused:...and have to replace the little bugger every 3 moinths..:eek:....and have to plug it in every night..:wtf:...like...NOT....:bike: (me)
 
I dont think mine will disharge at a long red light, mines not as tiny as most are running, has enough beef to burn the headlight for a loooooooong time easily by itself. also, the headlight switches off automatically in neutral, so heres hoping for long battery life.
thanks tons for your help, your a valuable asset to this community and I appreciate ya being there.
 
tx...,

Right...I had actually forgotten about that neutral switch relay that cuts off the headlight. You should be OK. Install a LED tail light and you will really have it made.
 
I just installed a pamco, the bike has never run better.

Mine slowly discharges the battery at stoplights, always has. I've been through every part of the charging system, I just don't think the amps are there. It loses a tenth of a volt every 10 seconds or so. Reving to 1800rpm is enough to maintain it though. Not a big deal really.

There's always the headlight switch, but I've got to watch for cops here.
 
On many (most?) bikes the factory idle speed spec. has more to do with battery charging than anything else. IMHO, but of course.
 
pyrocentric,

Well, if you wire in the neutral switch headlight relay, it switches on automatically when you are in gear. I think that technically, you are required to have a working headlight during the "operation" of the motorcycle, so you could argue that one in court!

I have just ordered one of those Halogen 7" head lights with the "Halo" of LEDs surrounding the actual headlight, so that will provide the illusion of having a headlight when I'm stopped in neutral.

I also installed a LED replacement for the tail light, which makes a big difference in battery drain when stopped, especially if you are in the habit of holding the brake on when stopped.
 
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