Daytime lights turn off

[colebrooker]

Hello, my first post. I am in the UK and have an XS650 imported from the USA. I do not want the lights on during daylight, only when switched on. What is the easiest way to alter the electrics to achieve this? At the moment the rear come on with the keyswitch on and the headlights when the engine starts. It's a 1978 model.

 

[xjwmx]

Headlights during daylight will help keep someone from left turning you (or right turning you, depending). That's the single most common kind of accident.

 

[jayel]

the way the various safety systems (light checker and reserve lighting) are wired into the 77 and laters are wired in doesn't make it easy, putting a simple on/off switch into the dimmer switch control feed wire (yellow/blue) woud shut off the headlight but not the tail lamp and the safety controls would see it as a burnt out bulb lighting it up maybe interupting the yellow from the safety relay so it doesn't know the engine has started might be better but you would have to be careful to get off the starter button when it starts to avoid grinding starter

 

[xjwmx]

Oh, it's very easy. When you don't have to face his mother, wife or daughter.

 

[gggGary]

It's always bright and sunny in England anyways, right?

 

[xjwmx]

I have doubts about the bright part.

 

[lettle]

taken from http://www.excess650.co.uk/tips & tricks.htm

Jumper the two wires together and the head light switch on the handle bars will be able to switch the head light on and off any anytime...

"Yamaha in their idyllic world came up with a ridiculous idea called a Reserve Lighting Device . The idea being that if your Dip-beam blew it would automatically switch the headlamp to Main-beam and illuminate the little white idiot light between the clocks to tell you that your dip-beam is out, as if you wouldn't know because you have just had a close encounter with a 40 ton, 60mph lump of steel called a juggernaut who you just blinded with your automatic main-beam.

If this device fails you will have no headlamp at all.

Anyway locate this offending device, usually under the seat behind the battery and unplug it, (early ones are black, later ones are grey ) then sling it over the nearest hedge, Now looking at the plug that comes from the loom connect the Blue/Black wire to the Blue/Yellow wire and normal headlamp operation & sanity is resumed."

 

[jayel]

Oh, it's very easy. When you don't have to face his mother, wife or daughter.

there is a certain amount of risk we all take in our lives, I have and do ride motorcycles that don't have all the wonderful safety features that are now considered essential, heck being from Iowa I've been known to even ride with out a helmet. I am sure you would never consider riding without a approved helmet, full leathers and lord knows you would never consider modifying your machine it anyway from the safest it could possible be (do you have training wheels on it?) why you would even consider riding such a known safety hazard at all is a puzzlement, better to just hide in your basement so something doesn't happen accidentally. rocks have been known to fall out of the sky! I am sure with the English licensing requirements he is well aware that people are apt to turn in front of you upon occasion, happy motoring

 

[Newagerocker]

taken from http://www.excess650.co.uk/tips & tricks.htm

Jumper the two wires together and the head light switch on the handle bars will be able to switch the head light on and off any anytime...

This procedure will correct a faulty reserve lighting unit on headlight switch equipped model; it will not address turning DRL off. From XS650-2F and SF, USA models on there is no headlight switch on the handle bars.

 

[xjwmx]

It's real easy when you don't have to face it.

 

[Gordon]

Can I ask a stupid question? Why do you want to turn off the DRL? If you are concerned about charging the battery, you can make the headlamp allot dimmer just by splicing an on/off switch between the low beam wire's. That allow's the Reserve lighting devise to illuminate the high beam with half the voltage. When the switch is turned back on, the headlamp function's normally. You could also jumper the wiring at the Reserve devise as stated, then put in the switch. When switched off, no low beam, and when switched on, normal headlite operation.
I have mine run with the first method, and I get allot of comment's from cage driver's saying my headlite is dim. So that is telling me they see me, as the dim lite get's their attention.

 

[5twins]

Enabling the headlight on/off switch on the '78 is very easy, just unplug one wire under the right sidecover. This is the only model you can do this on. Previous ones didn't need it and later ones had no switch on the bars .....

The tail light is a bit trickier. It comes on with the key and I haven't figured out an easy fix for that without losing the parking light function (which I want). I'm satisfied for the time being with just getting headlight control back. The motor doesn't need to start for the headlight to come on. A couple cranks of the E start or kicks is sometimes enough to produce enough voltage and kick the relay. Then your headlight is on but the motor isn't running yet. If your battery is a bit low, this can draw needed power away from the ignition.

 

[TwoJugs]

Headlight always on is the law here. We need all the help we can get from the idiots on the roads in Florida.

 

[pumps]

Would it be possible to get a right side switch pod setup from a 77 that has an on/off switch (as mine has on it) and wire it in? How would you wire it. I'm guessing somehow in the headlight bucket.

