Drive chain rivet flaring tool?

[Splexin]

Drive chain rivet flaring tool? (SOLVED)

OK so I installed a new drive chain today.....first time to do this and lucky me the chain was rivet type......so I used this tool http://www.mikesxs.net/product/35-0006.html

Didn't come with ANY instructions (for future reference) but after awhile I figured it out. Got the rivet joiner plate on just fine and I thought I was done. Then I do some reading and find out you have to "flare" the rivets after pressing on the joiner plate........does anybody know if this tool does that?

I'm not sure if it flared the rivets or not. I remember have to use my socket wrench to turn the device and when it clamped the plate on there were tiny bits of metal where it had crimped the rivets. It's called a chain "riveter" (there is a separate tool just for pressing on the side plate), so surely this tool doesn't just press on the side plate?

Anybody ever even used this particular tool? If it doesn't flare the rivets what tool can I get readily available that will do the job?

Damn these instructionless devices.

 

[Splexin]

Anybody?

 

[GreasyC]

I don't have that particular tool but yeah generally a kit like this will have different business ends you can put on the moving part to do three different tasks:

1- drive out the old link
2- press the plate onto the new link
3- flare the pins of the new link

maybe seeing the instructions for a similar tool will help? http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/articles/view/2557/instructions_for_motion_pro_chain_breaker_and_riveting_tool__08-0058/

 

[Splexin]

The old chain was already off, and that tool is very different from mine. This one seems to only have parts B, L, and O.

Maybe I will email Mikes and ask.

 

[Shakey]

Hey Splexin! I use a different tool to get the rivet through the plates, then 'peen' the head of the rivet by placing a 4lb lump hammer on the far side of the chain as 'resistance' and then carefully hit the edges of the rivet end until they spread out over the edge of the rivet hole. There must be a tool that does this as all the chain rivets I have seen on factory chains seem to have four symmetrical facets on the rivet ends. Either way, the home made method works.

 

[Splexin]

I'm not really keen on going the homemade route, I'm just not good at that kind of stuff

I contacted Mikes but haven't got an answer......I can only assume by the product description that you are supposed to use the pin to rivet/flare the head.....the problem is the pin tip is almost larger than the rivet head, is that how it is supposed to be? I tried to use it and all it did was break the pin and put a small indention in the rivet head.

I guess that's what happens when there's no instructions and I go the cheap route Should've just bought a riveting kit.

 

[grizld1]

You use the domed end of the riveting tool's driver to rivet the master link pins. I've used the tool from Mike's for years, it's excellent quality and a real bargain. Sorry, but no other source or manufacturer is going to hand you instructions that basic; you won't get a sheet of instructions when you buy a hammer or a chisel, you're supposed to know what the tool is for before you buy it.

 

[Splexin]

You use the domed end of the riveting tool's driver to rivet the master link pins. I've used the tool from Mike's for years, it's excellent quality and a real bargain. Sorry, but no other source or manufacturer is going to hand you instructions that basic; you won't get a sheet of instructions when you buy a hammer or a chisel, you're supposed to know what the tool is for before you buy it.

Well this is definitely a little more complicated than a hammer or chisel. I know what the tool is for, otherwise I wouldn't have bought it. It came pre-assembled, so how the hell was I supposed to know you have to take the pin out and reverse it?? The little indention in the bottom of the driver doesn't look like a flaring tip at first glance. Again, a little note or something would've helped. Even Mikes didn't know off the top of their heads and they still haven't gotten back to me about it.

Thank you for the clarification.

 

[grizld1]

Yep, the guys at Mike's aren't mechanics. You've fallen into one of the traps of online business; you get the goods cheap and fast, but you don't get to ask questions of someone who knows (of course the way most bike shops operate these days, the guy or gal behind the parts counter isn't likely to know much either). Anyway, you could have paid $120 or more for an equivalent tool, and it still wouldn't have come with directions; some things you have to learn through training or experience. Hope the rest of your assembly goes smoothly.

 

[petew41133]

Instructions for the MikesXS chain breaker/riveter tool:
http://www.mikesxs.net/product/35-0006.html


Set the tool to "A" in order to break the old chain apart. Make sure the long pin is sticking out (if not,reverse it on the body). It perfectly matches the Izumi 530 chain (stock XS650).

With the new chain mounted and loosely linked together set the tool to "B" in order to press the new link together that comes with the new chain. Reverse the breaker pin so the large round cylinder presses against the separate square plate against the bottom of the press to do this.

After sufficiently pressed, while still on "B", remove the separate square plate so the cylinder is visible (again, the cylinder is the opposite side to the breaker pin on this tool). Its exactly designed to press a Izumi 530 type chain soft rivet. Do each rivet without overtightening. The rivets look perfect when done. Great quality tool, well worth the $.

Note: The pin can sometimes be hard to reverse, I used a vise. Lube it well.

 

[Hosk Engineering]

This is a good video on replacing a chain:

 

[fredintoon]

You use the domed end of the riveting tool's driver to rivet the master link pins. I've used the tool from Mike's for years, it's excellent quality and a real bargain. Sorry, but no other source or manufacturer is going to hand you instructions that basic; you won't get a sheet of instructions when you buy a hammer or a chisel, you're supposed to know what the tool is for before you buy it.

Hi griz,
you mean, like a pickaxe?
Precis of an Asimov short story about a robot sealed in a concrete bunker and programmed to
emerge after the radiation has died down and rebuild the world.
Robot finds a pickaxe in it's bunker with a tag on it saying "use this tool to dig your way out."
Grabs the pickaxe by it's two curved steel handles and starts pounding at the wall with the wooden end.
The wooden end wears away until it's half gone with no effect on the bunker wall.
Robot loses it's temper and flings the pickaxe at the wall.
Notices that one of the handles has gouged a big divot in the wall.
Decides that using the pickaxe t'other way round will get it out of there.

 

[gggGary]

Hi griz,
you mean, like a pickaxe?
Precis of an Asimov short story about a robot sealed in a concrete bunker and programmed to
emerge after the radiation has died down and rebuild the world.
Robot finds a pickaxe in it's bunker with a tag on it saying "use this tool to dig your way out."
Grabs the pickaxe by it's two curved steel handles and starts pounding at the wall with the wooden end.
The wooden end wears away until it's half gone with no effect on the bunker wall.
Robot loses it's temper and flings the pickaxe at the wall.
Notices that one of the handles has gouged a big divot in the wall.
Decides that using the pickaxe t'other way round will get it out of there.

SOP in my shop!