Clutch treads.

[The Tin Man]

I have read so much on clutch rods, plates conversions etc. my eyes are rolling inside my head.
There is lots of stuff out there. The problem is there are so many disparate threads that by the time one had been through them ones mind in bulging and to find key points is really hard. I understand cable lube and adjustment are first base but what then if i still have clutch drag? ( sounds like a venereal disease )

Can someone that knows post a thread which is a summary of fixes with say 3 levels of clutch treatment.

1. Standard non mod setup and tips
2. best easy and practical mods for every day use
3. If you are retired with lots of time prefer to be in the shed not with her indoors or have deep pockets or just want to do everything mods

perhaps it can be closed so that we dont get 64 pages of what john did.

Many of the VW forums i have been to relating to VWs example "thesamba" site is one have, a tech section with common how to's fixits and reference material links, these can be very helpful and save lots of searches/ reading.

 

[gggGary]

But it IS a very complex subject. My clutches all work fine to great. It's just attention to detail, quality parts, and best practices installation.
Short version:
buy a new Motion Pro cable, completely LUBE it before you install. Hang add oil till it comes out other end. this may take a couple of hours.
Route cable with NO sharp bends. If your routing will work with less bend in the elbow at the clutch cover "unbend" the elbow a bit.
Remove, clean, inspect the worm gear, replace if cracked or sloppy, lube with high pressure grease.
Remove clutch lever from perch, replace the lever bushing, 'cuz the stock bushing and bolt are worn out and creating lots of friction. Any aftermarket perch/lever is suspect with wrong ratio match between perch and lever geometry.
Clean replace the clutch push rod seal 'cuz it is a common source of oil leaks,
make sure all the push rod ball bearings are in place, rod installed with necked end facing out, side cover has correct thickness gasket.
Set the side cover worm screw gap FIRST, Tighten to just snugged up then back off "just a little", about 1/16 to 1/8th turn is my norm, tighten lock nut.
Now set the cable adjuster at the perch so there is just a little slack in lever, about 1/2" at the ball end of lever before tension is felt.
Done,
Yup I do all of this with every XS I plan to ride. Did anyone ever say operating old equipment was going to be easy?

 

[5twins]

Many of us also like to change out the 2 pushrod set-up used on the later models to the earlier one long pushrod. This can improve clutch operation a little bit but I feel it's biggest benefit is that it is easier on the pushrod bushing and seal, not wearing them out as quickly. I prefer to use a factory original long rod. They can usually be found on eBay. The aftermarket one I started with gave me issues. Apparently they skipped the hardening process on it's ends and they dimpled up very badly within 10K miles, to the point of possibly shedding metal bits .....

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

My clutch threads have been mostly adventure odysseys of exploration, experimentation, and discovery. Inviting the readers to share. Less an authoritative how-to, more an interactive exchange of ideas. The intent is more of understanding than cookbook. Kinda like journey versus destination.

I could try a stab at #3.
But, I'm not done experimenting,
And, I don't think anyone wants to go thru that much trouble...