crap - new cam chain how to install cam? HELP

trance

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guys I think I screwed up. I peened the cam chain before installing the head or cam, now can't figure out how to get the cam chain over the cam gear. is it even possible? I'm thinking the new cam chain is shorter (hasn't stretched) and this won't even be possible...help!
 
nevermind. I was able to do it. just took a lot of wiggling. tricks were:

1) take the bearings off both ends of the cam
2) start the chain on one side
3) rotate the motor slightly while guiding the chain onto the gear

now I have to double check the chain/cam is timed correctly
 
bumping an old thread, sorry...

Does everybody rivet their brand new cam chain before installing the cam shaft and bearings? Is there ever an issue with the new chain being too tight to wiggle over the cam shaft? I just reassembled a motor and kept the old cam chain and even then it was a bit tricky to get it over the cam shaft. Any feedback is appreciated!
 
I installed my chain in one piece by taking apart the tensioner assembly.

And all new chains are extremely tight initially.

Best to install some head bolts, with spacers of course, to pull the cylinder and bottom half of the head down using about 10 lb/ft, so don't over do it.

This gives you enough room to install cam, then install cam bearings making sure bearings are pressed tight in on the cam ends and the whole assembly centered in the cases by watching the clearance on each end between the bearing and the housing' case end.


Otherwise later when you install the end plates for the points and advance unit they will bind if the cam and bearings are not tight and centered. Temporarily install an end cap to see what I mean.

Installing the cam in from the left side with the right end of the cam going in under the chain first will mean the boss on the right side of the sprocket will give you room to put the chain up and on the boss while allowing room for the cam to slide into place, then work on getting the chain up and over the sprocket.

Most peen over the connector using a punch to get a good cross peen, but not too tight as to bind that link.

Hope this helps.
 
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Thanks Brian. I'm looking at buying the DID 219FTss from MikesXS/XS650direct, which I think comes un-riveted. So I'm just trying to decided if I need to have it riveted after the top end is together with the cam loosely in place, or if I can have it done before hand (like when I'm reassembling the cases).
 
Fox, that is the same chain I used and it is one piece with a link supplied. You will need to take apart one link to use the supplied master link.
 
You betcha the Tsubaki is better, 5twins! It has bigger pins for one thing--which is why a Tsubaki master link won't fit in a DID chain, and a DID master should never be used in a Tsubaki chain; the small DID pins will slip in, but the slop will lead to a bad outcome.
 
Thanks 5twins, that's the answer I was looking for.

Thanks for that link onto the one from Boats. Does that Tsubaki come with the master link or do you need to buy it separate? The parts diagram makes it seem like its a separate piece to order.
 
It comes with a link. I know the parts listings make it seem otherwise but I just got one recently and it came split with a link in the bag. I ordered one separate because I didn't know, but I needed a spare for another (endless) chain anyway, so no big deal.

If you need a rivet tool, shop eBay. They have the same ones Mike's sells for like half the cost .....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CAM-CHAIN-B...1310238848&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr
 
Thanks. I was going to just take it into my local shop and have them rivet it together for me. But if they're that cheap on ebay I might have to reconsider this.
 
It's a nice tool to have. You can and will do a better job on the link than the shop probably will anyway. Here's what the factory did, and maybe what you'd get back from your shop. Pretty poor to say the least .....

FactoryLink.jpg


A tip for riveting the new link- the pins have a small hole in the end to aid in the spreading of the tip. Still, the rounded end of the tool's riveting pin tends to slip or walk off to the side as you tighten it down. Tap a slight "X" cut into the pin heads first with a small, sharp chisel and that will hold the tool pin centered as you tighten it down .....

XCut.jpg


PinsAfterTool.jpg


After applying the tool, finish by peening with a small ball peen hammer to smooth the pin heads out .....

CamChainLink.jpg
 
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