custom start button

ratfinkd1

ratfinkd1

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So my girls gonna ride this bike Im gonna put together. I want that clean look on the handle bars no buttons just throttle,clutch, brake, and grips. So I was thinking start button on one side of round electrical box. found these links but was wondering has anyone seen anyothers they like? And what the hell do i do with the hi beam switch? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQ1XDK...e=395261&creativeASIN=B000CQ1XDK&linkCode=asn
http://hires.amazonwebstore.com/ACDelco-U1952/M/B0012P3VVW.htm
http://www.go-fast-parts.com/5734471.html
http://www.go-karting.com/mm5/merch...5&Product_Code=1287&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=GL
this one is really sweet
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/380-017?utm_medium=cse&utm_source=thefind
this one is really cool
http://store.bobdrake.com/19starbut.html
 
Hey Rat,
I would go with the one from Go Fast Part's.com. It's pretty much weather-proof, and also has a 30 amp capacity, silver contact's,( no corrosion) and that neat little rubber cap just set's it off. It's also got a reasonable price, seem's like the best bargain to me. The headlite switch can also be put along side the start switch, check a Radio Shack Catalog for different type's of switch's. I would suggest a type that will turn off the low beam when you use the high beam, as the charging system has got only 16 amp's max. You would need a switch to turn the lite on and off, then another to switch the beam's.More than likely a double pole, double throw switch.
 
I just used a universal automotive ignition switch. Starts like a car, turn the key. I put the headlight switch on the back of the headlight. up-high/middle-off/down-low.
 

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yeah that is probably the best but i love that old school hot rod button. Is that how the high beam switch works on my 80 it switches off the low beam when you flip it to hi beam
 
I don't remember where I got the switch. I just googled switches I think. It's a 20 amp, 3 way switch. You can see the switch at the back of the bucket.
 

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J&P cycles catalog. Cheap chinese piece. Looks and works good. The hardware was shit though. It's got a little parking bulb in it, too.
 
Yeah i found it on parts unlimited also I get cost plus 10% from a dealer in Dallas so I'll hook that up with some other needs when its time to drop some dimes.:thumbsup: Gonna find out some other prices on stuff next week:wink2:
 
Agree with the headlight switch on the bucket.

As far as the starter button - if you are utilizing the stock starter relay, you can use a much smaller momentary push button switch. It won't need to be a 30A switch. Any N.O. switch rated for 5A will be sufficient. Of course, if you are doing away with the relay - you will need a high current switch.
 
I wire them on high. I sure people will tell you not to do it but on the cheap 4 1/2 s high is not that bright. And I want to be seen.
 
In texas the high beam has to be switchable to pass inspection. Just like it has to have a horn. It can be a honker horn from a bicycle but it has to have that and at least one mirror. So I'll have to run at least a high low switch to the headlight.
As far as the Start button goes if I remove the relay and run a 30 amp switch what con's would there be to that.
 
A sealed single pole double throw toggle switch is what I would use from speedway motors for the headlight...they have lotsa cool switches and stuff in the race car catalog online. I had a sealed ignition/start toggle switch from them on one of my previous builds. Real clean and easy to hide...did over 30,000 miles on that one and it didnt vibrate apart. Your local boat shop has the spdt ones for the headlight...totally sealed in silicone rubber.
 
Yeah I wouldn't worry about most of that stuff if I was back in Dallas but, here in Austin I don't have the connections so I have to follow the rules when its inspected afterwards the the honker horn and mirror come off and go to the storage bin till next inspection.
 
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