louis
XS650 Addict
Hi guys, fitted a new clutch cable and kick starter won't kick, clutch lever is fine and pulls nicely. Clutch needs adjusting? On this adjuster, am I backing off the screw or the nut? My manual doesn't say anything about it.
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Hi guys, fitted a new clutch cable and kick starter won't kick, clutch lever is fine and pulls nicely. Clutch needs adjusting? On this adjuster, am I backing off the screw or the nut? My manual doesn't say anything about it.
louis
XS650 Addict
Right, figured it out from another thread.
I backed the lock nut off and turned the screw back and forth, when people say "resistance" do they mean when you go in as far as you can, then back out 1/4 turn, similar to a fuel mixture screw? Or does it mean as you are turning the screw in the minute you feel ANY kind of resistance, stop, and back out 1/4 turn. This is very fiddly!
I figured if I didn't touch the clutch push rod etc then the new clutch cable wouldn't need adjusting, I was wrong.
I backed the lock nut off and turned the screw back and forth, when people say "resistance" do they mean when you go in as far as you can, then back out 1/4 turn, similar to a fuel mixture screw? Or does it mean as you are turning the screw in the minute you feel ANY kind of resistance, stop, and back out 1/4 turn. This is very fiddly!
I figured if I didn't touch the clutch push rod etc then the new clutch cable wouldn't need adjusting, I was wrong.
louis
XS650 Addict
Okay little bit more info, I've read the Clutch threads in the tech section now.
I never took off the RHS cover, and before I replaced the cable, my clutch worked fine.
I took off the LHS cover, cleaned everything inside and then fitted the new clutch cable. Now the bike won't kick, neutral light is on, but then when I pull in the clutch, I can kick the bike. Can the neutral light be wrong and you're not actually in neutral? Is the issue that I'm actually in gear trying to kick the bike over? or am I completely lost
I never took off the RHS cover, and before I replaced the cable, my clutch worked fine.
I took off the LHS cover, cleaned everything inside and then fitted the new clutch cable. Now the bike won't kick, neutral light is on, but then when I pull in the clutch, I can kick the bike. Can the neutral light be wrong and you're not actually in neutral? Is the issue that I'm actually in gear trying to kick the bike over? or am I completely lost
Verify it is in neutral by fiddling with the shift lever until the bike rolls back and forth. That way you will confirm whether the neutral light is truthful.
Lets maybe clear up a couple of things.
I'm guessing when you say kick you actually mean electric start?
You "can't" kick start an XS with the clutch pulled in, the kickstart gear train goes through the clutch plates, on the other hand...
The e-start won't operate with the engine in gear unless the clutch is pulled this is pretty much standard MC operation.
If you have a stock 82-83 there is a sidestand interlock, the starter won't engage if the sidestand is down, unless the clutch is pulled in. And the engine will die if the clutch is released while it's in gear with the sidestand down. (ignition interlock)
I'm guessing when you say kick you actually mean electric start?
You "can't" kick start an XS with the clutch pulled in, the kickstart gear train goes through the clutch plates, on the other hand...
The e-start won't operate with the engine in gear unless the clutch is pulled this is pretty much standard MC operation.
If you have a stock 82-83 there is a sidestand interlock, the starter won't engage if the sidestand is down, unless the clutch is pulled in. And the engine will die if the clutch is released while it's in gear with the sidestand down. (ignition interlock)
On the adjust when the screw stops tuning "freely" and you can feel it snug up to the push rod is the point from which to back off about 1/8th turn. Hopefully you pulled and cleaned the worm assembly, checked for any cracks in the nylon, greased and reassembled. Be certain the ball bearing is still in the worm housing the push rod must have the machined end of the rod facing out so it fits inside the worm gear.
louis
XS650 Addict
Gary, i did pull, clean and grease everything, made sure the machined end of the lush rod is facing out. Basically re assembled exactly how it was when the clutch was working fine.
I understand your confusion, by "kick" I didn't mean kick start the bike, I simply meant that the kickstarter was no longer seized and would kick through its motion when the clutch was pulled. When the clutch is not pulled, the kickstart is conpletely seized. I have a 73, so not sure any of that new technology applies. Sorry, should have stated bike at beginning.
Verified neutral light is true as above, can not believe I didn't think of that.
I understand your confusion, by "kick" I didn't mean kick start the bike, I simply meant that the kickstarter was no longer seized and would kick through its motion when the clutch was pulled. When the clutch is not pulled, the kickstart is conpletely seized. I have a 73, so not sure any of that new technology applies. Sorry, should have stated bike at beginning.
Verified neutral light is true as above, can not believe I didn't think of that.
will it electric start?
Only other weird thing I can think of is something has bound up the rotor/stator. did you do anything there? will the crankshaft turn with a socket on the 17mm rotor nut?
If so Then I guess I suspect something in the kick mechanism, odd coincidence?
Only other weird thing I can think of is something has bound up the rotor/stator. did you do anything there? will the crankshaft turn with a socket on the 17mm rotor nut?
