Crankshaft wobble - freshly rebuilt engine

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Here is what mine looks like. Definitely not smooth as glass but I believe these covers and the pump itself is no longer available to order so my options are used off eBay or Mikes/xs650direct.

I’ve looked at previous posts and I think the only challenge people had with the Mikes pump rotors was that they were a bit too thick but this was addressed by sanding them down a bit. Based on this I’m leaning towards getting them new through xs650direct, of course that is unless someone here recommends otherwise.

Before I pulled the engine apart I was still getting a bit of aluminum in the oil and that fresh steel in the upper oil filter. I really hope the oil pump and housing condition explains these items but I will split the case again and clean/inspect everything before putting it back together, hopefully for the last time.
 
was there any play in the pump befor you took the pump cover off? I had a bit of play when pulling the shaft up, and have wear like yourself. I was also thinking xsdirect for a replacement pump. cheers and good luck!
 
Thx John I’m trying to track down a side cover now, appreciate the advice.

So I really didn’t want to do it, but I split the case again just to check everything. I didn’t do a thorough inspection of all parts yet, but so far things look ok and no obvious wear but will inspect again when I clean everything. Additionally I’ll clean out the cases as best I can.

Waiting for a new gasket kit to arrive (scheduled for May 10) so in the mean time I’ll clean, close, and reseal the crankcase.

Thx everybody for all of your insight and recommendations so far.
 
Hey everyone just wanted to give you an update on things. My new cam chain tension arm assembly was not square and the cam chain was obviously grinding against it, which explains a lot of of the metal in the oil and filter.

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Since fixing the above and also installing a new oil pump assembly, the filter has been pretty clean after a few hours of ripping around town.

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It’s not perfect but it is far, far better than before. Hopefully it’s mostly residual junk from before but I’ll continue to monitor the filter as I move forward.

I was dealing with a low (90) compression issue on the right side. The left side was 150 and this was taken while the engine was warm. I retorqued the headbolts tonight for the first time since reassembling and got 150 left and 140 on the right when the engine was cold.

Hopefully will get it out for a test run in the next few days if it stops raining :)

Thanks again everyone for your assistant while I figure this out. It’s really a great community here.

Steve
 
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Guys!!! Alright time for an update and a bit of back story for context.

I’m 38 and have never owned or ridden a motorcycle until 2018. Always have been mechanically inclined and decided I wanted something that would be a good project, manageable for a beginner to ride, and to do this with a bike that I really connected with. Ultimately after a lot of online research I decided the XS650 was for me. In Sept 2018 I bought my 78 special and have had a lot of challenges during the rebuild from waiting on machinists for months, scheduling issues to actual work on the engine at my brother in laws (2 hours away), part delays, replacement part quality issues, wrecking my crankshaft bearings approximately 4 hours of riding after the rebuild.

It’s been a long, and at times frustrating, journey to get here and I’ll admit I wanted to give up and sell the bike multiple times during the process. Thank you to everyone here for your helpful insight and guidance. This is really an amazing community and i hope that I can start contributing to other new members from what I have learned so far.

With all that said, I’m officially riding on a regular basis now and feel I am at the tuning stage. My timing was out almost 20 degrees and since adjusting it the bike is so much happier. I went for a ride this morning and the engine just felt so snappy and crisp, man I couldn’t be happier. While on the back roads I kept the rpm around 4000 and cut the engine and pulled over to read the plugs. Holy crap I’m glad I did because it looks exceptionally lean. I took her home immediately and kept rpm low just in case.

At the moment I’m running stock pilot and main jets (27.5 and 135). Also worth noting I ported the head when the engine was rebuilt and I’m running pods and a less restrictive exhaust.

I have 30 pilot jets and 140 on hand so I think I’ll install those tonight and will do more testing.

Does anyone have some insight as to whether I should order 145 mains or adjust the needles while the carbs are off?

Thanks for reading :)

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Very cool bike! I have a couple questions;
Are you running 520 chain & sprockets? What teeth count?
Why did you set the front caliper up on the left and forward of the fork?

with jetting, it’s a good practice to err on the rich side so I’d say keep going up until you’re happy with the way it runs and getting a good plug color.
 
Sorry, thinking about the caliper set up (disclaimer: I’m no engineer but I know there are some smart ones on here) that caliper is designed to bear against the fork leg from behind and you have effectively set it up to take the braking force in reverse of how it was designed. I know that if you did this on certain calipers you’d have the braking force bearing against a pad retainer pin rather than the pad bearing block surface and would in short order bend or break that pin. Haven’t looked close at how this caliper is set up but I just did the pads on my triumph last night and that got me thinking about what would happen if you reversed the braking load on those calipers. Would not be good.
 
Sorry, thinking about the caliper set up (disclaimer: I’m no engineer but I know there are some smart ones on here) that caliper is designed to bear against the fork leg from behind and you have effectively set it up to take the braking force in reverse of how it was designed. I know that if you did this on certain calipers you’d have the braking force bearing against a pad retainer pin rather than the pad bearing block surface and would in short order bend or break that pin. Haven’t looked close at how this caliper is set up but I just did the pads on my triumph last night and that got me thinking about what would happen if you reversed the braking load on those calipers. Would not be good.

Hey Steve C, that’s for the insight. Honestly I’m embarrassed to say I had never noticed that they were backwards and had installed them the way I had received the bike. Not a good excuse for sure but can definitely fix it now if it’s a safety concern. I’ll see what I can find on the subject and if it needs to be corrected.

FYI I am running a 530 chain and 17/34 sprockets. The wheels I believe are off a CB650. Sacrilege I know
 
Weird, in he pic the chain looks smaller than 530.
Ya you’ll have to swap the forks side for side. Front axle nut is supposed to be on the right side.
I think with this caliper design your safe as they are pretty symmetrical with the beefiness of the caliper.
That said the front end might feel a little better with the caliper behind and below the fork. A front/top mounted caliper adds weight in the wrong place and makes it feel almost too easy for the bars to turn especially in slow speed maneuvers. There’s a reason you don’t see manufacturers mount calipers like that anymore.
Anywho, cheers, good luck!
-SC
 
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