Do x-ring chains need to be lubricated and if so as often? I never had one, I guess they must come w grease sealed in around the pin? Is it pin to roller or pin to side plate? What area does the sealed grease actually lube? I'm about to get one. I have a 25$ gift card for Amazon and I'll pay the rest unless someone has a strong opinion against that. A better source maybe?
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Drive chains.
- Thread starter joebgd
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- drive chain
Yes, there's grease sealed inside so lubing of the pin and the side plate rotating on it is taken care of by that. You'll just need to keep the outside coated with something so it doesn't rust. I have an o-ring chain on one of mine. When I renovated the bike a couple seasons ago, bringing it back to life after a long slumber, I brushed the chain down with moly grease. It has worked quite well and I'll be re-applying it this season.
Lots of vendors sell an aerosol wax in solvent. shake it up spray it on solvent evaporates leaves the wax. But I'm with 5t and degrease, degrit with mineral spirits,brushes and rags, brush some moly grease on the outside of the rollers now and then. Where you operate makes a difference I don't ride dirt, gravel a whole bunch.
X-ring chains that I've both held in hand and read about in the forums seem to be "large" in physical size having wider span to accommodate the thicker side plates as well. In my opinion, they are unnecessary as there is limited clearance in the counter shaft area and that charging system wiring harness is already in close proximity to the chain.
The extra weight alone is yet another deterrent, I think so.
-R
Yes to all above. I put one on my 77D, it’s bigger in all dimensions and much heavier and overkill in my opinion.
Well, a stock #530 chain is also total overkill. Chain technology has come far since the late 60s/ early 70s. A modern, high quality #520 chain can easily cope with 100 hp. I doubt many XS650s have much over 60-65 rwhp..
A good #520 X-ring chain and sprocket set will save weight over an oem chain/ sprocket set. And outlast it as well. Personally, I would never buy 530 chain and sprockets for my XS or RD350. 520 is lighter, plenty strong, and "free" weight savings when you need to replace chain and sprockets anyway.
A good #520 X-ring chain and sprocket set will save weight over an oem chain/ sprocket set. And outlast it as well. Personally, I would never buy 530 chain and sprockets for my XS or RD350. 520 is lighter, plenty strong, and "free" weight savings when you need to replace chain and sprockets anyway.
This is true but the 650 does have unusual gearing so the mechanical advantage on the XS650 sprocket sizes does result in higher than normal chain loading.
I am in total agreement that the quality of modern motorcycle chain is much higher than the crap that came on early XS650's and yes 520 should be more than fine for most uses.
Dang, I want to try the 18t sprocket so I am going to stick w the standard 530. Was thinking 520 as well and would but I use my bike for transportation and already have a couple different good 530 sprockets.
I like using 2cycle or motor oil and brushed on grease, when I used spray lubes they don't seem to last. I've only tried a couple tho, I feel like there must be good spray lubes to..
I like using 2cycle or motor oil and brushed on grease, when I used spray lubes they don't seem to last. I've only tried a couple tho, I feel like there must be good spray lubes to..
This has been my chain lube of choice for a long time now, it sprays on wet so it penetrates all the spaces then quickly dries and leaves a sticky coverage that doesn’t fling off. It lasts a long time, and about every third time I clean my chain and reapply.
90 wt gear oil works great. Kerosene or WD40 for routine cleaning. I have an o ring chain. They last a long time.
I don't think the 530 X-ring chain will clear the guard over the shift shaft. You'll have to run without that and make sure it clears that shaft.
shifter and clutch push rod are both very close with 18 tooth sprockets.
With an 18 tooth sprocket the clutch push rod clearance may be an issue, specially with some HD "Big" side plates? not sure but would be something to look at.
It also had a stretched chain jump the sprocket. Surprisingly with some bumper epoxy smeared on, this motor has been running thousands of miles with no issues now.
Close but no cigar; WJL looks to have had a 16 tooth sprocket and o-ring? chain at one point in it's life, that didn't go well.
With an 18 tooth sprocket the clutch push rod clearance may be an issue, specially with some HD "Big" side plates? not sure but would be something to look at.
It also had a stretched chain jump the sprocket. Surprisingly with some bumper epoxy smeared on, this motor has been running thousands of miles with no issues now.
http://www.tcbroschoppers.com/530-gold-heavy-duty-motorcycle-chain-120-links.html
I'm thinking about this, it has good reviews, more links than I need, I have a 30t rear so a smaller chain than stock right now. It rubs the swing arm w that small sprocket. A new chain should help. I'm going w a 18t front to help also.
I'm thinking about this, it has good reviews, more links than I need, I have a 30t rear so a smaller chain than stock right now. It rubs the swing arm w that small sprocket. A new chain should help. I'm going w a 18t front to help also.
I firmly believe that “O” or “X” ring chains are for modern bikes with oceans of torque and horsepower.
If you try and spin your back wheel when it’s on the stand with an “O” ring chain you’ll be luck if it spins one revolution, whereas with an ordinary chain, spins a long time.
I know a chain saps power, an “O” ring saps a lot more.
Myself I like DID 530S. Strong enough to do the job and quite durable. So what, I have to remove it and Lynklife it every so often, part of the maintenance, along with checking tyre pressures.
All my newer bikes have “O” ring chains and often the bottom runs of the chain looks like a ZigZag, you can lubricate them all you want but it won’t go into the pins and bushes where it’s needed.
This of course is my personal experience.
Any resemblance to common sense is purely coincidental..
If you try and spin your back wheel when it’s on the stand with an “O” ring chain you’ll be luck if it spins one revolution, whereas with an ordinary chain, spins a long time.
I know a chain saps power, an “O” ring saps a lot more.
Myself I like DID 530S. Strong enough to do the job and quite durable. So what, I have to remove it and Lynklife it every so often, part of the maintenance, along with checking tyre pressures.
All my newer bikes have “O” ring chains and often the bottom runs of the chain looks like a ZigZag, you can lubricate them all you want but it won’t go into the pins and bushes where it’s needed.
This of course is my personal experience.
Any resemblance to common sense is purely coincidental..
Due to room w 18t and considering your comments I am going w non ring chain. Actually now you mentioned it, my front tire spins real free my rear doesn't even make a full turn when I spin it. Everything is nice and tight no free play on wheel or swing arm, just wish it had less resistance, I'll spin it when I take the chain off and grease or new bearings in rear.
With 18/30, a Harley train on parade will give you a run for the money, lol.
No kidding, lol. You have to keep in mind that we're only dealing with about a 50 HP bike here. Gear it too high and it won't hardly get out of it's own way, and won't pull to redline in 5th. Unless you weigh like 120 pounds soaking wet, 18-30 gearing is going to make your 650 feel like a 350 off the line, maybe even worse. Yes, these bikes do benefit from a gearing change, but only a very small one, like one or two teeth down on the rear (and leave the front alone).
Wondering if you have Ethanol free Supreme fuel in your area to help with the off line starts?
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