Clear coat

[Niels B]

Anyone tried to sand and clear coat original paint ? Have a couple of spruce green tanks that are a little dull from the years gone by, I would like them to look shiny again and I don’t think I can even consider matching the color. Or should I just live with it

 

[mike in idaho]

I wouldn't sand them. You might find a thin spot, here and there, and end up repainting. Clean them with grease/wax remover, de-gloss the surface with a clean piece of brown Scotchbrite, clean them again then apply two thin wet coats of clear.

 

[Niels B]

Thanks for the advise

 

[Max Midnight]

I agree that at this stage sanding (I would use wet and dry paper) is not a good idea but it may not be neccessary to go as far as Mike suggested.

Use some paint rubbing compound applied with a clean cloth e.g a new micro fibre. Finish off with a good polish.
That may be all you need.

Assuming the clear coat is in good condition and you want that shinier than a shiney thing look then some elbow grease will be required.
Use Micro Mesh cloths.
These come with a range of grits and the idea is that you work through the cloths and the next one to be used removes the scratches left by the previous one.
Start with the least coarse grit needed to remove any scratches and then work through them until you finish off with the 12000 grit cloth.

If done correctly you will have a mirror finish.

 

[46th Georgia]

Anyone tried to sand and clear coat original paint ? Have a couple of spruce green tanks that are a little dull from the years gone by, I would like them to look shiny again and I don’t think I can even consider matching the color. Or should I just live with it

I would clean with soap and water first, then wax and grease remover. Next, run your finger tips across it. if it feels rough, like fine sandpaper, get a clay bar kit. It will remove most of the crud that is on there without removing any of the clear. Remember, compound removes material, the less you use, the less chance of burning through. After you have used the clay bar and it feel slick, then carefully compound it. Try a small spot first and I would avoid the old fashioned "Heavy Duty" compound as it was designed for lacquer and may be a bit too aggressive.

 

[5twins]

There is a finer compound available than rubbing compound. It's called polishing compound. Rubbing compound is usually reddish orange or brown, this stuff is white. It's what I would use .....

https://www.turtlewax.com/products/polishing-compound-scratch-remover-105fl-oz

 

[Niels B]

So after a hard days polish and buffing this is the end result, guess I can live with it in spite of nicks here and there. On the top there is a full area that will not budge guess it’s partly clear coat and paint that have been scratched over time - maybe previous owner rested his belly on the tank

 

[Mailman]

I think that came out great, I’d take that any day, given the age of our bikes.

 

[46th Georgia]

So after a hard days polish and buffing this is the end result, guess I can live with it in spite of nicks here and there. On the top there is a full area that will not budge guess it’s partly clear coat and paint that have been scratched over time - maybe previous owner rested his belly on the tank

Doesn't look bad to me. Once you get it road worthy, and I get a break here at my shop, we can meet somewhere for lunch and I'll take a look in person and see if there's anything else that can be done. Also, have you started painting any of the black parts? If not, I'll help you out.

 

[Mikey]

It's a street survivor
Look at the positive if you happen to put another scratch or three on it just ads to the patina of the bike
Looks good !

 

[Niels B]

Doesn't look bad to me. Once you get it road worthy, and I get a break here at my shop, we can meet somewhere for lunch and I'll take a look in person and see if there's anything else that can be done. Also, have you started painting any of the black parts? If not, I'll help you out.

I’ve done a lot of the smaller parts, such as headlight bucket, triple tree, chain guard, meters etc. my main headache is the frame, as it’s a bigger set up - spot blast, prime and coat. Not sure I can do it here and ensure it get somewhat acceptable . This is how headlamp turned out, for an amateur I’m pretty happy with the result.

 

[5twins]

While you're at the headlight, paint the inside some light color, it helps see the wiring. I just used a brush and white Rustoleum primer on mine .....

 

[Niels B]

Not a bad idea - it’s pretty tight in there in the first place

 

[46th Georgia]

I’ve done a lot of the smaller parts, such as headlight bucket, triple tree, chain guard, meters etc. my main headache is the frame, as it’s a bigger set up - spot blast, prime and coat. Not sure I can do it here and ensure it get somewhat acceptable . This is how headlamp turned out, for an amateur I’m pretty happy with the result.

I'd be pretty happy too. Looks like you are what we call a Rattle Can Rembrandt.

 

[Niels B]

I'd be pretty happy too. Looks like you are what we call a Rattle Can Rembrandt.

Haha yes - cans work well for small parts, wouldn’t try on tank and frame though. I guess it could be done but doubt the result would be good and would prob need a lot of cans.

 

[Kevin Werner]

I'd be pretty happy too. Looks like you are what we call a Rattle Can Rembrandt.

I ran 5 dumptrucks delivering gravel. we kept the trucks looking good from 20 feet so when a wheel tire needed a change a freshly painted combo was ready to go. Fritz always had us prepared. Freshly painted rim and new tire. FRITZ would always claim he was a "Rimbrandt"