Differences in the MikesXS wheels

Bullcrappy

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Neither can be run tubeless. They are spoked rims, all the air would leak out the spoke holes around the spokes. The "shouldered" in the description refers to the rim profile. Look part way down the pages you linked to and you will see a "profile" drawing, a cross section of what the rim shape looks like. The shouldered type is what came stock on your '77. Basically, it has raised edges or flanges. The other style, called a "WM", does not have them.
 
Thanks 5twins. Can i run either? is there a benefit of one over the other?



Neither can be run tubeless. They are spoked rims, all the air would leak out the spoke holes around the spokes. The "shouldered" in the description refers to the rim profile. Look part way down the pages you linked to and you will see a "profile" drawing, a cross section of what the rim shape looks like. The shouldered type is what came stock on your '77. Basically, it has raised edges or flanges. The other style, called a "WM", does not have them.
 
You can use either. The only difference really is how they look. I would think you'd like a matched front and rear, again for looks. Both styles were used on the 650 over the years. Early models up to '73 had chrome steel WM style rims. '74-'79 Standards got the flanged alloy "shouldered" style rims. Specials from '79 on that had spoke wheels went back to the chrome steel WM style. The exception is the '79 Special II. It had alloy WM style rims. It was a one year only thing.
 
Hi Bullcrappy,
if you want to run tubeless tires the only affordable way is to give up on wire wheels and switch to late model Yamaha cast wheels.
Check for the letter-stamped "OK for use with tubeless tires" on one of the cast wheel's spoke webs.
The earliest cast wheels don't have that stamp and although I have used unstamped wheels to run tubeless tires I cannot recommend that others do so.
Just because I can't see any difference between the two rim configurations don't mean there ain't one.
 
Hi Bullcrappy,
You can have it all, wire wheels and tubeless both. But it's neither easy nor cheap.
Buy two BMW external spoke flange wire front wheels that are designed to run tubeless tires.
Transmogrify them to fit your XS650.
There's a kit you can buy to swap an XS650 front wheel onto the back, maybe that'll work.
A couple of grand and a few months work is all it'd take.
Nah, I wouldn't bother neither.
Can't find black spokes? Try checking out a gunsmith to see if there's a gun-blueing solution that'll work on stainless steel.
Or can you mask off the threads and get them powder coated?
 
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Beware of the Mikesxs WM style rims. I recently purchased one of the black 18" rears along with their stainless spoke set and am having issues.

Another member on here (gggGary I believe, who's warning I should have listened too :banghead:) has a thread describing how the spoke angle is wrong with their aluminum finished 18" rear. I emailed Mike's after reading Gary's thread to see if the black 18" rim would have the same problem. The reply was that it wouldn't be an issue.

Well, I assembled and trued my wheel yesterday and am having the same spoke angle issues that Gary described. Needless to say I am regretting my purchase. I emailed Mike's about the issue and their response was it is fine the way it is and/or the spokes are too tight causing the spokes to align with the nipples and not the hub. This makes no sense as the nipples need to seat in the rim dimples in order to be tightened. They recommended either leaving it as is, loosening the spokes (this seems like are horrible idea) or drilling the holes larger. Drilling seems like the best option but kinda pisses me off since I asked them if this was necessary BEFORE I purchased from them. Not to mention I have $60 of powdercoat on the rim already which could potentially be ruined by drilling. I emailed pictures to Buchanan's to get their opinion and see if they could redrilling for me and am still waiting to hear back.

Sorry to hijack and rant in your thread but just wanted to give a warning. This $70 rim is going to end up at around $150 by the time this is over with lol.
 
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Thanks for heads up. surprised you even got a reply from Mikes? They dont reply to emails. Dp you have a phone number for them? I don't see one on the web site.

Rich
 
They don't have a phone number and honestly, they probably couldn't. They would end up having to answer complaint calls all day long, lol. Yes, we are lucky to have a business catering to our specific 650 parts needs, but you must be careful what you buy. Many of their items are poor quality repops, or made poorly because of a lack of quality control. The original item they contract out for isn't always what they get, and nobody seems to check on that.
 
Thanks for heads up. surprised you even got a reply from Mikes? They dont reply to emails. Dp you have a phone number for them? I don't see one on the web site.

Rich

Unfortunately I dont, as 5twins mentioned I don't see one available. They have however responded to both of my emails in a timely fashion. The person contacting me is named Russ.

ETA- Correct contact name
 
I think the issues, (gggGary found out), is the rear drum hub from a 16" rim, (79SII/80G/81H), has the holes at a different angle for a 18" rim, so the spokes don't set into the bub countersink holes. The spokes also have a different head angle and again fail to set in the hub.
 
I think the issues, (gggGary found out), is the rear drum hub from a 16" rim, (79SII/80G/81H), has the holes at a different angle for a 18" rim, so the spokes don't set into the bub countersink holes. The spokes also have a different head angle and again fail to set in the hub.

I understand what you're saying but the issue seems to be at the rim not at the hub. Whether or not the spokes sent perfectly into the hub wouldn't help. The angle they meet the rim isn't correct as the angle the nipple seats with the rim is lass "steep" than it needs to be in order to align to the hub. Just had thought, is there a hub that had a factory 18" rear rim? If so, was the hub a slightly smaller diameter? If so that might explain the issue, I think that would help to correct the angle.

Now if you were to lace only the spokes going in one direction (clockwise/counter clockwise) everything fits like it should. Only when you lace the remaining spokes going the opposite direction do things start to get screwy.

Seems like it's out of the norm but I have had good luck with communication from Mike's. I told them I had contacted Buchanan's to see if they could redrilling the rim for me and they asked that I report back to them with whatever Buchanan's has to say. I'm not expecting any compensation but atleast they are listening.
 
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