 

[colebrooker]

Thanks all for your response on this one, I can see various options. I do have the right side switch and just want control of the headlight. It's my first XS and so far it's looking good. Standard and original Spruce Green.

 

[bluebikerblan]

Would it be possible to get a right side switch pod setup from a 77 that has an on/off switch (as mine has on it) and wire it in? How would you wire it. I'm guessing somehow in the headlight bucket.

Piece of cake Pumps......I purchased several 78' SE right hand control units (with the ON/OFF switch) then converted the 2F & SF wiring to that of the SE.....(in my case after removing the (RLU, LCU & TSCU) and tracing out the defunct wires. [reserve lighting unit, light checking unit and turn signal self-canceling unit] Only two new connections involved blue/black to blue/yellow on plug to RLU and blue power supply to the taillight after removal of the LCU. Disconnect blue/black at the safety relay as depicted in 5 twins photo above. Actually get some decent charging rates at much lower rpm's & rate when the headlight on drain is eliminated.

I've done it now on 4 or 5 (2F and SF)'s This results in being able to start and run without the power drain of the the headlight being on. This results in headlights on only when needed. (Utah does not require either daytime headlights or helmets). Tail and brake lights function as normal (though I now use LED's.

Works great....simplifies wiring....all stock OEM components (minus 3) and a bunch of pretty colored wires.

My thumb btw seems to be holding up suprisingly well in spite of all that additional work turning the headlight on or off and canceling the turn signals. Best, Blue

 

[5twins]

Blue, could you explain a bit more about that LCU (Light Checker Unit)? I'm thinking it may be something I'd like to eliminate. What exactly does it do and I'm assuming I can't just remove it or the tail light won't work? Does it only affect the tail light?

 

[xjwmx]

What people consider safe and what they consider dangerous is strange and amusing irony.

One guy thought it was dangerous to loosen steering bearings a bit to eliminate notchyness, but advocated removing the turn signal canceler.

One guy would not take a rider course where a full face helmet wasn't allowed (the instructors wanted to watch your eyes), because of the danger he perceived in that, but happily went down a wet interstate because the weatherman said it was 33 degrees rather than 32 (literally)

One guy begged a guy to make sure his needle didn't come all the way out of the jet and perhaps hang (a situation handled easily enough on the xs by squeezing both levers), but told another guy who wanted to ride with his headlights off during daylight (and at night of course) a bright way to do it, and maybe the tail light too.

And everybody is telling that poor guy in another thread not to do his own frame welding.

It's also strange and amusing what they consider macho. Ride your own ride, and you'll do relatively better. And if you claim reducing risk isn't your bag, the reason you're able to read this is because you do it.

 

[bluebikerblan]

Blue, could you explain a bit more about that LCU (Light Checker Unit)? I'm thinking it may be something I'd like to eliminate. What exactly does it do and I'm assuming I can't just remove it or the tail light won't work? Does it only affect the tail light?

First let me explain something.....I am not advocating riding a motorcycle without having your headlight on. I simply prefer to be able to reduce the power drain of lighting if un-needed and for all kinds of reasons..... be able to turn my headlight ON or OFF independant of whether by bike's are running or not. Usually in daytime backroads, off-roads, dirt roads or trails with camp and fishing gear strapped on etc. In my opinion these systems (RLU, TSCU & LCU) were largely unnecessary "bells & whistles" and have now become either defunct or in some cases new hazards of unreliability themselves.

So saying... The LCU is an rubber encapsulated unit almost identical in appearance to the TSCU. It is mounted on a metal tab on the underside of the battery tray. It's function (acting in concert with the RLU) is to advise by warning lights of the operating condition or lack thereof of the tail & brake lights.

As I understand it......if you've a disabled or removed RLU....you might just as well remove the LCU as well. finish of the Simpla Fi treatment which I choose to do on the upgraded electrics of my "Blues Mules"...if you choose to do so, you will need to supply a power feed to the tail light L (blue) from one of the blue supply options, I chose L/y because I wanted the tail and tail/brake to remain functional if someone is following me on a trail eg but there are several others...L/G, L/B, L to choose from for various reasons etc. Oh, of course the tail light/brake light indicator light no longer operates. If you do all of these simplifications you should still have.... turn indicator lights, neutral and high beam indicators.

OK 5 twins, not my 'turf' really. I gladly defer to the electrical gurus like Pete, Grizld1, TRG, Ken Maxwell and on and on. So retired old chemist that I am, I say in summary "Where's that guru #9 when you need him? Pete has written well as has TRG on this subject in the previous posts. Might want to search it?

Hope this helps, Blue

 

[5twins]

From studying the wiring diagram, I'm thinking I can jumper the L and L/Y in the plug that went to the LCU. That should get the tail light power again, right? On my Standard, that unit is behind the battery box between it and the inner plastic fender. I'll have to wait until the back wheel is off again to get at it.