Clutch won't disengage

something occurred to me that hasn't been mentioned yet.
The reason I asked if there was resistance when he pulled the lever.
Had he said no then I would have asked him to pull the clutch cable where it enters the case. If the ferrule has slipped out the cable would come out freely and his problem would come to light.
 
No, it won't ruin anything, the screw will just fall out of the adjuster. I think you may need to pull the whole cover off so you can check to see that the clutch cable is still connected up as it should be to the worm. That fall may have knocked something loose. This is what you should see inside - cable coming in the top of the case and connected to the end of the worm lever. Proper adjustment setting will have the cable at around a 90° angle to the arm on the worm .....

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Thanks, I will look into the less invasive procedures first cause I don't have the tools to open it up currently. But if it still doesn't work then I'll try it

something occurred to me that hasn't been mentioned yet.
If the clutch lever is removed from the perch to replace it ...is it possible that the inner cable has been pushed in and somehow unhooked the cable nipple from the clevis at the worm end ? I know there should be a retainer clip on the clevis but ....who knows what is under the cover .

its difficult to follow the problem as the terminology is perhaps a little loose shall we say but if the clutch cable is still attached to the clevis ,...theoretically if you pull the inner cable at the perch with a pair of grips (or even holding the loose clutch lever,) you should be able to operate the clutch but it would take quite a strong pull.

If you still have the original clutch lever lay it over the replacement lever and check that the lever pivot point and clutch cable connections are in the same relative positions for both levers.

As of right now I have tried to do the adjuster with the 1/8 turn back on a fully loosened clutch lever. I was trying that when I was doing research earlier on. So maybe it is something loose internally? I'll have to research what all those terms mean. Like I said I'm still a newbie
 
The reason I asked if there was resistance when he pulled the lever.
Had he said no then I would have asked him to pull the clutch cable where it enters the case. If the ferrule has slipped out the cable would come out freely and his problem would come to light.
So I have tried it both ways. With resistance and without resistance. If I tighten the adjustment screw on the worm mechanism I "can" get resistance if I want. Either way it shifts as if there is no clutch lever. That's why I'm thinking it might be something internal that's loose?
 
As mentioned, the bike won't shift in and out of gear, or through all the gears, easily (if at all) with the motor off, it has to be running. With the motor running, transmission shafts inside are spinning and that allows you to move it in and out of gear easier.

So, do a proper clutch adjustment (worm adjustment first, then finish up at the handlebar), start the bike, pull in the clutch and put it in first. If the bike lurches ahead and stalls, that will tell you for sure that the clutch isn't disengaging.
 
The reason I asked if there was resistance when he pulled the lever.
Had he said no then I would have asked him to pull the clutch cable where it enters the case. If the ferrule has slipped out the cable would come out freely and his problem would come to light.
apologies I missed the significance of your post because I probably wasn't paying sufficient attention .
 
So I have tried it both ways. With resistance and without resistance. If I tighten the adjustment screw on the worm mechanism I "can" get resistance if I want. Either way it shifts as if there is no clutch lever. That's why I'm thinking it might be something internal that's loose?

not sure what you mean by 'trying it without resistance' ??

If you attach the replacement clutch lever and connect the outer and inner cable correctly and then screw in the adjustment bolt on the crankcase cover until it stops then there has to be a resistance to pulling on the clutch lever because there shouldn't be any slack in the clutch cable anywhere.

If the lever is fitted and the cable connected and the adjustment screw is fully in you find it easy to pull the clutch lever with no resistance then something is not connected somewhere.
Either the outer cable is not secured at the lever or the cable nipple has slipped off the clevis in the crankcase cover .
Either way the clutch cable would be slack both at the lever and at the point it enters the clutch cover.

As 5twins says you need to start the engine and try selecting first gear with the clutch lever pulled. its the only way you'll know for sure.
 
Hey guys! I didn't realize that the bike can shift without the clutch in general but once I turned the motor on and started actually driving it everything worked fine! Sorry I haven't posted but I've been squeezing the last couple days out of the season hopefully! Gonna take some pics of the girl before I sign off again. Will be working on the bike through winter so I'll be on again soon!
 
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