If so Then I guess I suspect something in the kick mechanism, odd coincidence?
louis
XS650 Addict
It won't electric start, but the electric start was always very temperamental and I rarely used it, so not sure how helpful that is.
I did take off the stator, to test and clean the rotor. I've never pulled the rotor. I'll see if there are any issues with the way I reassembled these parts and report back.
When you push in the clutch push rod, do you push it in until it "seats"?
I did take off the stator, to test and clean the rotor. I've never pulled the rotor. I'll see if there are any issues with the way I reassembled these parts and report back.
When you push in the clutch push rod, do you push it in until it "seats"?
Airwolfie
XS650 Guru
Did you remove the RH cover? Maybe put the kickstarter back in wrong?
There's a good video on how to on youpoop, I'll see if I can find it
There's a good video on how to on youpoop, I'll see if I can find it
Airwolfie
XS650 Guru
Here ya go
louis
XS650 Addict
Cheers mate, I never took the RHS cover off so any issue with the kickstart mechanism would be coincidence only?
This is my first bike, so i'm not very good at this stuff, so I'm thinking it's something with my clutch adjustment. Would a slightly incorrectly adjusted clutch stop the kickstart from moving entirely? Or is that just nonsense?
This is my first bike, so i'm not very good at this stuff, so I'm thinking it's something with my clutch adjustment. Would a slightly incorrectly adjusted clutch stop the kickstart from moving entirely? Or is that just nonsense?
Airwolfie
XS650 Guru
You got the center stand? Pop it up on there and try to kick it over. If the rear wheel turns, it is in gear and you won't kick it on the ground. Make sure it's in neutral before you try again.
If you can kick it over when holding in the clutch, it should feel like it's slipping, at least then you will know your clutch works!!
If you haven't meddled with the kicker, it should still work if it did before?? Very odd, perhaps time to pull it apart?
If you can kick it over when holding in the clutch, it should feel like it's slipping, at least then you will know your clutch works!!
If you haven't meddled with the kicker, it should still work if it did before?? Very odd, perhaps time to pull it apart?
self answer # 2 sorry.
After checking that the crank will turn with a socket on the rotor nut, try the kicker again.
After checking that the crank will turn with a socket on the rotor nut, try the kicker again.
Airwolfie
XS650 Guru
yeah I did think that too Gary, but I ASSUMED the kicker was working previously! Silly me!!
So do check that the motor turns with the ol' socket!
So do check that the motor turns with the ol' socket!
louis
XS650 Addict
Kick starter was working fine previously, but bike has never charged. Things done since then:
LHS cover removed, new clutch cable fitted, stator pulled, alternator brushes fitted, rotor cleaned but not removed, everything put back on, now kickstart won't budge, barely a millimeter.
I'll try suggestions in this thread after work and report back.
LHS cover removed, new clutch cable fitted, stator pulled, alternator brushes fitted, rotor cleaned but not removed, everything put back on, now kickstart won't budge, barely a millimeter.
I'll try suggestions in this thread after work and report back.
Aha holmes a CLUE!!!!
check on this;
the stator contains a slot that sits over a small pin that sticks out of the lower crankcase at about 7 o:clock. It is easy enough to put the stator back on with that pin holding the bottom away. It will make the stator bind on the rotor and stop the motor from cranking. This is a good thing! If the motor starts when the stator is "cocked" it gets pretty ugly pretty quick.
check on this;
the stator contains a slot that sits over a small pin that sticks out of the lower crankcase at about 7 o:clock. It is easy enough to put the stator back on with that pin holding the bottom away. It will make the stator bind on the rotor and stop the motor from cranking. This is a good thing! If the motor starts when the stator is "cocked" it gets pretty ugly pretty quick.
When you changed the brushes, its possible you put some long screws in where there should be short screws. The long screws could be turned in so far they are jammed against the rotor. Try backing off on the brush screws.
Pull both spark plugs to make it easier to turn over the engine. As Gary and others have suggested, get a wrench or socket on the rotor nut to see if it will turn the engine. Get the bike on the centre stand so the back wheel is off the ground, then it won't matter if its in gear or not..
Pull both spark plugs to make it easier to turn over the engine. As Gary and others have suggested, get a wrench or socket on the rotor nut to see if it will turn the engine. Get the bike on the centre stand so the back wheel is off the ground, then it won't matter if its in gear or not..
louis
XS650 Addict
I'll try all of the above, thanks, will try take photos as I go as I'm 99% sure I know the little pin you are talking about Gary, and I ensured it was in it's slot at 7 o'clock, but I'll check again, I hope you're right.
Last night when I was diagnosing I had both spark plugs pulled, so kicking should have been easier.
Once i fit a socket on the rotor nut, how do I check if the engine will turn, just use the kickstarter?
Last night when I was diagnosing I had both spark plugs pulled, so kicking should have been easier.
Once i fit a socket on the rotor nut, how do I check if the engine will turn, just use the kickstarter?
No, use the socket handle only to turn the engine.................it should be very easy.
On your other thread, the picture showing the rotor nut only partially threaded on, means the PO has done something bad. You're going to want to take both the stator and the rotor off to see what has gone wrong.
