motorbreath
XS650 Addict
So, ive been researching epoxy primer and i know its what im going to use on the bare metal, but should i use regular primer over the epoxy primer, then sand, then basecoats of color?
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
epoxy primer, then primer again?
- Thread starter motorbreath
- Start date
-
- Tags
- paint
pa23driver
XS650 Addict
depends on the epoxy primer, you'd have to read the tech sheets for the primer and your topcoat as it really depends. some are used more as a sealer and aren't recommended to sand on.... i'm not speaking from experience, but from my own research - i plan on DIY my tank and side covers this summer with real paint, so i did some digging on the subject. what brand of epoxy primer are you looking to use?
flthead
XS650 Addict
this is a good epoxy ,i would read there tech sheet on there epoxy prime http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/tech sheets new/2010revised/2010TechManual.pdf
Tech7
XS650 Junkie
You can paint right over epoxy primer IF you final coat within a week of applying the epoxy in most cases.
Ironsled77
XS650 GRAND HACK
Your base is going to look like what ever you put it over. Its way easier to epoxy then prime, block, base, clear. Or you can etch the bare metal, prime,base, clear.
Posted via Mobile
Posted via Mobile
PetesPonies
XS650 Addict
All materials have different specs. You can't say something that covers them all. The epoxy I use has a recoat window of 24 hours, not a week. It is also an epoxy that hardens well. Which means it sands well. I block my epoxy just as I would any other primer. But you can't do that with most epoxies. I use Kirker.
1974jh5
Curmudgeon.
The absolute best primer I have ever used is Slick Sand made by Evercoat. The best thing about it: it does not 'shrink' and show pinholes etc. unlike some others I have used. Evercoat mumbles something about a short recoat window but I never was able to do it in that time window, never had a problem. I did my Jensen Healey (ten years ago, still no adhesion problems), two Porsche 914's, a Triumph Spitfire and my street tracker with it. You shoot (it goes on thick) sand out the nubs, scuff with 220 and shoot your basecoat. If you are going single stage you allow the first two coats to dry for 24 hours (or force dry quicker in a booth) then shoot your 'shine' coats. Or, if basecoat/clearcoat wait 24/48, scuff with 220, shoot your base, let that dry 24-48 hours, scuff and level with 600 grit then shoot your clear.
Downside: Slick Sand is expensive.
Downside: Slick Sand is expensive.
motorbreath
XS650 Addict
well i was going to go to dupont and just get whatever epoxy primer they have, cause i figured i was going to prime over the epoxy anyway, then shoot my base coat prolly 2 coats of white then mask then shot 3 coats of black, then sand with 600, then shoot clear, sand, clear, sand, and one more clear, also should i worry about sanding the underside of the rear fender?
Tech7
XS650 Junkie
I apologize, I should have said with PPG DP series epoxies.
PetesPonies
XS650 Addict
You gotta understand what primers are . . slick sand has a purpose. It isn't intended to be a DTM material. The only primer that is going to shrink is lacquer based primers. The epoxies and urethane primers aren't going to shrink as you say. Slick sand is like spraying body filler. It is a body filler ( polyester ) material. It is called polyester primer. It has its usages, but it is not everyone's answer to a primer 
Trust me.
Trust me.
Ghetto
Bob it!
I use PPG DP as well. Great primer.
PetesPonies
XS650 Addict
I'm making nothing on this . . but I challenge you to try Kirker epoxy. I believe you will use no other. I spray PPG color coats, but use Kicker epxoy.
motorbreath
XS650 Addict
so i could use regular epoxy primer, then i would use slick sand just cause that sound like the best way to go if its like a body filer since i could sand it
PetesPonies
XS650 Addict
Polyester primer isn't needed in most cases. It isn't something that is often used. I use it on fiberglass, because fiberglass has lots of imperfections. Its a good material to cover a Vette in, prior to serious blocking. But on a bike tins?? No way. Not needed. Typically people use urethane primer with builds fairly well and thus sands and blocks well. If you used Kirker epoxy, you could sand and block it. But if you use PPG epoxy, its just a coating on top of the metal, then urethane primer is typically used. Many urethane primers are DTM, ( and some polyesters are as well ), so you could do it all in urethane. That brings up another problem or concern . . isocyanates. very very dangerous. They are not pteent in epoxy. So why not just buy some Kirker and have the best of both worlds?? At least thats how I see it. Only draw back for you>?? Kirker is only sold in gallons.
1974jh5
Curmudgeon.
Agree there are a lot of good products out there. I used an OMNI 2K a while back which worked nicely. But, Slick Sand saves so much time on feathering, fixing pinholes, etc that for me it's worth every penny. Of course my tank had had some custom work done previously (the emblem mounts had been dinged in and filled, for instance) that not everyone will experience.
motorbreath
XS650 Addict
i think i might go with the kirker epoxy, so i use kirker i figure i should use there paint as well? stick with the same brand all the way through so there are no problems
