crap. mite be too pretty to do what i want with it

angus67

angus67

Welder's penetrate deeper!!
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So Im preparing this engine to go into a wheel barrow hot rod. I switched out cruddy, half lost hardware, pressure washed it, rebuilt the carbs, adjusted the valves, new tappet cover gaskets.
I WAS planning on making a mini rat rod bantam racer, ala pure hell. I haven't sunk a lot of money into it yet. I still haven't gotten 1x1 steal tubing for the frame. I plan on making a stand for it this weekend to fire it off. But im afraid that if it runs well, I may just want to stash it away.
Such a pretty motor. all symmetrical to one side to the other.
I know....first world problems.
I pulled the sump filter last night and got a pleasant surprise....
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sump filter had already been patched sometime in the past.
 

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I tend to make bare minimul biulds, relying solely on the original design. For this biuld, im going to combine forethought and planning, and forgo the throw together system ive been employing for years.
That pleasant surprise came with a cost. Knowing those sump bolts break like glass, i set my torque wrench to 84"#'s. Still stripped 2 bolts. I could have just left the sump plate alone......but no, cant have that
 
Warning Will Smith :hijack:

And a similar vein.

This started out as getting a part for an XS650 project Really!
Then it got just got away from me,

After some cleaning and before I tore in

radian carrbs 003.jpg

A day later they are back together, when a couple jets and 4 float valve assemblies show in the mailbox it should be a runner

radian carrbs 008.JPG

OK see if you can guess how this went, late 80's 600 Yamaha on CL very low price it had a part... so I threw a low ball offer. I swear I have a hypnotic effect on sellers of crap. Guy took my offer, damn! Said he had many calls with offers for more money but felt "better" sending it to me!
Dragged it home carbs in a tub and cool whip bowls, new battery, title, no key. My new neighbors a locksmith! Gave him the seat lock and yesterday it came back with 2 keys, bit of twisting and rust buster and gas cap and iggy lock both work. Stuck in the battery plugged in a few connectors, everything worked! shot some ether in the ports and vroom. Headlight brightened, no bad noises or smoke from the motor. So I did the carbs. NOW, do I finish it up as a (somewhat rough) runner. Or get my XS project part off it and part it out? 12K miles Not a bad kids first bike/ learning experience.
 
Angus F that torque wrench! Use your damned wrist gauge on those bolts, if any bolts don't run in freely by hand chase the threads with the tap you keep on a handle at the bench, then hand snug and "just a bit more" in a cross pattern around the cover 2 or 3 times. Never stripped a sump bolt yet, and I have had at least a dozen off. Only one leaked and it turned out the plate was warped, replaced it and all was good.
 
All the bolts i turned all the way in by hand, then snuck up on them. A recent thread here suggested tuning in by hand, then snugging up with hand on head of wrench to limit torque.
Figuring the factory would have used a torque wrench, i felt ide be ok.
 
Typical 80s bike values, they bring more parted out than they do complete and running :banghead:
 
angus67 said:
All the bolts i turned all the way in by hand, then snuck up on them. A recent thread here suggested tuning in by hand, then snugging up with hand on head of wrench to limit torque.
Figuring the factory would have used a torque wrench, i felt ide be ok.
Click to expand...

Yeah they might have been pre-fuggled by the PO. But I'm still with the wrist wrench method. It gives you that "stop now" feel if aluminum threads start to yield.
 
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it really wasn't that bad to begin with. had the usual crud grime on the bottom. Caked grease and grit in the fins, and loaded gunk in the thru hole in the middle behind the oil delivery tube.The biggest improvement was the new (but still mikesxs) hardware pack. I have new rocker arm ends, but I didn't have cam cover gasket/oring, so I left them on. I may hit with sos pad, and paint silver.
Btw, u know those cheap ass emgo pleated filters we all warn people not to use, but they try anyway? Found a use. Put them on the carbs before pressure washing. No water gets in as long as you don't spray them directly.
 

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I also didn't change the large acorns. once its running, if the head leaks oil, I will pull it, and put a new head gasket on, with new acorns. The sump plate taught me not to mess around until seeing whats what.
I got the 38's about five years ago from hooligan . He had some health issues, so he bailed on the 650 thing. His bike was so close to being done. Rabbit ears, gold flake. hard tailed. parted it all out.
I got the bomb for my first chop, and these carbs. Bought a few carb parts, should at least start enuf to tell if this motor is good. It has compression 140-+ on both sides.
When I turned it over with the starter, it sounded fine. Of course under load may surprise me with a rod knock. When I looked up in there when the sump plate was off, nothing looked out of the ordinary. no hot spots. Peering at the cam lobes thru the adjuster ports, cam wasn't blue or scuffed.
 

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found a "just start it " wire diagram. I actually found it through a link in inxs's thread (boy that thread got messy) to psychocycles homepage.
Going to whip up a wire harness, and see if she runs.....wish me luck.
 
it runs!! Made a make shift upside down plastic drawer to mount ign toggle, tci box to, and using a 12v 5ah battery for a gate opener for the ignition, and a real mc battery to turn the motor over, it starter right away! right side dosnt seem to want to stay firing, but I thing the float needs adjusting. The plug is really wet with gas. After that first start, I took the valve covers off, lots of oil in there. Put the cover back on and fired it up. Calmed the idle down to 1500.
This was just to see if it would run, and to see if the black box worked wich it do.
Next up, charging system. My rotor tests good, as well as the stator. brushes aren't to the line yet, but close. should be enuf for testing if the reg/rec is working. Then I don't have to keep both batteries on a charger the whole time im screwing with it.
Sump plate doesn't appear to be leakin.....yet.
 
you should offer that shit up for trade for a later model engine. The xs1/xs1b motor is not meant for hotrod wheelbarrows or whatever you're talking about building.
 
Hi angus,
I'd say, put that engine on just whatever you have a mind to, just to keep it safe.
A guy I know has a perfectly restorable 1920s era flat head Indian V-twin & tranny because his granddad used it to power a grain auger back in the 1930s rather than sell it for scrap.
 

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