Deciding on a cafe seat pan

pslaughter

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Hey all, new here just picked up an xs650 over the weekend. I'm wanting to add on some cafe parts, and wanted to get your alls input on makers. The PO was turning the bike into a street tracker, so the loop has been cut and he welded a bar across the back of the frame to receive a bolt that connects the tracker fender/seat he had installed. The front of the seat has a notch that fits around the post and under the tank. I like the simplicity of this install and want to replicate it with a cafe seat. How have you guys installed yours? Anyone have a preferred seller? I have been looking at dime city cycles but all there stuff seems aimed at Hondas. Not sure if that'll really make a difference. Thanks!
 
actually working fiberglass is easy.
when mixing resin n catalyst just don't mix it hot! of in other words mix it so it takes a long time to get hard. also make sure to roll out all air bubbles. and use enough resin so there is no dry fiberglass.
 
Also, MOST polyester resins go thermal when they kick off. The larger the batch, the more thermally active they are. I've seen paper cups with too large a batch in them spontaneously combust. Epoxy resins are better IMO, and most (but not all) are more thermally stable than the polyester types, but make sure you weigh your proportions and heed all directions relative to maximum recommended batch size. Slower cures allow more work time to iron out the bubbles and feed any resin starved areas. Bear in mind, strength comes from the fabric, not the resin. Don't be tempted to butter up the outside with a heavy glaze of resin. There are surfacers for making it all pretty and smooth. Focus on good distribution and keeping the fabric tight to the mold and air pocket free.

I like to use 6mil bags. (like freezer bags) I split them down the side seams and tape one side down to the table. Lay the glass on top of this one, drizzle on some resin, then pull the other side over top and press the resin through the glass. You can see through the bag to work the resin into every fiber of the cloth. When it's happy, peel that piece up and lay it on. A bondo spreader works good for ironing the resin into the fabric. Sometimes I cut the whole top side of the bag off the table so I have a hand hold to lay the glass on the mold, but many times it drags the fabric out of place on the mold when trying to peel it back. Try glassing something besides your project first, just to get a feel for working with it. Does not require the practice time of good welding, but experience does help!
 
jd750ace, That plastic bag trick sounds pretty cool. I've always used the short paint rollers, like 2.5 inches wide maybe, to spread resin into the glass. Has an added benefit of pressing the air bubbles out.

To the OP: Take some tape and 'form' a seat pan to the size of your liking over your rear hoop. Make sure to think about how you will fasten the seat pan to the hoop at that time so you can add the required hardware to your base layer of glass before you start to add resin. In my case, I had a hinged bar that connected to the frame and had two oval guides in it for bolts to go through. I placed two bolts through my base layer to line up with the oval guide, and when the base layer dried I had two permanent bolts to attach my seat with. For a base layer, use an old sweater or some thick fabric to soak up a bunch of the resin and then add glass mat over that. Add a couple of layers to ensure it is rigid and won't crack due to vibrations. My seat pan is maybe 3/16" thick. Make sure to glass a bigger area than you expect the seat pan to be, leaving ample room to cut the correct shape.

Really, glassing is super simple once you get the hang of it. As jd750ace said, do a practice piece first. Try using a kitchen bowl as a mold first to get the gist of spreading the resin and keeping air pockets out. That should give you enough practice with complex curves and glass mat to approach the seat pan.
 
Awesome, great tips guys. Skunk, I was planning on making a steel plate base that would fit under the pan and have the bolts to connect to the frame welded onto it. This would be attached through holes in the glass pan to the cushion, holding it all together and giving rigidity.
 
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